Loading for M1 Garand .30-06.....?

[Mikej]

What bullet would be suggested for this gun? I will be using PPU brass after I get rid (down the barrel) of the 150 gr bullets that are in them. Powder Valley has one day left in a, what looks pretty good to me, Sierra bullet sale. I'd grab 500 to have on hand.
Sierra .308 / 30 150 Grain Hollow Point Boat Tail MatchKing (500) – Powder Valley

Yea/Neah ?

Also I wouldn't mind a power recommendation. Something dependable, not quirky, etc. Something that meters well and is readily available preferably. I'm thinking it may be time to stock up on some rifle powders. I don't load for any long guns yet though, so I haven't tried rifle powders, but i don't want to get to the loading point and find bare shelves.

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[HighlandLofts]

For the M1 Garand keep it under 50,000PSI.

 

[JDAVIS]

150-168's and 4895. Hornady has a section in their manual for the garand typically

 

[crossbow5]

Hodgdon 4895, IMR 4895, IMR 4064 and Varget are the go to powders for the M1 Garand. I use Hodgdon 4895.

 

[Member 18201]

Hodgdon 4895, IMR 4895, IMR 4064 and Varget are the go to powders for the M1 Garand. I use Hodgdon 4895.

These as well as BLC-2, 748, and RL 15 have the proper burning rate for the M1.

IMR4895 and IMR 4064 are my favorites.

 

[Mikej]

150-168's and 4895. Hornady has a section in their manual for the garand typically

Hodgdon 4895, IMR 4895, IMR 4064 and Varget are the go to powders for the M1 Garand. I use Hodgdon 4895.

These as well as BLC-2, 748, and RL 15 have the proper burning rate for the M1.

IMR4895 and IMR 4064 are my favorites.

Three votes for IMR 4895 sounds good to me. Hopefully I can find it and buy a couple three pounds.

What about those projectiles? I figure on just staying with 150 grain. If that's what was the original used in The Garand then I would want to stay with that I believe. Is that a reasonable price? I don't NEED HPs, and if there was a lower priced quality bullet.....?

 

[ron]

I have loaded thousands of rounds for my M1s over the years. Typically IMR- 4895 or the slower IMR-4064. I have
found that IMR-4064 seems to e a little more accurate. As for bullet selection it is hard to beet the Sierra
168 SMK. My long time load for M1 is 46 gr of IMR-4064 and 168 SMK. LC Brass. 3.330" OAL A good
starting point. This is a light load. As always check load data you find on the web with published data.
My favorite load manual.

 

[Member 18201]

Three votes for IMR 4895 sounds good to me. Hopefully I can find it and buy a couple three pounds.

What about those projectiles? I figure on just staying with 150 grain. If that's what was the original used in The Garand then I would want to stay with that I believe. Is that a reasonable price? I don't NEED HPs, and if there was a lower priced quality bullet.....?

150 grain flat base bullets such as Hornady # 3031 will do fine. 47.0 of IMR 4895 is a good place to start.

I like 46.0 grains of IMR 4895 with the 168SMK. Some folks load as high as 47.5, but I have not seen any benefit.

I do not crimp any of the loads for the Garand.


Consult 2 or 3 current loading manuals before starting.

 

[Legion489]

As the rifle was designed for the 150 gr bullet and IMR 4895 (made in Canada, always was, always has been), I tend to stick with that and do not hot rod it in any way! Checked the price of rods lately?!

As an aside, John Garand did NOT invent the M1 rifle. A guy named Smedley invented it, hired John to help refine it, John stole the gas trap prototype and blue prints and took them to Springfield Armory. After the War (that's WWII to you!) Smedley sued the gov't and if you read the court docs, they were pissing their pants as he had them cold. They simply keep it in court until Smedley died and then covered it all up and buried it.

Sort of like the legend of "Carbine" Williams. He came up with the "idea" of the short stroke gas block, but had nothing to do with refining the idea or working on the M1 Carbine at Winchester, where he spent most of his time getting drunk and causing trouble. It was all a war effort hoax to improve moral.

