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Great thread, understanding how others maintain their firearms...

I was a Hoppe's No. 9 and CLP fan for many, many years... I have examples that have been stored for the better part of 15 years and are still in pristine condition...

Now a days, I tend to use CLP as the cleaning solvent and MPro7 as the lubericant protectant. I also have to admit to using white lithium grease on contact points like rails, barrel lugs and links.

Typically, if ive fired something at the range, the bore will be cleaned for sure, that may simply involve a bore snake and CLP. With a complete wipe down. That's my minimum cleaning...

Complete tear down and Q-Tip type cleaning happens if its in my carry rotation, period. Others get that treatment several times a year, typically every two or three months.

Complete year downs include total disassembly, cleaning every nook and cranny, replete with those nasty Q-Tips and pipe cleaners, all using CLP. Tornado brush and patch clean the bore. A complete CLP wipe down followed by a drying with an old T shirt, then a light oiling with MPro7. White lithium grease on the rails, barrel lugs and links...

Cycle several times to clear the surplus lithium and a silicone cloth wipe down before either being returned to secured storage or loaded and holstered...

I have a tendency to be a bit anal about my firearms in general and my carry guns in particular... Carry guns get checked daily and cleaned when they seem to have accumulated a bit of dust and contamination...
 
Go read about "Filthy 14". I try to give my stuff a little more care than it gets. If I see carbon build up that can flake it gets scraped. If it starts looking grimy it gets cleaned. Barrels get a bore snake once in a while. Everything gets plenty of Slip 2000 EWL. After doing the "spotless" thing in the Army I just can't do it anymore as I feel the natural state of a firearm is to be slightly dirty and oily.
 
Great thread, understanding how others maintain their firearms...

I was a Hoppe's No. 9 and CLP fan for many, many years... I have examples that have been stored for the better part of 15 years and are still in pristine condition...

Now a days, I tend to use CLP as the cleaning solvent and MPro7 as the lubericant protectant. I also have to admit to using white lithium grease on contact points like rails, barrel lugs and links.

Typically, if ive fired something at the range, the bore will be cleaned for sure, that may simply involve a bore snake and CLP. With a complete wipe down. That's my minimum cleaning...

Complete tear down and Q-Tip type cleaning happens if its in my carry rotation, period. Others get that treatment several times a year, typically every two or three months.

Complete year downs include total disassembly, cleaning every nook and cranny, replete with those nasty Q-Tips and pipe cleaners, all using CLP. Tornado brush and patch clean the bore. A complete CLP wipe down followed by a drying with an old T shirt, then a light oiling with MPro7. White lithium grease on the rails, barrel lugs and links...

Cycle several times to clear the surplus lithium and a silicone cloth wipe down before either being returned to secured storage or loaded and holstered...

I have a tendency to be a bit anal about my firearms in general and my carry guns in particular... Carry guns get checked daily and cleaned when they seem to have accumulated a bit of dust and contamination...
I hear all this, like it.

If you like the lithium and MPro7 oil, i can highly recommend switching them to the non petroleum types, so much smoother and long lasting. I'm fairly certain (without checking) that the LPX you're using is petroleum based, but i could be wrong.

The Slip2000 grease is amazing stuff and their oil, the EWL is shockingly slippier :) You'll be glad you tried it ;)
 
I hear all this, like it.

If you like the lithium and MPro7 oil, i can highly recommend switching them to the non petroleum types, so much smoother and long lasting. I'm fairly certain (without checking) that the LPX you're using is petroleum based, but i could be wrong.

The Slip2000 grease is amazing stuff and their oil, the EWL is shockingly slippier :) You'll be glad you tried it ;)
Slip2000 sounds interesting, I'll have to check it out, appreciate the heads up!
 
Yep tell me how well this stuff doesn't work :D, it has kept bores cleaned and actions lubed on millions of rifles.

Run the bronze brush thru soaked in solvent, let it set. Run patches thru it till they come out clean.

solvent.JPG
riflegrease.jpg
 
I clean & lube about every 3rd time taking it to the range (300-500 rounds).

I also don't change my oil every 3,000 miles...I do it at 7,500 just like the manufacturer recommends.
 
I use an electronic cleaner on my rifles to get the copper build up out, works great.
A buddy of mine makes his own diesel fuel in his garage, a mason jar full of that stuff is all a fella needs to clean and lubricate his handguns, IMHO.

Would love to hear a good alternative to Remoil and the like for spraying on guns out in the field.
 
