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well i am just about done with my 300 blackout upper and i am gonna start loading up some test rounds.
i have h110 and i have 1680, mostly for now i am gonna be loading supersonics until next tax season when i can order my first suppressor.
i have formed 50 pieces of 223 and 50 5.56 for the blackout and i just ordered some 125gr nosler ballistic tips.
i am thinking of making some up with 17.5gr of h110, the nosler 125's and an overall length of 2.12 00
i am also gonna order a box of umc factory ammo to do the initial testing but i want to get started on loading too.

any info would be great.

as for the 300 blackout i am building here is a parts list of what i have together so far..
daniel defense stripped upper w/ dpms parts
vltor gunfighter charging handle medium
midwest industries SS series customizable tube ext carbine length
stoner 16" ultra-lite barrel w/dsa trident flashhider
yhm lo-pro clamp on gas block
dpms gas tube

all i need to finish is the bcg, most likely gonna be daniel defense. as for now it is wearing a leupold prismatic until i can figure out what optic i want to use.
 
There have been people that have tried it (see here), and the one I linked seems to be a decent enough starting point. The person that made the original post (HeyTrap) later clarified that these are used in his AR so there might be good hope with it. My only concern is that the AR sometimes has issues with round nose bullets and feeding properly so that might be something to pay attention to if you do develop this load.

But, to answer your question, you're not the only one that thought of loading those. As with any load, start low and work up ... good luck!
 
I loaded the 125gr Nos BT with 18.0 gr H110 and a OAL of 2.070"
I loaded the 200gr Nos Accubond with 11.0 gr H110 and a OAL of 2.115"

Both are reliable and accurate in my rifle. I haven't chrony'd either yet. Good luck.

Nate
 
alright thanks for the info, i will probably load some up at 18gr too.
gonna try a few rounds through my chronograph and a few rounds in a group.
i will post the results after i test them, it will probably be a couple weeks before i get out again though.
 
gonna try a few rounds through my chronograph and a few rounds in a group.


A guy at the range Monday was only able to put one round THROUGH his chronograph before it totally quit working. We all laughed and told him that he was supposed to shoot OVER the chronograph.:s0114:

This shooter was no amateur but someone that either held nearly every meaningful BR record at his home range and he was state champion several times. Even the experienced can have a "senior moment" and forget that extra 2 inches or so that needs to be taken into consideration when using a scope with a chronograph.
 
that happened to my roomate a couple weeks ago, he shot the chronograph twice within i think 3 shots. 1st shot was about a 7$ fix (bent the hell out of one of the bars). second shot was a 120$ fix (straight through the screen and circuit board).
luckfully he ordered a new one and i had it within a week.
now atleast we have a few spare parts for the new one, which is a good thing because next time i took it out i shot one of the bars too :rolleyes:
 
Anyone who hasn't shot a chronograph hasn't spent enough time with one.

With ARs you have to be particularly careful, because the line of sight is nearly 2" higher than the line of fire.
 
For rifle testing, I've just been mounting the gun in a lead sled to cut down on chrono-strikes. For pistol, the ransom rest is one of the best out there, but they're pricey and it's a PITA to mount the gun up, and load/reload it, However, pistol bullets are usually nice and big so you don't have to worry too much about it not being registered.

As far as the "plinker" bullet goes, I would personally tend to avoid it. I used to use this bullet in my .30 carbine and never liked it much, I always had problems with the lead getting caught on something while feeding in. What you might want to try instead are using the berry's 150gr flat-nose plated. If you're pushing them at moderate velocities ~1900FPS they should perform adequately as a "cheap-o" replacement for more expensive bullets. Last I checked, I think there are probably half a dozen companies that make the same bullet.
 
well i got the first ones loaded::


nosler 125gr ballistic tips
all loaded with h110 25 at 17.5gr and 25 at 18gr
wsr primers
cl -1.35 00, oal - 2.12 00
the cases are 5.56 formed to 300aac

i will post the results from the chronograph after i test them, probably still gonna be a couple weeks.
 
