JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
I use Hoppe's #9 for general cleaning. Hoppe's is an old standard and it still works like a champ.
(Note: Test it on the finish before you wipe it down. Some finishes are delicate.
I use aerosol brake or carb cleaner to spray out hard to reach areas because it evaporates. I use Tetra Lube and Tetra Grease for lubricants; the grease for Summer and the Lube for Winter.
After the gun is cleaned and ready I wipe it down with a spray of G-96, a product I found about ten years ago for wiping down and protecting the metal.

I use Q-Tips rather than the gun swabs they sell because they're much cheaper. I also buy craft store type pipe cleaners because, again they're cheaper than the gun ones. They're excellent for cleaning rails and hard to reach places.

I buy patches in bulk and only use the cotton T-shirt type material. I never liked the synthetic sort of paper-y ones.

Use Bronze or synthetic brushes where possible and avoid steel if you can.

As you gain more experience, the process will speed up and become natural.

Enjoy, have fun and be safe. :)

P.S. I generally clean my guns right after using them, but if there's a bit of lag time I don't worry. I also never shoot corrosive ammo.
 
If you have a Glock, top rack of the Dishwasher.


Scroll down to the Accessories and Maintenance section, a number of threads and good info at your fingertips.

Northwest Firearms - Oregon, Washington, and Idaho Gun Owners

Example Thread:
Lets talk gun cleaning! How do you clean your guns, and why?

Aarrggg I tried looking through old threads.... didn't realize there was an entire section for it. Sorry... I should have explored a little more.

Although finding answers in only threads takes opportunities away from @Stomper:D
 
After about 300-ish rounds or a long day of shooting, here's my cleaning regimine that takes about 5 minutes per rifle or pistol (should sound familiar to some):

-Stick a Lucas Bore Guide in the chamber (if cleaning a rifle)
-1 Wet patch with Sweets 7.62
-5 strokes with nylon brush wet with Butches Bore Shine.
-1 Wet patch with Butches Bore shine.
-3 dry patches.
-Spin a chamber mop (pick one slightly larger than the brass case) in the chamber damp with a shot of brake cleaner on the mop.
-Spin a dry patch or small chamber mop (slightly larger than the caliber) on the crown.
-Spin another chamber mop slightly damp with KG 4 Gun Oil to lube the chamber.
-1 Wet patch saturated with Lock-Ease Graphite lock fluid (protects and simulates a fouling shot on rifle)
-Stick it in the safe.

Done
 
Last Edited:
Wil Schuemann taught me not to use solvent in my pistol barrels, unless there's lead involved, then I use CLP...haven't shot lead in so long it's a non issue. I use a heavy nylon 50cal bore brush, 10-20 swipes makes it hard to tell if it had been shot.

Pistols get cleaned about every 400-500 rounds, rifles about the same.
 
If they stop working they might get some Trans fluid and a rag. other than that they all seem to be just fine dirty.
Only ever had to do this once with a 1911, I have a Glock that's pushing 10+k rounds and it still runs just fine never being cleaned.
 
If they stop working they might get some Trans fluid and a rag. other than that they all seem to be just fine dirty.
Only ever had to do this once with a 1911, I have a Glock that's pushing 10+k rounds and it still runs just fine never being cleaned.

+1
I've seen more barrels and crowns ruined on high $$ rigs from guys OCD'n & ADD'n out and improperly cleaning their "babies" trying to get all the copper out of them. Just shoot them and have fun with them. Keep them dry and oil them if storing for a while. Simple.
 
I use the Otis Elite cleaning kit that I bought at Cabela's years ago. I bought some O-85 Ultra bore cleaner that are 8ozs each. I believe that product is no longer available since they reformulated to Otis BIO-CLP. The Otis round swabs are are available from numerous places so they easily replaceable. I still have an old style cleaning kit for my shotgun and pistols have a few bottles CLP for that.
 
Too many different opinions and too many different ways to clean. Most of the time, what ever is used or the way it is used won't show up as being good or bad for 50 years or so. I stick with name brand solvents and materials, clean until it's clean, add a little gun oil where needed and then wipe it down real good. Then I try to get it dirty again as soon as I can afterwards. Most of my guns outlasted one or more person before me and they will probably all outlast me... although I hope to give them a good run for the money. :D

Mike
 
Too many different opinions and too many different ways to clean. Most of the time, what ever is used or the way it is used won't show up as being good or bad for 50 years or so. I stick with name brand solvents and materials, clean until it's clean, add a little gun oil where needed and then wipe it down real good. Then I try to get it dirty again as soon as I can afterwards. Most of my guns outlasted one or more person before me and they will probably all outlast me... although I hope to give them a good run for the money. :D

Mike
Great post.
 
I use an Otis pull cord or short brads rod. I'll usually run some CLP and let pieces soak. Then I'll scrub clean with plastic bristles. After I'll apply some M-pro cleaner, and then CLP or M-Pro 7 oil and wipe down. If it's my P226 I'll apply grease to the slide and finish, which I use as a sort of wax for the finish. I usually use oil on the hammer and sear springs, or any parts I need to lubricants to seap into.
The otis kit is extremely easy for me, as I use it like a normal cleaning rod, but with the convience of a bore snake. My only issue with it is that regular patches need to be torn to be used properly.
I also only have three different calibers i need to work with, so that simplifies things significantly.
 
Wait, what?!

Why do you apply CLP and *then* use mpro7 cleaner? You're just adding stuff for the cleaner to remove.
 
Wait, what?!

Why do you apply CLP and *then* use mpro7 cleaner? You're just adding stuff for the cleaner to remove.
Because oil and dirt cling to eachother, and it's better to leave CLP on metal and plastic than something more caustic. Mostly just enough to get patches and brushes through.
I figure it makes the cleaners job easier.
 
I know what you're saying, but you're literally making the cleaners job harder. MPro7 cleaner is a degreaser, you're adding oil (grease) - i only use the cleaner.

There is nothing fancy about oil, it'll clean just because it's an oil, and by clean, i mean it gets between the surfaces of stuff, but if you're using the cleaner, don't bother with the oil, it's just more to clean.
 

Upcoming Events

Tillamook Gun & Knife Show
Tillamook, OR
"The Original" Kalispell Gun Show
Kalispell, MT
Teen Rifle 1 Class
Springfield, OR
Kids Firearm Safety 2 Class
Springfield, OR

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top