 

[ron]

Oh ya. Make sure you properly seat the primers on military brass. You do not want a high primer that can result in a slam fire.
Chamber a round on your M1. Remove the round and see the dimple on the primer? CCI primers are a little harder than
Win. I have used both Win. ad CCI primers with equal success. I take an extra step after I swage the LC brass and use a primer pocket uni-former.
JC Garand Match. 200 yards slow fire prone. 100-9X 2 pasted 'sighters'

 

[Retired Guy]

If it's a rack M1 Garand, a match grade bullet may not make a difference.

I have two Garands and just shoot a generic 147-150 grain FMJBT. Lots of good powders out there and I use IMR 4064. The reloading manuals say 50.0 grains of 4064 duplicates GI Ball. Unless you have a specific need for it, I don't see a need to load my ammo to GI Ball specs. Paper doesn't know whether it's been hit at 2900 fps or 2600 fps. I have been using a few grains of powder less. It shoots well in my rifle, doesn't beat me up, and doesn't wear out my brass.

 

[gmerkt]

I cast my vote for IMR 4895 w/ 150 gr. bullet; IMR 4064 for 165-180 gr. bullet.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

4064

 

[Mikej]

First off.....All recommendations are fully checked on more than ONE reputable source...You guys are great. Thanks for ALL input! Three (strong) beers in, dinner, and I'll respond in the morning.

Thanks a bunch!

 

[MountainBear]

168gr Nosler Custom Comp with 4064...

 

[jeepguy88]

IMR-4064 and 168SMK

 

[Mikej]

150 grain flat base bullets such as Hornady # 3031 will do fine. 47.0 of IMR 4895 is a good place to start.

I like 46.0 grains of IMR 4895 with the 168SMK. Some folks load as high as 47.5, but I have not seen any benefit.

I do not crimp any of the loads for the Garand.


Consult 2 or 3 current loading manuals before starting.

Are flat base (non-boat tail) going to be a better choice than boat tail? I presume having a cannelure doesn't matter?

And yes, I cross reference other manuals and do not sit right down and load from info given on a discussion forum.

What I'm trying for is to get a deal, like free shipping, on a 500 lot. Bullets are priced what I feel is reasonable, but shipping can stab you pretty good. That why I was looking at the Sierra bullets with free shipping ending today.

 

[Mikej]

I have loaded thousands of rounds for my M1s over the years. Typically IMR- 4895 or the slower IMR-4064. I have
found that IMR-4064 seems to e a little more accurate. As for bullet selection it is hard to beet the Sierra
168 SMK. My long time load for M1 is 46 gr of IMR-4064 and 168 SMK. LC Brass. 3.330" OAL A good
starting point. This is a light load. As always check load data you find on the web with published data.
My favorite load manual.
View attachment 623738

I think I'll pick up one of these manuals for .30 06. I've heard they are among the best.

Do you mean Sierra "TMK" bullet? Tipped Match King?

 

[ron]

SMK= Sierra Match King. I have experimented with some TMKs and have not been able to get them to shoot as accurate.
The 168 SMK is a close copy of the military's 172 match bullets. Except the 168 SMKs work a little better.
Hornady 168 match are a little cheaper and do work almost as well as the Sierras.

 

[Mikej]

If it's a rack M1 Garand, a match grade bullet may not make a difference.

I have two Garands and just shoot a generic 147-150 grain FMJBT. Lots of good powders out there and I use IMR 4064. The reloading manuals say 50.0 grains of 4064 duplicates GI Ball. Unless you have a specific need for it, I don't see a need to load my ammo to GI Ball specs. Paper doesn't know whether it's been hit at 2900 fps or 2600 fps. I have been using a few grains of powder less. It shoots well in my rifle, doesn't beat me up, and doesn't wear out my brass.

Not sure how my rifle would compare to CMPs grading system. I posted this thread when I got the rifle.

Today's acquisition from the OAC show.....

Winchester receiver and Springfield barrel. Apparently the other parts are Italian, Breda Meccanica Bresciano, and manufactured early to mid 1950s. Throat and muzzle measures 2 and barely 2. Put together with a repro beach stock by a gentleman member of the OAC that is arguably a Garand pro...

www.northwestfirearms.com

From what I know measuring 2 and almost 2 is pretty good. I've had it out and seem to be getting, if I do my part, about 2" at 75 yds.