In my short experience loading for a 300 aac bko upper, i have found that long and pointy bullets work best. I tried a few Speer 130gr HP I got real cheap and where a bust, with numerous jams.

147gr FMJ are pretty cheap and with 18gr of H110 (1) you can get them to clock close to ~2075fps on a 16"bbl. Hornady's #3037 are very accurate and affordable.

If loading bullets w/o canelure, I recommend a Lee factory crimp die.


Notes:
1. Source for this load is the 300 Whisper Page http://www.quarterbore.com/300whisper/supersonic.html
 
well i am just about done with my 300 blackout upper and i am gonna start loading up some test rounds.
i have h110 and i have 1680, mostly for now i am gonna be loading supersonics until next tax season when i can order my first suppressor.
i have formed 50 pieces of 223 and 50 5.56 for the blackout and i just ordered some 125gr nosler ballistic tips.
i am thinking of making some up with 17.5gr of h110, the nosler 125's and an overall length of 2.12 00
i am also gonna order a box of umc factory ammo to do the initial testing but i want to get started on loading too.

any info would be great.

as for the 300 blackout i am building here is a parts list of what i have together so far..
daniel defense stripped upper w/ dpms parts
vltor gunfighter charging handle medium
midwest industries SS series customizable tube ext carbine length
stoner 16" ultra-lite barrel w/dsa trident flashhider
yhm lo-pro clamp on gas block
dpms gas tube

all i need to finish is the bcg, most likely gonna be daniel defense. as for now it is wearing a leupold prismatic until i can figure out what optic i want to use.

Lots of good info here: 300BlkTalk • Index page
 
My 300 Whisper (bolt gun) has a faster 1:8 twist for stabilizing the heavier 220 grain boat tail bullets. I tried several different light weight bullets in supersonic loadings and was very less than impressed with their accuracy. I figured the bullets were being overstabilized in the fast twist barrel. However the 220 Sierra HPBT matchkings over 11.0 grains of Accurate 1680 shot into one ragged 3/8" hole at 100 yards. They seem to tighten up just a scosh more with the suppressor installed too!

The Nosler 125 Ballistic tips would barely hold a 5 inch group at 100 yards.
Nosler 150 ballistic tips did a little better at about a 2 inch group.
Speer 200 grain spitzers did very well through the suppressor delivering consistant half to three quarter inch groups.
 
thanks for the info, the twist rate on my blackout is 1in8 as well, i will try some heavier loads too later but for now everything will be supersonic until i get a suppressor.
 
In my short experience loading for a 300 aac bko upper, i have found that long and pointy bullets work best. I tried a few Speer 130gr HP I got real cheap and where a bust, with numerous jams.

147gr FMJ are pretty cheap and with 18gr of H110 (1) you can get them to clock close to ~2075fps on a 16"bbl. Hornady's #3037 are very accurate and affordable.

If loading bullets w/o canelure, I recommend a Lee factory crimp die.


Notes:
1. Source for this load is the 300 Whisper Page Super-Sonic Loads


thanks for the data, i have the lee crimp die already, i get one for every caliber i load for.
 
Anyone who hasn't shot a chronograph hasn't spent enough time with one.

With ARs you have to be particularly careful, because the line of sight is nearly 2" higher than the line of fire.

A $20 laser bore sighter will cut down on almost all "Chrono Strikes". Put the weapon on a rest (bipod, sandbags, etc), secure it so it's on target, then with the bore sighter in place just set up the chronograph. The "dot" will tell you where the bullet will pass over the chrono. Not only cuts "strikes", it also speeds up the setup process making everyone else on the range happier;)

That $20 expense will save a lot of money and down time. For those that are using the folding box Shooting Chrony or any other brand that uses wire "bars", try using soda straws instead. Cut off a piece of welding rod the same size as the rods, about 2" long, and insert in sockets on the chrony. Put the soda straw over it and use them for guiding your shots over the box. If you have to use sky screens because it's too sunny, just repeat on the screens, using short metal pegs and attach to the soda straw at the top. It won't make any difference if the straw bows slightly. Keep plenty of straws handy and your'e golden as long as you don't aim too low:(:(
 

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