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little help on reloading 30-06

Discussion in 'Ammunition & Reloading' started by desert_fox, Sep 24, 2010.

  1. desert_fox

    desert_fox Lake Stevens New Member

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    Hi everyone,
    I know there are many expert reloaders here. I just begin to reload my own ammo. I am new to this and dont know any good recipe for 30-06. If this is not a rude question, can anyone suggest me some good data?

    I have a 1:10 twist Sako 30-06 with Zeiss 3x9-40 scope. I just cant get a 2-inch group at 100 yards. I brought it new and it was guaranteed by the manufacturer to hit MOA. the bullets I used was loaded for my friend's Steyr Model M. They performed well on his rifle but not mine, so I want ask if anyone will be kind enough to give me a direction (here or PM) in power and bullet weight. I have IMR 4895 and 165 Barnes TSX on hand now and plan to buy 168 Nosler NBT soon.

    thanks everyone
     
  2. salmonriverjohn

    salmonriverjohn N.W Oregon coast, Gods country Well-Known Member

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    For my .06 using 165 gr. I use 57 Gr's. of IMR 4831. Your friends ammo was probably loaded with a die that was set for his rifle. Pick up a good reloading manual if you don't already have one. Speer has good info on all commercial calibers. There is a jump point when the bullet leaves the cartridge and then contacts the lans and grooves, there is a process for adjusting your bullet seating depth to minimise this jump. Sooting the bullet of a UNPRIMED and UNCHARGED cartridge then inserting into the bore and closing the bolt will show if you have contacted the rifling. Adjust your die until you have no sign of contact. PLEASE read then read again your reloading manual first regarding this technique, and remember after you have set yours to match your rifle that its set up for YOUR rifle and may not be safe to hand out to others with the same caliber. Good luck and happy shooting,, John.
     
  3. giddyupgo55

    giddyupgo55 Vernonia Active Member

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    Not using 168 gr. but I have had good results using 180 gr. Sierra SPBT ahead of 57.7 grains of IMR4831 as long as I do my part.
     
  4. AMProducts

    AMProducts Maple Valley, WA Jerk, Ammo Manufacturer Silver Supporter

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    That gun should deliver that accuracy with factory ammo.

    What I would suggest with those bullets is trying a minimum load. Typically, accuracy is inversely proportional to velocity. Finding the right balance is the most important aspect of it.

    I've found the barnes TSX bullets to be very accurate in my .308, I also like the barnes MPG frangible bullets. I also have a 1:10 twist.

    I would suggest moving towards a heavier bullet, the sierra 190gr matchking might be a good fit, your barrel has a pretty tight twist for a .30-06, so the heavier bullet weight will slow down the bullets and let you get more out of that twist. I am willing to bet you are driving the lighter all copper bullets too fast, and with that they are over-stabilized, which can result in precession.

    These are all really complex topics which have been discussed ad nausium by others, but to simplify everything... try using heavy bullets in the 2600-2800FPS range. Most .30-06 factory ammo is loaded in this range with 180gr bullets.

    Hope that helps, and keep us informed.
     
  5. desert_fox

    desert_fox Lake Stevens New Member

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    thanks for the advises. Now it makes sense. AMProducts was right, I indeed loaded my 165 Barnes TSX and Nosler NBT with 48.7 gr. IMR 4895 powder. I think I may want to try reduce the powder to 47 and 46 gr. and see how they perform.

    thanks
     
  6. SAR1846

    SAR1846 Oregon Member

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    I've found that each rifle tends to prefer its own load development. What might work well for his, doesn't necessarily work well for yours. Seems like that's a pretty stout load for 165gr.

    Echo'ing everyone elses advice... Reference several books/manuals (a lot of them are online). For hunting, I've used 4350 with 180gr with good results.
     
  7. AMProducts

    AMProducts Maple Valley, WA Jerk, Ammo Manufacturer Silver Supporter

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    4350 is a great powder for any of the larger cased rounds, I have used it a lot in .303 brit, .30-06, and .30-40 krag. It works pretty good in these guns. It's somewhat sub optimal in .303 brit, and in .308 (in fact, ignore any loads you see using 4350 in .308).

    IMR3031, Varget, and IMR4895 will all serve you very well in this caliber. Varget has the advantage of being very tolerant of temperature variations. It is also hot enough to light tracer ammunition with good reliability.

    You can also check out some of the ball powders, however, I don't think they will perform as well for you in this caliber as the IMR type stick powders. I seem to remember someone using winchester 748 with good results. Other than metering issues in progressive presses, there is no reason not to use IMR powders.
     
