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Curious, what Kimber did you get? I wasn't loading at the time I got my Stainless II and I don't remember any specific breakin mentioned. People on NWFA talked about 500 rounds before a good 1911 is shootin' good. Wifey's Pro Aegis II 9mm recomended 200 rounds of factory be used for breakin. The Pro Aegis was a little tempermental at first, maybe a 'Limp-Wrist' thing, no issues since.

I've loved my Kimber since 2/11.

Mike
 
Got a Ultra Crimson Carry II, had to buy it in Portland and do an FFL transfer + use tax. That added almost $150 to the dealers price.

The break in info is in the owners manual, can't quote it as I'm at work right now and don't have it with me.
 
Nice gun I bet, it would seem Wifey's Pro Aegis ll 9mm is built pretty much the same from the spec sheets.

If it were me, I'd be inclined to put at least a couple hundred factory 230 RNs through it before I shot the 185s.

Mike
 
I too like to follow the manual but have had several Kimbers and currently have three and have not had any break-in issues with any of them.

I think that statement in the manual is for folks that might have an issue with specific ammo. So Kimber just tells you to pump X amount of ammo through the gun to cure the break-in issues, provided you have one. Saves a lot of guns going back to the factory. I would bet many other manufacturers manual will spell out the same instructions.

Why you could not shoot any other type of ammo through your pistol from the get go I would not understand. I shot my light loaded reloads through my Gold Match the day I bought it. 200 grain lead semi wadcutters. I still shoot them and every thing else I buy. I don't buy the 230 gr ball ammo as a rule, maybe if it was the cheapest thing on the shelf for target shooting I might.

Don't think there is much chance you will have a problem with that Kimber. Excellent Pistols, good luck with yours.
 
Don't know why they specify the 230 for break in, but, I assume, the sights are set for 230 and 185's would have a different POI.

Now waiting for the Crossbreed holster to get here and get some range time with it.
 
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For whatever it is worth; I have owned many Kimbers and several of the 3" Ultras and never had a problem shooting a variety of weights and power levels through them. The 230 weight is to ensure cycling while the tolerances are still close from the factory. Proceed as you see fit.
 
Brake in - not brake it -
For instance 230 grain loads will cycle fine with less hammering of the action, using +p ammo will put sudden pressure on parts that will take it, but otherwise might not wear in as far. The gun might be a couple thousandths tighter at length of action if not hammered in with hot loads. It will shoot anything you feed it but save that for later.
You are shaping machined parts for the first time.
Silver Hand
 
I think the gun just needs to be shot for the parts to wear in. The fact they recommend 230 gr ball ammo is just to help eliminate any jamming during the break in phase. You can use anything you want, but may experience jams and such that you might not with the easier feeding ball ammo. I'de use what I had on hand and not be as critical if jamming does occur during the first few hundred rounds.
 
I can't believe this conversation exists!...and it's even made it to post 13???

Ya know if all them 1911's the military ordered way back in 1912 and on forward required a break in period, me thinks the Military would have re-thought the whole thing.
How much would it have cost to "break-in" all them thar guns???

I know what's coming next...but the 1911's now days are made tighter, thus need a break-in period to work right. Then don't make so tight where they won't work out of the box. Being so tight has little do with shooting off the legs of a fly at 25 yards...its all about barrel fit. UGH!

Oh pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez.

They are a machine, if they are built right for the start, they will run...they don't have a choice.

It matters not what ammo you put thru them for the so called break-in crap. The break-in crap is a useless liability waiver which actually means...we really couldn't put out a quality product, so we won't accept it into warranty if it doesn't work, until you waste 500 rounds of your own ammo first! UGH!
 
You know it is like breaking in an automobile engine, there is a correct way to do it and every one seems to be correct in the way they do it. After all, they all run just look down the highway.
Some just run a little longer and have closer tolerances than others.
Engineers don't leave room for interpretation.
 
I can't believe this conversation exists!...and it's even made it to post 13???

Ya know if all them 1911's the military ordered way back in 1912 and on forward required a break in period, me thinks the Military would have re-thought the whole thing.
How much would it have cost to "break-in" all them thar guns???

I know what's coming next...but the 1911's now days are made tighter, thus need a break-in period to work right. Then don't make so tight where they won't work out of the box. Being so tight has little do with shooting off the legs of a fly at 25 yards...its all about barrel fit. UGH!

Oh pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez.

They are a machine, if they are built right for the start, they will run...they don't have a choice.

It matters not what ammo you put thru them for the so called break-in crap. The break-in crap is a useless liability waiver which actually means...we really couldn't put out a quality product, so we won't accept it into warranty if it doesn't work, until you waste 500 rounds of your own ammo first! UGH!
Thanks for the "warm" welcome to owning my first Kimber!
 
It matters not what ammo you put thru them for the so called break-in crap. The break-in crap is a useless liability waiver which actually means...we really couldn't put out a quality product, so we won't accept it into warranty if it doesn't work, until you waste 500 rounds of your own ammo first! UGH!

Here's what my manual actually says. I think it's the same manual for all full-sized Kimbers:

"BREAK-IN PERIOD

Before firing the pistol for the first time, Field Strip and clean the firearm following proper procedures (see DISASSEMBLY, CLEANING, and LUBRICATION and ASSEMBLY Instructions in this Manual) Kimbers[sic] firearms are quality custom pieces. Our firearms are hand fitted to tight tolerances. For proper Break-in of the firearm shoot 400-500 rounds of Quality Factory Ball (230g. FMJ) Ammunition, cleaning and lubricating the gun every 100-150 rounds."

Yep, that's the actual text - including misspelling their own name, weird capitalization, and missing punctuation. I don't think their spelling is held to the same tight tolerances :)
 
185s will break your Kimber instantly! The slide will explode before you make it through the the first magazine! :s0114:

Just shoot what you've got. The main thing is just put rounds through it. They don't want people complaining that their favorite hollow point isn't feeding reliably right away so they just say feed reliable/cheap ball ammo through it for a while to loosen it up.
 
Thanks for the "warm" welcome to owning my first Kimber!


Yer most very welcome! How else can I be of service to you?

My response is in surprise that no one had mentioned what I did, way before post 13. And it was not directed at Kimber, just at the "break-in" thing.

I wouldn't get all wound up over a 1911 break-in period.

Contrary to the "Kimber" manual, they ain't all that tight where one needs to be concerned over ruining anything.

1911's are not a high speed machine. Grab most any quality ammo and go have fun.
Yep, what DoubleTapDrew said...

The "break-in" thing is way over rated for a production gun.

Its amusing that years ago not even Wilson suggested a break-in period, and they were putting out very tight guns as well...now it seems to be all the rage.

Just a quick note. Like all Military based designed firearms...they like to run wet. So keep it lubed, and lubed well. Just not dripping wet.
 
Lots of guns have break-in periods,. Hell, my XD when I first got it, had rather a lot of stove-tops or other failures to cycle. After about 500 rounds it has been fine, with thousands of rounds ever since trouble free.

It's not the round, it's really ANY round. Some guns take a lot. If I hadn't brought my brand new XD to front-sight and broken it in there, I would have been really pissed at the gun for it's FTFs. By the time I was done with FS 4-day pistol, it was shooting like a dream. I now carry it every day and not a single issue past 300 rounds.
 

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