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What about current production series 70? Apparently CZ dropped the series 70 in favor of "classic".
Looking at the website, appears Colt has caved to the internet schtuff...ugh.

"...Classic features the Series 70 firing system and rollmarks..." The Classic does not have the Series 70 roll marks on the slide, it states Government Model. So go with the same as the car industry...Make, Model and year...
 
Looking at the website, appears Colt has caved to the internet schtuff...ugh.

"...Classic features the Series 70 firing system and rollmarks..." The Classic does not have the Series 70 roll marks on the slide, it states Government Model. So go with the same as the car industry...Make, Model and year...
Up until at least a few years ago, they did have the series 70 rollmark.
 
Up until at least a few years ago, they did have the series 70 rollmark.
I go with the slide roll mark, provided the frame still has the original slide.

Also, the original Series 70 models made from 1970 to 1983 had the accurizer collet barrel bushing with the finger flanges...any of the new Series 70 models do not have that. Another reason to be specific on what one has.

series-70-collet-barrel-bushing.jpg
 
The barrel.

The entrance to the chamber, at the top of the barrel feed ramp should not have a sharp edge at the transition. This one did, so take off just the edge and no more. Makes for a easier transition of the round from the feed ramp into the chamber.

The light makes it look like its rounded more than it is...

throat.jpg

Next is the extractor.

The pic of this jam can more than likely be 1 of 2 things...either the magazine follower is pitching forward allowing the round to nose into the ramp, or the extractor is applying to much pressure and the rim is unable to get under the extractor, which forces the round into the ramp.

jam.jpg

In this case, the extractor showed it was applying a bit over 2lbs of pressure on the case rim. So adjustment was needed to back it down to 24-27oz.

Then there's the extractor itself. The Kimber is shown on the left, with a standard Colt extractor on the right.

1vs2.jpg

Way more extractor than what is needed, the hook flat area is about twice the size, again not needed, then there's that piece against the adjustment pad that didn't get machined out. In this case, it doesn't cause any problems as that part sits back into the extractor tunnel...but my oh my.

Here's the extractor up close;

extractor1.jpg

This is begging to be adjusted for better extraction, handling and ejection. I won't post my work here, as that's part of my armorer course, and I have my own tricks for this...but I will post what is widely available...its not detailed enough for me to get the results I want, but it will give an idea what all needs to be done to get it working properly.

.jpg

After all above was done, lubed and reassembled...put 4 magazines through it...no jams. More testing to be done with JHPs

Stay tuned...
 
This morning was JHP time. 4 magazines, no jams

It ran Nosler Competition, Hornady XTP, Speer, Federal HST, Remington Golden Saber, and some old CCI Flying Ash Trays.

Shows promise. Talked to the owner JJE76, told him I would do a total tear down to the bare frame, check the trigger etc and ship it back the first of next week.
 
Last test this morning. 4 magazines with alternating FMJ and JHP's. No problems.

When 1911 function testing I'm not working on accuracy, I look at 2 things. 1. How the slide is operating both chambering and ejection. Watching for any hesitation etc. 2. Where the ejected cases are going. If I don't like where the brass is going, I'll tune the ejector and extractor for the general area of where I want the ejection process to put them...impacting the forehead is not an option.

These small pistols have to do everything the 5" guns do, but in a shorter amount of time...so there's very little wiggle room for things to be out of spec.

The last thing about 1911's...just because they are running, doesn't mean they are running correctly. They will chew themselves up and finally implode if one doesn't keep an eye on things.,

This gun is done. Will tear down to the frame this weekend and go through the fire control system and ship it back on Monday.
 
The correct plunger springs were originally made this way. Yep, designed not to go flying across the room when removing the thumb safety.

The one in the picture is from the Kimber in this thread, glad to see Kimber paying attention to some detail.
 
1911 question...is this plunger tube spring damaged?

If so, how do you think the damage occurred.
If not, why is it this way.

View attachment 1141423
The correct plunger springs were originally made this way. Yep, designed not to go flying across the room when removing the thumb safety.

The one in the picture is from Kimber in this thread, glad to see Kimber paying attention to some detail.
That's from my gun? Great job Kimber??!!
 
I'm a full length guide rod and bushing guy, I know it's heavier and more wear and complication, and if not tuned, can cause issues, but Damn, when you get it right, boy does it run, especially on these high zoot 10 mm pistols with their duel recoil springs and plungers!

@Cerberus Group What are your thoughts on the full length systems?
 
I have a Colt Commander that runs smoother with a FLGR.

If I use one, it is a 2 piece for easier take down.

But, I don't like anything that requires extra tools for disassembly. The original Colt is made so the parts can be used as tools to take apart the pistol in a sequence, and an empty 45 case can be used as the recoil spring plug.
 
Update. Got my gun back from Cerberus group. Went to the range this morning worked perfectly! Put around 8 mags through it not one issue. Felt smoother as well. Steve really knows this platform, huge thanks to him for fixing my ultra paperweight. Learned some really good info in our brief chats. Thanks again!!!
 

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