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You mean you can't get the base unscrewed to get the tool in?
You can soak it in pretty much anything, they're well made. Try Hoppes overnight, you could also heat it up. You are putting the wrench in a vice, right?
When you do get it free, expect the core to be just as hard to remove. Make sure to use a rubber mallet or deadblow hammer to drive the core out.
Been there, done that, have a Liberty Essence which isn't much different.

I also just bought and am waiting on the form 3 transfer for my Mystic X.

And considering the crap necessary to go through cleaning them, I'm CERTAINLY investing in a large sonic cleaner. I need one for brass anyway. That'd likely solve all your problems with it in the future.

Liberty, IIRC, will take it apart and clean it if it's stuck. Not sure of the price.
 
No I can get the tool into the baffle stack, I just can't get the stainless monocore out of the tube, maybe tonight I can get some of that oil working on it :) I have a large tumbler, I think the core will fit in it and I will just stainless pin tumble it clean, should work great!
 
PB Blaster. works way, way better than liquid wrench or WD-40 Available at True Value and others.
Best break free on the market.
The amount that PB works better than WD-40 and Liquid Wrench. Is how much better Kroil works over PB Blaster. For rusted on and heat cycled exhaust parts or anything Kroil is second to none. And this coming from a PB Blaster fan. Dad and I keep both around for working on International Trucks. PB is usually much cheaper then Kroil.
 
No I can get the tool into the baffle stack, I just can't get the stainless monocore out of the tube, maybe tonight I can get some of that oil working on it :) I have a large tumbler, I think the core will fit in it and I will just stainless pin tumble it clean, should work great!

I'm not sure I'd do that were I you. That titanium tube (I'm guessing yours is titanium?) isn't that thick and I don't think any media will make it between the core and the tube --it's a tight fit already. When they seize, it's the microscopic stuff between the core and the tube, not detritus clogging up the baffles. I just disassembled one last night, an Essence but very close in design, and found that tetra gun blaster worked pretty well on dissolving all the residue. But I didn't let it seize either. I did one time and it was a pain to get out, but the deadblow hammer did it.

I still think a sonic cleaner would work best, I've heard of a LOT of people over on the 'Hide that use 'em and they swear by 'em. Good for cleaning sealed cans too.

Liberty WILL take it apart and clean it for you, it's in their literature. So I suppose this happens from time to time. Be careful, because these suppressors CAN seize (in the literal sense) and you HAVE to send it to them unless you know what you're doing.

Have you called Liberty BTW and asked what they suggested?

How many rounds did you go before cleaning it? Much .22? Curious so I don't have to go through this with mine.

I can tell you that an Essence firing only .22lr will be VERY easy to take apart and clean after 100-200rds. or more IF you rub the entire core down with grease --that really helps. I just use whatever I have at hand, some kind of gun grease. But if I leave it dry and let it go for the same time or a little longer, it's a mother to take apart.
 
Ow thousands of 22lr and Probally 500 9mm and 5.56 each, I'll update after next attempt to take apart, and I was talking of tumbling just the stainless core not the core in the tube :)

!!!THAT many rounds!!! No wonder it's seized! Wow!

I don't get it then --oh, wait, I do. You intend on cleaning the core in the tumbler AFTER you figure out how to get it apart, right?

The sonic cleaner should do both. I understand you don't even need to take them apart if using them. And Liberty uses materials that will hold up to some pretty nasty solvents, including acetone and such.

You REALLY need to call Liberty if you haven't already and ask them what they would do. With that many rounds, I hate to say but you may have seized can. Liberty recommends cleaning .22 residue out (of the Essence anyway --still don't have my Mystic X) after no more than a few hundred rounds.

If you clean your take aparts often, they are VERY easy to clean --literally blast away the crap on the core, blast out as much as you can out of the tube, then use a brush (I use a .50BMG chamber brush for the .22 can, fits perfect) and that's it. If you can't find a proper brush to fit, look at a homebrew store, they have all sorts of sizes but they won't be as stiff.

BTW, it's the .22 that got you. If you fire jacketed center fire ammo out of that can, it won't get nearly as dirty and you won't even really need to clean it. And if you did, again, the sonic cleaner will do it.

I heard Harbor Freight (buy at your own discretion there) has cheap sonic cleaners. That would at least serve your use, and they are GREAT for brass.

I'll shut up about sonic cleaners now.
 
Loctite Nickle Anti-Seize, look no further.

41FU-y5nB5L.jpg
 
Loctite Nickle Anti-Seize, look no further.

View attachment 134529

Okay, I called Liberty for you. Here's what they said:

If you send a seized can to them, they'll find a container big enough to hold it and fill that with Kroil and soak it for 24hrs. Then they'll put the bar in it and slam it on a table or use a deadblow hammer to remove the core. If using a hammer, make sure not to let the core fall out with the bar attached or it could break.

This is what they will do in their shop if you send it in. They said it generally works all the time.

So there you go, you can DIY it or send it in and let them do it.

She also said that IF the Kroil doesn't cut it right away, then try firing a few 9mm through it to warm it up after soaking (and I'm sure rinsing) and that sometimes expands it enough to make it come free. I've done this before myself.

She did say that the owner doesn't recommend sonic cleaners in general because the titanium can't hold up to some of the solutions they use (I didn't take this into account). But there are solutions you can use in them like perhaps the Kroil. Vinegar and hydrogen peroxide mix will also dissolve the lead, but create lead acetate, which is skin soluble. Be VERY careful if you use that for a dip and wear gloves and dispose properly.

She said in the future to clean it more often and best if you just clean it when you clean your weapon. I do this a lot now and it really is easier to clean --Tetra gun blaster and a brush and ten minutes and it's good to go.

Good luck, as that's about as much as I can offer.
 
Well for all those interested and i know you are all interested! The can is apart! A little kroil oil, let it sit for 10 minutes or so and then put the push out pipe on the end and beat the living bubblegum out of it on the cement floor :) Moved it about 1/8 per hit, which means it took a lot of hits! Going to need a bit bigger brass brush to clean it all up then the stuff in my gun cleaning kit but it is apart!

Really not that dirty on the inside, just some lead buildup where the monocore did not touch the outer tube, that caused a lot of difficulty getting it off, I did have some nickle neverseaze on the core before but after I clean it up I will use a lot more this next time.

Steven
 
22lr is what got you. vaporized lead condenses on the metal surfaces and welds the surfaces together.

too much lead and you will destroy your suppressor.

if you shoot 22lr you should clean it after every couple hundred rounds. you should be able to use the dip on a mystic.
 

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