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My safes have very little in them, mostly just paperwork and ammo. They exist to keep an unlucky intruder busy, the good stuff is concealed
 
25+ years ago, A friend and I decided to build our own safes. We talked with a safe retailer who had a security business and he recommended what brand of safe to copy, and gave us access to one so we could take measurements.
We both worked for a large fabrication company with a press brake operator who did fantastic work, and arranged with the company for him to shear and bend the shell (back, sides, and front edges) and we fabbed everything else. My home barn (shop?) has a 1 ton crane in it which made everything a lot easier. Our copies had heavier steel for the doors and shells than the one we copied.
We figured that if we were going through the trouble, we might as well build a couple more and sell them, which we did, and that paid for the materials for ours plus a bit for our labor.
edited to add : My friend bolted his to the garage floor, as did the guys we sold the other the ones to. Mine is bolted through the stout floor and into the 4x 10 floor joists on the second floor. Don't ask how I got it up there..
 
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nosbocaj said:
What's the best method for bolting to concrete?
Wedge anchors
448062.1280.1280__90368.1579794151.386.513.jpg?c=1.jpg

or Titens
69_0__61021.1570444610.1280.1280__38379.1579794003.jpg

Those are the two primary methods used in construction to anchor to concrete.
Titens are a little trickier to install (read impact wrench) but if you think that you might move the safe, you can back out the Titens.
Remember that you probably have a 4" slab. Best not to penetrate through (read water).
 
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Securing to the Floor is just a mechanical enhancement to a good Safe ..
Everyone one needs at Minimum a stand alone security cam even a mini battery powered video
Surveillance or Hunting cam 🛰️
 
Its all about how much you can spend, but its good to know what a true "burglar rated" safe is. I was still impressed it took them just over an hour to get into the Liberty safe even after tipping it over.
Willing to bet I can cut into a safe in minutes. These guys were rookies using an angle grinder.

As a plumber, I use these Sawzall blades for cutting cast iron pipe. Being they cut through cast iron, it will cut through carbon steel like a hot knife through cow 💩.

1000011369.jpg
 
nosbocaj said:

Wedge anchors
View attachment 1983459

or Titens
View attachment 1983460

Those are the two primary methods used in construction to anchor to concrete.
Titens are a little trickier to install (read impact wrench) but if you think that you might move the safe, you can back out the Titens.
Remember that you probably have a 4" slab. Best not to penetrate through (read water).
It is really easy to over torque the Titen screws using an impact gun, causing the hole to strip out. Every commercial job site I've worked on always required the use of concrete Wedge anchors.

If I was bolting something heavy to a concrete floor, I'd use at minimum 1/2" Wedge anchors. I'm not going to trust a screw but that's me.
 

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