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Got out today in western Washington for a little long range shooting. I just got a load developed for my Mosin Nagant, it's re-barreled in 260 remington and shoots much better than I could have expected. I have to thank Benchmark Barrels for that! I'm taking it to a long range informal match next weekend (300-1200yds on steel) so I needed confirmed Dope. The thing was a hammer and the drop chart I printed off of the Lex Talus Delta IV program was within 1/4 MOA to 1100yds.. http://www.shoot-farther.com/My_Homepage_Files/Page12.html It was so beautiful we took some pics, thought some of you would enjoy them...

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My buddies Tikka 595 MS
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For any running a 260 rem here's the load data:

Remington Brass
CCI BR-2 primers
140gr Berger VLD's
43gr RL-17
.010" jump (about 2.975" OAL)
MV: 2775 fps

I may push the loads up hotter as this is a VERY low pressure load... but I'm going to leave it like this for the next few matches as the accuracy is excellent and I already have a corrected/confirmed drop chart.
 
So jealous.

so..1/4MOA @ 1100 is that roughly 11". Cause that's damn good if it is.
 
11" would be about 1 MOA.... 1/4 MOA is closer to 2.75" which is generally close enough... but I tweaked the BC degredation value in the ballistic program for that bullet and now my drop chart is perfect out to 1100yds (under that particular set of conditons). Here's my take on developing a drop chart...

http://www.shoot-farther.com/My_Homepage_Files/Page10.html

I'll hold of on giving specifics on the rifle's accuracy untill I get some groups on paper at long range.... here's a 300yd group with factory ammo.... suffice it to say my hand loads shoot significantly better!

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That's really cool.
I'd really like to build up a 500+ yard rifle.
Mentioned it to the wife and i got the same response that I always get..... *crickets*

Yeah, sorry bout the 1MOA vs 1/4MOA. I know what I meant but typed it wrong.
 
I think we've all been there.... my wife's not exactly a gun nut either. Most modern factory bolt rifles can perform well to 500yds + with good hand loads. The biggest difference between a 200yd hunting rifle and a 600yd hunting/long range practice rifle... is the scope. You need a good scope with repeatable adjustable turrets that can be "zeroed". Buying a scope may be easier for your wife to understand vs. building a long range rifle. Once you've pushed your factory rifle to the limits you could re-barrel and have the action trued. At that point you could easily be competitive at long range practical matches or F-class matches.
 
What's the story on those stocks? When I saw the initial photos of your Mosin, I thought that maybe it was some sort of older competition or training rifle, but the Tikka looks like it's a stock of the same manufacture.

I got out myself, and tried out the new range. It's a hike, for sure! All downhill to the targets and shooting stations, all uphill on the way out! Checked zero at 200yds and then went right for 800.
I don't have any data but speed for my current load, which is right about 2750fps. I used a canned 2600fps drop chart to get in the ballpark. It took two "hunt and peck" shots to get on, but I got a three shot group under 8" at 800. I know well enough to quit when I'm ahead :)
Now that I've got some data, I'm going to force balance a chart for this new load, and see how well it jives. This new range is cool, but it will be a while befroe I can post any pics. No intenet at the house anymore... suffice to say, it's challenging.
 
The stocks are factory (came with the rifles). My Nagant is just a modified M28/76 finnish target/training rifle (they were made by Sako in the 70's). My buddies rilfe is the Tikka 595 Master Sporter also modified and chambered in 6.5x47 Lapua. The stock designs are simular, both are finnish target rifles.

Nice rigs you guys have. What are the models and reticles of the scopes you are using?

My scope is the Nightforce NXS 3.5-15x50 with NPR-1 reticle and zero stop. I've used it on other rifles and really like it for long range practical shooting. My buddy's scope is a Nikon Monarc UUC target scope with a super fine reticle (1/8 moa clicks). He's had IOR's and Sightron SIII's on the rifle but he mostly uses it for target shooting (small groups on papper) so the scope fits that purpose well. His rilfe will generally put 5 shots into 1/2" or better at 300yds.
 
have you seen the Holland reticle? The crosshairs are split, mils on top and MOA on the bottom. The idea is that you can range as normal with the mils, check your correction, and then use the MOA graduations as hold-over. At first I didn't like it, but once I grasped the concept, it seems pretty slick.
 
God I need to get the Sendero and the 40x out and find out how bad I am at extreme range!!!
I've been looking for someplace close to the house to get 400 to 1000 yard targets with shooting stations fairly close. By that I mean close enough to shoot say 600 yards then decide to set the stuff on the back seat of the truck and in a short drive be at an 400 or 1000 yard spot or whatever. I would be happy if I could just find a real good 600 yard spot. So many logging roads so close together around here that it's tough to find an absolute safe area to set up.
 
