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I own a S&W model 19-3 revolver that I reload for. I go as often as I can to the range to test out my recipes. For the last couple of months, I have been getting the occasional misfire due to light strikes on the primer. I am using CCI 500 brand primers. I know they are light strikes because each time, after waiting a half minute, I open the cylinder, rotate 1 position clockwise, close the cylinder, and fire again. Each time the round goes off as expected. This happens maybe once every 100 to 200 rounds.

I would provide pictures but I keep forgetting to save the round that misfired. I remember each showing a less than definite depression in the primer. On the second try, after a successful firing, firing pin depression is much more definite.

Obviously, I will be taking my gun to my gunsmith. What do you think my gunsmith will tell me? Should I be getting a new firing pin? Is it a contamination issue? Is it a wear issue?
 
Have you fired any other rounds besides your reloads out of the revolver? What were the results?

The top two issues that I would first suspect (as a someone who is not a gunsmith) is
1. Hard primers. Sometimes the batches come out tough
2. Weak hammer spring.

If it's an older revolver and you've tried other brands of ammunition but still have FTF then I'd swap out the hammer spring and see what happens.

Good luck!
 
Check the "strain screw" on the lower edge of the front strap (grip frame). They can work loose and they release tension on the hammer spring. They are gauged so as to provide correct spring tension when tightened. Otherwise, Wolff has replacements in lower, standard and higher rates.
 
Back in the day, a "poor man's trigger job" was done by turning the strain screw out a turn or two. It certainly lightened the trigger, but at a cost in reliability.

Otherwise, on Smiths, if the firing pin is free to move slightly - as intended - in the hammer, and the tip is not shortened or damaged, the mainspring is the first place to look. Make certain also that decades old lube has not congealed at the hammer pivot and the hammer is also free to move.

One other thing: are all primer strikes centered on the primers? If not, it would likely be a timing issue.
 
The other guys got it right to check the screw in the grip first. A LOT of guns come in with a loosened screw. Yes it lightens the trigger pull but it also affects the hammer fall as in it has less force behind it. A new spring might be in order as well. You mentioned CCI primers, in my experience CCI primers are some of the hardest primers out there. I know of several spring kits to lighten the trigger pull that recommend you use Federal primers and not CCI due to their hardness. Also, not to be the IT guy that asks "is it plugged in" lol but make sure it is clean inside. We have fixed many of these problems just by a good cleaning... just my 2 cents ;)
 
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Everyone above is leading down the right path. Almost all competitive revolvers shooters use Federal primers as they are the easiest to set off. However, if this is just a plinking - test gun, there is no reason to lighten the action and a factory-tuned Smith revolver should still set off CCI's.
 
If the strain screw has been loosened or shows any sign of grinding, then that should be addressed. Either tightened or replaced.
But the loose or altered screw can also cause issues with the mainspring that necessitate replacement. Common is a spring that has knuckled. This can often be the cause of light strikes, even after the strain screw is tightened.
 
I own a S&W model 19-3 revolver that I reload for. I go as often as I can to the range to test out my recipes. For the last couple of months, I have been getting the occasional misfire due to light strikes on the primer. I am using CCI 500 brand primers. I know they are light strikes because each time, after waiting a half minute, I open the cylinder, rotate 1 position clockwise, close the cylinder, and fire again. Each time the round goes off as expected. This happens maybe once every 100 to 200 rounds.

I would provide pictures but I keep forgetting to save the round that misfired. I remember each showing a less than definite depression in the primer. On the second try, after a successful firing, firing pin depression is much more definite.

Obviously, I will be taking my gun to my gunsmith. What do you think my gunsmith will tell me? Should I be getting a new firing pin? Is it a contamination issue? Is it a wear issue?
I have a very good stock of Smith and Wesson parts including the Hammer Spring you need, as well as many others parts. And I am Selling these at Cost, if anyone is interested, Please send me a PM. I would be happy to Sell off my entire Stock to the right buyer. Several Items would be give at No cost. :):):)

I'm headed for bed and will be back in the morning, so don't expect a quick reply. I will reply in the order that I receive your replies, so... I will hold out a correct Hammer Spring for the OP. I will also be placing an ad with an email address for those requesting prices.:):):)
 
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I would like to thank everyone for their great suggestions. This is a very valuable forum.

I've decided to change my brand of primers before I attempt to tinker with my strain screw. My trigger is well tuned and is just the way I like it.
 
Bear in mind if you are reloading, you may also have a primer that is seated lower in the case. I also have purchased S&W K frames that someone has bought an aftermarket main spring that is supposed to make the trigger lighter. After having many light strikes, I replaced it with a factory and solved the problem. I also had one I bought that was light striking and I found that someone had ground down the strain screw so they could turn it all the way in and still get the result they wanted. Turned out they ground "too much" and when I replace it the gun fired every time. Of course if you have "never" had the side plate off and completely cleaned the handgun, that would be something you might consider. I wish you good luck.
 
Like everyone said strain screw. :D It seems your a little reluctant to dive
into your Smith?:oops: I don't know your experience with guns sorry if this sounds
condescending. But whenever you use a flat blade screw driver make sure they
are the no taper type and proper fit. Otherwise you can bugger up the screw
heads.:eek::eek::eek: Pull off the grips and check the strain screw and all side plate
screws are snug. I do a complete tear down and cleaning every year or about
500 rounds.
https://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=screwdriver+sets&ksubmit=y&f_a=1
 
The Brownells sets absolutely excellent and you can purchase just a single screwdriver or a Very complete set, including special holders or boxes. A great deal of pressure can be applied using the right combination of tools. And the best part is they have a life time warranty. Except, for having then stop by and do the work for you, what more can you expect?:):):)
 

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