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Update beginning to hate the gun.
Sorry to hear that. Sadly 1911s are extremely finicky. Gorgeous guns but many times require a lot of patience. I have spent more money than I like to recall on 1911s hoping to have the experience that so many others rave about. Sadly I was let down on every occasion. It may have been my fault, ammo, mags, etc but I never took the time. My frustration always got to me. I'd always sell them and return to a Glock. Ugly as sin but every time I pull the trigger it goes bang. Reliability means more to me than appearance.
 
Sorry to hear that. Sadly 1911s are extremely finicky. Gorgeous guns but many times require a lot of patience. I have spent more money than I like to recall on 1911s hoping to have the experience that so many others rave about. Sadly I was let down on every occasion. It may have been my fault, ammo, mags, etc but I never took the time. My frustration always got to me. I'd always sell them and return to a Glock. Ugly as sin but every time I pull the trigger it goes bang. Reliability means more to me than appearance.
Agreed. Guns are gorgeous but I've never had an issue with Sigs or Glocks. Buddy has a couple never had any issues after the initial break in period. I'll get it dialed in but it's frustrating for sure.
 
I realize this is a new Kimber, but if it's a feeding issue, that feed ramp might need just a tad of
attention to make it bright and smooth. A felt tip polisher attached to a dremel with just a spot of Flitz or Mother's Mag Polish might just do the trick. Your not removing material just making it
a bit smoother and shiny, inviting that round to slip right up and into the barrel.
 
Most 1911's no matter how much money you throw at them still have mil-spec feed ramps and what is designed to go up those ramps? Ball ammo, not your new fancy pants hollow points. Chip mags, ball ammo and I've had some decent fun with 1911's in the past.
 
I bought a Kimber Custom Stainless II, 10mm, because I thought they had a good reputation.
Failure to feed every mag.
Returned to Kimber for repair. It was sent back with a note saying it works fine.
FTF every mag.
Was told I need to cycle at least 1k to 1.5k rounds for it to loosen up, until it became reliable. At $1.00 per round?
Did I mention I have bears on my property!

Sold Kimber bought a GLOCK G20. Works perfect out of the box. * months later and never a malfunction with my G20.
I now own two GLOCK G20's
 
I bought a Kimber Custom Stainless II, 10mm, because I thought they had a good reputation.
Failure to feed every mag.
Returned to Kimber for repair. It was sent back with a note saying it works fine.
FTF every mag.
Was told I need to cycle at least 1k to 1.5k rounds for it to loosen up, until it became reliable. At $1.00 per round?
Did I mention I have bears on my property!

Sold Kimber bought a GLOCK G20. Works perfect out of the box. * months later and never a malfunction with my G20.
I now own two GLOCK G20's
Kimber said it worked fine because they were probably running ball ammo through it and not bear loads. :D
 
Never had issues with a Factory New Kimber, including an Ultra Carry II that I rocked for years! Took a little bit of break in with good ammo, but once I throated it and polished up the feed ramp, she ran flawlessly with every thing I threw at it! My Eclipse Custom 10 mm has been Flawless, other then needing to remove the coating from the breech face, it didn't take very long to break it in and now it's one of the smoothest running 1911's I have ever shot!
 
I had a Full size Kimber that was picky with ammo. I found rim thickness on the cases was the issue. Thin rimmed ammo cycled fine and thick did not. I had the bolt face polished and a little work on the barrel hood done and it ate everything after that. The gun went from a frustrating hunk of metal to a fine reliable shooter.

I did find some long nosed ammo that would cycle into the chamber fine but was too long to extract if not fired. Removing a loaded round was problematic. I never bought that brand of ammo again. I have since sold that gun and the new owner has never had any issues with it..I even tried to buy it back from him and he won't let it go.
 
1911s jam? Need a break-in period? Ugh

Nope

Screenshot_2018-02-08-17-06-33-1.png
 
Hand made and tight...no break in period. Defies dirt as you can see...no jams.

They are a machine, if they are made correctly they will run, they don't have a choice.

Can't stand when manufacturers state, they need a break in period...when did that come about? Most likely when their care for quality went down the toilet. Don't recall such a thing even 20 years ago...now, sadly we've allowed the manufacturers to get away with it.

Break in period...oh pleeeeeez...it's not a high tolerance detailed machine...ugh.

Getting back to the OP...let me know exactly what the jam is. If we can't figure it out online, get it to me and I'll look it it over...no charge. If it's not too messed up from the factory, I'll fix it...no charge.
 
Hand made and tight...no break in period. Defies dirt as you can see...no jams.

They are a machine, if they are made correctly they will run, they don't have a choice.

Can't stand when manufacturers state, they need a break in period...when did that come about? Most likely when their care for quality went down the toilet. Don't recall such a thing even 20 years ago...now, sadly we've allowed the manufacturers to get away with it.

Break in period...oh pleeeeeez...it's not a high tolerance detailed machine...ugh.

Getting back to the OP...let me know exactly what the jam is. If we can't figure it out online, get it to me and I'll look it it over...no charge. If If it's not too messed up from the factory, I'll fix it...no charge.
Yup! I have had a number of 1911s over the years, none actually required any break in, but like your new built race engines, they should be treated with care at first, what that should look like depends on how well it was made!
Having hand built a number of 1911s for my own needs, I like them TIGHT, and they don't require much in the way of tuning especially if you pay attention to the precise fitments! It also cracks me up when I read or hear someone saying to grease the snot out of their 1911s and then run them like that! A few drops of light oil and that's it for a "Break In" then run them dry as a bone after the first few mags! Hell, I don't even scrub the bores until their green, even then, as long as they still shoot to spec, I usually leave them alone!
 
I don't see enough information to diagnose anything.

Explain in detail what the jam is. Position of the round etc. Pics are a plus.
First couple rounds are fine then the slide won't come forward at times. Round is stuck on the feed ramp. Once I clear it its fine, though last weekend it was happening almost every mag. Shot about 50 rounds happened about 6-8 times. All same issue failure to feed.
 
Yup! I have had a number of 1911s over the years, none actually required any break in, but like your new built race engines, they should be treated with care at first, what that should look like depends on how well it was made!
Having hand built a number of 1911s for my own needs, I like them TIGHT, and they don't require much in the way of tuning especially if you pay attention to the precise fitments! It also cracks me up when I read or hear someone saying to grease the snot out of their 1911s and then run them like that! A few drops of light oil and that's it for a "Break In" then run them dry as a bone after the first few mags! Hell, I don't even scrub the bores until their green, even then, as long as they still shoot to spec, I usually leave them alone!
I got a AMT Hardballer from my Dad when he passed. He always had problems with it jamming - slide to frame. They had a tendency to gall due to the soft stainless steel (1st stainless 1911). I polished out the frame/slide where the galling was occurring and I used some Slip2000 grease beween the slide and frame where they made contact. It runs great now. Grease works in some situations.
 
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