Diamond cutoff wheels have existed for probably 100 years.Willing to bet I can cut into a safe in minutes. These guys were rookies using an angle grinder.
As a plumber, I use these Sawzall blades for cutting cast iron pipe. Being they cut through cast iron, it will cut through carbon steel like a hot knife through cow.
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Yes sir, I've used them many times for cutting cast iron, along with diamond infused Sawzall blades. They took forever to cut cast iron pipe but did work.
This gets beat up good every so often, a few saying the only safe worth having is one a small bank would use. Sounds great but VERY few are going to buy something like that. So as with having a gun, ANY safe beats no safe. After someone gets one putting it somewhere its not easily seen is also a great idea if possible. Bolting it down of course too. The whole idea is make your stuff a little harder to mess with. Alarm systems are now cheap enough anyone can have one too. One more layers of making your stuff a little harder to get.
I haven't participated much in the open forum over the years I've been here. It's been hit and miss So, I missed those conversations.
One of the things that I find fascinating about all this is that an actual real, honest to goodness, "SAFE"...say, a TL30 rated safe...will likely weigh several thousand pounds and likely cost in the tens of thousands of dollars...and that safe is only designed to withstand a 30 minute attack from a knowledgeable thief with some power tools. THIRTY MINUTES is what all that money is buying you.
No. That's an oversimplification and is NOT reality.
Probably about the same as someone breaking into safe with a die grinder. Storage places use 4 1/2" angle grinders, faster than bolt cutters with a cutoff wheel. A friend of mine restores safes, if he gets one without a combination, he cuts a hole in the back and removes the door cover and removes the lock from the inside. Then welds the removed section back in place.
If you're over a wood floor you're going to have to add some backing under the subfloor unless you're super lucky and the holes in your safe line up with the floor joists which can be on 12", 16", 19.5", or 24" centers.
On one of mine it was too hard to get under the house where that part of the floor is. So just used some butterfly type deals. Drilled the holes, no stud, so poked them in. To yank out the safe they would have to rip out a good section of the sub-floor. On the other one it was over the basement so that one was easy to find where the lags came through. Ran them into a piece of 4x4 from the basement. As with all things safe, anything beats nothing. Bolt it down best you can. The whole idea is make your stuff a little harder to get than the neighbors. Then add things like an alarm system.