  8. orygun

    orygun West Linn Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    I've seen here what I think is very good advice.
    First I think you should buy some boxes of factory ammo to see if there are any other problems to work out. Maybe your friends reloads were just not a match to your gun's chamber.
    Then try some handloads.
    My preference is a 180gr bullet, although I've given much thought to working up loads with 168 and 150gr bullets.
    I shoot either Nosler Partition or Ballistic Tip 180s over 59.5gr of RL22. The Nosler manual shows a max of 61gr but that's a little hot for my gun even though I seat the bullet at a longer overall length than they recommend. (but it's still not touching the lands) Seating them "long" and not touching the lands should drop pressures....
    My loads clock about 2700fps out of either of my Ruger 77 MKIIs. Both of these loads will shoot 3/4" @ 100 yards out of either gun when I'm doing my part. The strange part is, one of these guns will shoot a 3/16" group with factory Remington 150gr bullets. Both of these guns have a 1 in 10" twist.
    I know this isn't the powder that you asked about. I've used 4895 and have no complaints, but decided on a RL22 for now.
    The moral of my story, here's my deer and elk hunting loads. Max in the manual is too hot for the guns I've developed them in. Do NOT start at max loads. Start on the bottom end (but no lower) and work up towards max. Be very cautious. Have fun experimenting!:thumbup:
     
  9. BIG_GUNNUT

    BIG_GUNNUT North Central Oregon Active Member

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    Sometimes seating bullets longer than the manual says can cause it's own problems. Try shooting Weatherby factory ammo in a non-Weatherby cut chamber and see what happens. Not enough freebore (jump to the lands) and you get excessive pressures.
     
  10. desert_fox

    desert_fox Lake Stevens New Member

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    Also, I want to ask if anyone has the reloading min-max for 165 Barnes tsx. I have the IMR 4895, but I dont have the Barnes reloading manual. If anyone have it please let me know

    Thanks
    Hayden
     
  11. orygun

    orygun West Linn Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    The Barnes manual I have is just a little too old to include the TSX.

    What it does have is two sections, one for coated bullets and one for those that are not coated.
    These 30-06 loads are generated in a Winchester case with a Federal GM 210M primer. In my experience, the Winchester case holds a bit more than the Remington cases.
    168gr XFB, XBT and Solid (non coated bullets)
    IMR4895 43.5 min to 47.5 Max
    The TSX is suppose to generate less pressure than the other non coated bullets, but I'd be very cautious about approaching Max.

    Hopefully someone else will have the manual you need.
     
  12. Taurus 617 CCW

    Taurus 617 CCW Northern Idaho Member

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    Best thing you can do is pick up a reloading guide. In there you will find min and max loads. I use the Nosler reloading guide for my 30-06 and the book is reasonably priced.
     
  13. orygun

    orygun West Linn Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    But if you're going to shoot Barnes bullets, make sure you pick up a Barnes manual. The loading data for Barnes bullets is not at all typical and trying to "fudge" with Nosler, Speer, Hornady, etc. data could very well get you into trouble quickly!
     
  14. AMProducts

    AMProducts Maple Valley, WA Jerk, Ammo Manufacturer Silver Supporter

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    You don't necessarily need to buy a new manual, barnes has conviniently placed their load information on the website:

    Load Data | Barnes Bullets
     
  15. mortre

    mortre Yelm, WA Active Member

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    I can't speak specifically on the 30-06, but I was able to get some of my best accuracy out of my 1-10 twist 300 WM with a reduced load of H4895 behind a barnes 168 TTSX at '06 velocities.
     
  16. usmc

    usmc oregon Active Member

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    i have a winchester model 70 30-06 24inch barrel,my hand loads are 52 grains of IMR 4064 with 165 g barnes, or hornady. i can put a dime size group at 100 yards, fairly easily, and with a bit more effort even smaller. quite surprising out of a factory gun.
     
  17. usmc

    usmc oregon Active Member

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    i have a winchester model 70 30-06 24inch barrel,my hand loads are 52 grains of IMR 4064 with 165 g barnes, or hornady. its traveling roughly 2850. i can put a dime size group at 100 yards, fairly easily, and with a bit more effort even smaller. quite surprising out of a factory gun.
     
  18. Douglas

    Douglas Oregon Active Member

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    I would recommend checking out
    Handloads.com they have a collection of information. Also, welcome to reloading, lots of fun.
     
  19. desert_fox

    desert_fox Lake Stevens New Member

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    Thanks guys! I just found the right load! 45.5 grains of IMR 4895 for 165 Barnes TSX. The result is pretty impressive. I am able to put them in the same hole!

    On an unrelated topic, does anyone know anybody can help me fill up the thumbhole on my HK SL8 rifle? I want to have an extra California Legal stock, so I can bring it to California for rabbit hunting.

    Thanks
     
  20. Shooter98

    Shooter98 McMinnville, Or. Member

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    47 grains of IMR 4350 with Sieera 180 gr. bthp give me almost same hole accuracy at 100 yards and less than 1/4" at 200 yards. CCI 200 primers, winchester brass.