I use an electronic cleaner on my rifles to get the copper build up out, works great.
A buddy of mine makes his own diesel fuel in his garage, a mason jar full of that stuff is all a fella needs to clean and lubricate his handguns, IMHO.

Would love to hear a good alternative to Remoil and the like for spraying on guns out in the field.
Alternative for remoil? anything! :)

For lube? or just protection?
Any of the stuff i recommended will work very well, unless you had a very specific use/condition?
 
I also don't change my oil every 3,000 miles...I do it at 7,500 just like the manufacturer recommends.

I have to admit, that was a hard habit for me to get out of too. The "every three months or 3K miles, whichever comes first" mantra had been around for a while. But, since the manual says different, and I use full synthetics, I can quell that urge to change it sooner. :s0155:
 
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I was shocked when the ground vehicle maintenance guys started changing lubricants every thousand hours, and even Turbine Lub changes went to several hundred hours! My 69 Alfa Romeo GTV was always changed at 2500 miles or 6 months with full synthetic oil! Now I can go 7500 miles and the oil still looks clean! My Cat diesel is supposed to go 25,000 miles or 6 months on it's Oil!!!!! I would say lube has improved quite a lot in the last 40 years!
 
Engine oil and engines advance, or have advanced steadily over the last 100 years, engine oil changes in America seem to have been consumerised, that whole 3000 mile thing.

Here's the deal, a lot of manufacturers said that interval for quite a while, but it's for the 'harsh drive cycle' - which many Americans actual use their car in. It's all the stop signs and lights, add the short journeys that are typical and it fits the bill.

Last ten years though, more advances in engine design and tolerances mean that service intervals and oil saturation (taking on dirt and losing ability to lubricate sufficiently) have gone up.

Most cars are/were 5000-6000 mile oil changes, but not on the typical American drive cycle, hence the 3000 mile interval for 'extreme conditions'.

@Velzey is right on the RemOil suggested uses, as it is a very thin oil, it's pretty good for the things he mentioned, it's what i use my bottle for, well, it's *all* i use it for.
 
Alternative for remoil? anything! :)

For lube? or just protection?
Any of the stuff i recommended will work very well, unless you had a very specific use/condition?
I usually throw a can in my gear bag when out hunting, so I can spray down the rifle when I get back to the tent, especially if it's raining. What should I get instead?
 
Hmm, I'd probably use a wipe, mpro7, froglube, seal1, they all make impregnated wipes.

Honestly though, if you use seal1 or frog lube, i just completely apply to all surfaces inside and out. its doesnt act like oil so you can do that without the problems that doing it with oil would give you.

Example, it was raining when i did clays this last weekend, my double is fully treated so i had no water issues, it runs right off.

When i got home, i just gave it a quick wipe with a rag that had some frog or seal1 on it from the original cleaning and shoved it back in the safe.
 
Oddly, last night when checking for the recommended lube points on the Garand rear sight, i saw someone mention remoil was basically mostly alcohol, which explains why it has the staying power of an asthmatic ant.
 
I would caution the use of the crappy metal cleaning rods that ship w new pistols. The way their cut leaves a sharp metal end I don't want touching my chamber or boar. CZ has been the only one to cover them with a rubber cap.
That said I'm a fan of Otis. Use it on everything seldom use rods anymore. I clean my firearms way more than I should but it keeps fimaliar w the gun and the lube fresh. I use CLP on most everything for the ease of cleanup and tetra gun grease for slides and such. I have used everting on my AR bolts from 20\50 sysnhetic to valvoline red grease to CLP . It all worked. I shoot cheap steel cased in most my ARs for fun so they get cleaned afterwords need it or not. I also shoot bare lead in my .45acp and .22lr so they get the lead/copper removal treatment as needed. I use quality brass brushes and have nylon as well. Really like the plastic double ended nylon bristle brushes for scrubbing and pushing t shirt patches around the action and rails. Use a quality soft metal, brass ,aluminum for rods and patch holders and keep metal contact down as much as possible. And always breech to muzzle.
I have many firearms that shoot more accurate w a some fouling in the barrel.
I also watched a guy run a test w his frog lubed AR and cheap steel cased ammo. With stoppages acuring around the 600 round mark neither of us were impressed and he went back to CLP.
Also any light oil including CLP runs off over time. I use Remlube only for hosing dirty parts or a light coat on the outside for storage. Way to thin for me.
 

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