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Hey everyone,

I built a 6.5 creedmoor chassis gun but am a complete novice when it comes to shooting past 100yds. I’ve done quite a bit of research but I’m finding myself frustrated before even getting to the range with trying to level my optic using different methods (plumb bob, framing levels, etc.) It would be hugely beneficial to learn from someone who knows what they are doing.

Any recommendations for good long range classes in Oregon or southern WA?
 

Certaindeaf

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Hey everyone,

I built a 6.5 creedmoor chassis gun but am a complete novice when it comes to shooting past 100yds. I’ve done quite a bit of research but I’m finding myself frustrated before even getting to the range with trying to level my optic using different methods (plumb bob, framing levels, etc.) It would be hugely beneficial to learn from someone who knows what they are doing.

Any recommendations for good long range classes in Oregon or southern WA?
Well, right about now most every range is doing sight in days in preparation for hunting season.
These sight in days generally allow the public at large access to the range at very reasonable prices.
Check out range websites near you to try to get out past 100 if necessary.
Also, mounting a scope with a cleaning jig/shooting sled/vice or even sandbags and bore sighting should work. Make sure the rifle is plumb and then plumb the scope.
 
Last Edited:
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Well, right about now most every range is doing sight in days in preparation for hunting season.
These sight in days generally allow the public at large access to the range at very reasonable prices.
Check out range websites near you to try to get out past 100 if necessary.
Also, mounting a scope with a cleaning jig/shooting sled/vice or even sandbags and bore sighting should work. Make sure the rifle is plumb and then plumb the scope.
I really appreciate the advice, thank you. I think my issue with scope and rifle cant is due to having a somewhat inaccurate pair of small levels used to level the rifle initially, and shooter induced cant once I enter the shooting position. The plumb bob method with a flashlight through the objective lens should be a foolproof method so it certainly is an error I’m creating with the rifle either prior to the optic leveling or when entering a shooting position.

I’ll take a look around at some of the ranges, having a bench and 100yd range to initially get on paper will be a great first step.
 

parallax

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plumb bob the scope and also the stock where your shoulder lives,match as a set.. there can be other variables to consider, is your rifle really seated exactly square in the butt stock?. if you have a rail system on your rifle is it really square with the receiver and stock?. just knowing the variables, and making considerations for them, gives you a leg up on many other shooters..after you get all that figured out buy one of those levels that monts on your scope and adjust it to match the scope and reciever with a plumb bob, for CANTING when you go shooting later.. I like putting a plum bob string out about 50 yards. to start all adjustments.
then when you get that all done , you get to play with
-ranging distance
-wind drift
-incline compensation
-tempature
-altitude
-spin drift
-breathing cycles
-heart beat ( as in shoot between heart beats)
-repeatabilty of shots ( is your ammo manufactured from the same lot number )
and 100 other things not listed here. LOL
 
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Certaindeaf

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I get the eye relief distance correct and then plumb the rifle with a short topedo level or the like on the butt.. you could fix it in place with tape etc. since you have already set/marked the relief, sandbag it and then align the vertical crosshair with a yonder plumb line etc.
Then after it's all cinched down, bore sight it since it's already on sandbags. 25 yards if that's available.
 
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Farther away, but HIGHLY recommended:

 
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Pahonix

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Does modern day do in person training? I only see online stuff.
 
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