Finding spots is very difficult. At first you're pretty picky about location and ease of setting up targets... before you know it you're willing to hike a ways just to shoot rocks! Our areas out here keep getting shut down and we have to go farther and farther east.


have you seen the Holland reticle? The crosshairs are split, mils on top and MOA on the bottom. The idea is that you can range as normal with the mils, check your correction, and then use the MOA graduations as hold-over. At first I didn't like it, but once I grasped the concept, it seems pretty slick.

I heard about it but haven't seen/used it myself. I have buddies who use Mils instead of MOA so it would be great to give quick corrections for both (I'm getting better at converting in my head). It seems like a good idea for guys who are very familiar with mils for ranging. I'm equally comfortable with ranging in MOA so it wouldn't benefit me personally...

I actually prefer ranging in MOA....Size of target in inches multiplied by 100 and divided by MOA taken up in reticle. The first step can always be done in your head so you only need to use the calculator for one solution.
 
Well, normally I'd skip a few heartbeats when seeing a hacked M28/76, but like I've said before this is one beautifully modified Mosin Nagant. You've done a good job.

I wasn't aware of a rifle like your buddy's. Is it a civilian version of the TakIV85? Regardless, bith are impressive.

This last weekend I zeroed a Russian 1pn34 NV scope to my stock Romanian PSL to 300 meters. Considering the reticule of the scope is not designed for precision shooting, shooting prone I was able to keep consistent 5-shot groups within 4-5" with 80s Czech surplus ammo. Not exactly 'long range', but I'm happy with it.

Keith
 
I'm sure there are a bunch of M28/76 fans who would shoot me on sight for what I've done to mine... I think many of the Finns would like to see an old M28/76 modified and actually used as a long range competition rifle in the face of all the new custom actions, McMillan stocks etc. I love all all the new stuff too (and have pleanty myself) but I beleive it should be more about marksmanship than the rifle used. I'd love to see a pic of your PSL w/scope. I thought about trying to get a correct era S&B scope for my M28... but it's tough to find and I need absolute precision and reliability from the optic. I just don't have experience with old scopes like that.
 
I try to outshoot my rifles as they are issued because as you say its more about the person than the rifle. If I was actually a good shooter, I'd worry about handloads, bedding, scopes etc, but for me its just not worth the effort. I suppose I compete against myself. I shoot mostly iron-sights anyway, so for me extreme accuracy reaches a point of diminishing terms rather quickly.

Here's a link to a thread on the NV scope I posted a few weeks ago. As big as the scope looks, its about half the weight of its counterpart, the US AN/PVS-2.

http://www.northwestfirearms.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25754&highlight=russian+night+vision

Keith
 
That makes sense to me. Thanks for the link.... that's a sweet setup! About once or twice a year my buddies and I do a shooting trip to the Moses Lake area... we camp out and burn up tons of ammo! You must have pleanty of opportunities if you've got a place out there.... jealous :cool:
 
Pardon the silly question....

I noticed you had a Karsten cheek piece on your rifle that is notched to clear the bolt. Is there there an advantage to doing that rather then mounting it further back? Does the notch affect cheek weld?

Nice rifle and a beautiful shootin' spot BTW.
 
That makes sense to me. Thanks for the link.... that's a sweet setup! About once or twice a year my buddies and I do a shooting trip to the Moses Lake area... we camp out and burn up tons of ammo! You must have pleanty of opportunities if you've got a place out there.... jealous :cool:

When you make it out this way, let us know. I'd like to see how the Finn shoots :) .

Keith
 
I'll try to remember and do that. I'm not sure when we'll go next.... last year we went in the fall... and it was COLD. Last time we met up with some local long range shooter's and we'll probably do the same next time. If you get out to the West side let me know...


Pardon the silly question....

I noticed you had a Karsten cheek piece on your rifle that is notched to clear the bolt. Is there there an advantage to doing that rather then mounting it further back? Does the notch affect cheek weld?

Nice rifle and a beautiful shootin' spot BTW.

I mount the cheek piece as far back as possible to get a good cheek weld and get proper eye relief in the scope. As long as you don't get carried away with the notching it won't hurt your cheek weld. If I mounted it farther back I would either sacrafice the cheek weld or have improper eye position with respect to scope's eye relief.
 
Thanks for your insight. I have one on a long action build and it seems too far back. The new stock is in the mail so I will have to give the notch a try.

What do you use for targets at long range and what is your procedure for spotting impacts?
 

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