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If the vid doesn't start at 1:20, skip ahead to 1:20

So notice how the disconnector (what I called the "rear sear" earlier) catches the hammer on ejection. Notice the disconnector has a spring and pivot.

When the bolt goes forward the hammer is held by the disconnector until the shooter releases the trigger and the disconnector releases the hammer, but the primary sear catches it before it can fly forward and strike the firing pin.

The goal here is to adjust the disconnector such that it is more to the rear (to the right in the vid) and there is more space between it and the primary sear, such that when the trigger is released, the primary sear does not catch the hammer, but rather the hammer flies forward to strike the firing pin.

Then the bolt goes back on ejection and the primary sear catches the hammer and you can repeat the process.

In many AKs, the disconnector most forward position is controlled by the bottom part of the disconnector resting against the inside under portion of the receiver.

Strip the gun down by removing the receiver cover, then remove the bolt carrier from the gun. Pull the trigger so that the hammer flies forward. Now you can see down into the trigger.

By pulling back on the disconnector with a finger and looking down into the trigger, you can see where the disconnector rests against the bottom of the receiver, usually just a little to the rear of where the trigger lever enters the receiver. That is where someone could put a bit of a shim between the disconnector and the receiver - I used a piece feeler gauge. I tried different thicknesses until the disconnector was moved enough to the rear that I got a binary trigger pull.

It wasn't perfect, I still got a few times when the hammer would follow the bolt home after ejection.

But that is the principle.

It was fun to shoot, but not reliable. I only did it once, and it was ohhh... maybe 25-30 years ago. I have not done it since.

I am sure the commercial mechanisms are more sophisticated, reliable and safer.
 
After the Yamhill county cleanup, I found a good spot to take my kids on Father's Day to sight in my PSA AR9. After my boys were done, I told them to switch to third position. This was their reward for sighting in my new pistol. Happy Father's Day 2020_1.gif
 
To start off, I have never got the opportunity to fire a Binary trigger system but am very interested in dropping one into my AK47. I hate the stock trigger, so Im looking around for options. Well.. most of the high end trigger systems are sold out. Im talking $100+ triggers. I came across a binary trigger from franklin Armory for about $500.

Link here
Franklin Armory® BFSIII™ AK-C1

My original search was for a cleaner, crisper and minimal trigger pull. What should I expect from a binary? What is the trigger pull like? My stock trigger allows me to feel the aggressive nature of this beast, and its not comfortable to say the least.

View attachment 722882
I can only speak for the fostech echo sport, but I would not call it "cleaner, crisper" etc. I would think of a binary as a go-fast toy, not a precision instrument at all. Mine has been extremely reliable but I've only used it in a 15-22 (which the manufacturer says it will not work in). The normal trigger pull is heavier and more vague than you would expect but the reset actuation is very light and very nice.

I would suggest picking one of the two options and not trying to get both worlds in one trigger because imo u will be disappointed if you do. Pick either: (1) a nice trigger with short travel and reset etc, or (2) binary for fun/fast play. The best solution overall imo Is to have a lower w/binary and another lower with a nice trigger. Then you can swap them at the range depending on what ur doing or what mood your in.

echo sport can be found for $230-$250 (pre-panic) and I have timed mine several times and it's always close to 600 rounds per minute rate.
 
wow! $500
long time ago someone showed me how to make my M1A binary using a bent piece of bobby pin. it was fun for a while but wasteful of ammunition.
Very good point on ammo! A 3 second burst (mag dump) costs like $7.50ish at 600rpm. So unless ur willing to spend a lot on ammo it may not get used as much as you think. That's why mine lives on the 15-22. A 3 second burst costs $0.90
 
Binary triggers are tons of fun. I find firing the first round off via a pull, then holding the trigger down, on release-pull, doubles taps are stupid fast. Much faster than trying to pull-release.

The semi auto trigger isn't exactly an upgrade for any of the platforms I've shot them in.

They aren't nearly as fun as bumpstocks were.

I miss bumpsaws....

Agree, double taps are so fast they literally sound like one shot.
 
CZ Scorpion with the Franklin Binary = crazy fun. Taking 30 rounds off the chain will make anyone grin. 9mm is the perfect caliber to have fun with that is not too costly to shoot. I enjoy reloading so the Binary trigger just helps me make more brass to reload so its symbiotic.

I did pick up an AR Binary from @HighLine for my LWRC SMG45 but I have not put it in yet. Anyone looking to get one should definitely reach out to Highline, fair prices but #1 you also supporting a Veteran owned small biz.
 
I had a binary OEM trigger on a lightly sporterized surplus Bulgarian.mil 308 Mauser about 35 years ago. It was my elk gun. Yes, regrets letting it get away on some demented pretext I'd rather have something else afterx seasons. Smooth long pull with a slight hitch...then either continue smooth short pull to break....or hesitate & use sweet super light 2nd stage.
 
I don't believe he is, I think he's just making a joke about what the MPX can do to a standard AR-15 trigger group.

That's not how it appears to me, but I could be mistaken.

You do know that binary triggers aren't exactly legal in WA don't you.

Yes I do, which is why I don't own one.

I will be relocating back to the United States in a year or two, so someday it may be in the cards.
 
I can only speak for the fostech echo sport, but I would not call it "cleaner, crisper" etc. I would think of a binary as a go-fast toy, not a precision instrument at all. Mine has been extremely reliable but I've only used it in a 15-22 (which the manufacturer says it will not work in). The normal trigger pull is heavier and more vague than you would expect but the reset actuation is very light and very nice.

I would suggest picking one of the two options and not trying to get both worlds in one trigger because imo u will be disappointed if you do. Pick either: (1) a nice trigger with short travel and reset etc, or (2) binary for fun/fast play. The best solution overall imo Is to have a lower w/binary and another lower with a nice trigger. Then you can swap them at the range depending on what ur doing or what mood your in.

echo sport can be found for $230-$250 (pre-panic) and I have timed mine several times and it's always close to 600 rounds per minute rate.
thank you for the input! I will look into the fostech echo sport just for bubblegums n giggles, i may just go with two seterate lowers, giving me the opportunity to upgrade even more! MWA HAHAHA
 

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