Poll: Just a Little fun with Lube Choices

[Joe13]

I've used BreakFree CLP since '85 on 1911's, M16's, M203's, M9's, MP5's , pump-action shotguns, & M60's... from the jungles of Central/South America to the Northern Hemisphere during summers & winters (mini-blizzards) w/o issue.... so, yeah. BreakFree CLP

I have a bottle of that, I just haven't run out of the other stuff aim using yet.

@PaulB47 - Bacon Greese was absolutely a joke.

 

[etrain16]

I've used BreakFree CLP since '85 on 1911's, M16's, M203's, M9's, MP5's , pump-action shotguns, & M60's... from the jungles of Central/South America to the Northern Hemisphere during summers & winters (mini-blizzards) w/o issue.... so, yeah. BreakFree CLP

I've been using that for a while now, seems to be good stuff. No complaints from me.

 

[Pops1911]

Always been a fan of the white lithium grease. True that one $10 will last a lifetime. Just now trying out a Mobil red grease in the 1911s that I am really liking. I am a member of the "run 'em wet school". I do go a little easy on the grease with carry weapons. Hate that grease stain on my shirt at the end of the day. Meh, the lunch time fast food grease stains on the shirt front sorta balances out the side stains. LOL

 

[BillGabby1]

Over the years never could tell the difference between grease or oil but grease attracts dirt more and can get pretty hard over time. I've cleaned other peoples guns some after buying the gun and some as a favor. I would have to literlly scrape it off before attacking with the Hoppes and tooth brush. My Own guns I normally oil lightly after a full cleaning if I get it too heavy I wipe it down and leave a light film for lube and rust prevention.I've used WD-40 that way for years, soak it on then wipe down after it had time to penetrate the steel, never had a problem with function or rust.
I've recently converted to Penzoil full synthetic 30 weight for all lube and cleaning.
Its a detergent oil which aids in cleaning and is formulated to work in high temp and friction. I doubt my firearms will ever have to work in those extreme conditions, so I'm confident that quart of oil I got for around $6 will probably out last me, and do a fine job as well!
Y'all are welcome to spend as much as feels good to buy the latest wonder lube, but most of them are only re-packaged motor oil in the first place. I'm sure if more people wanted it to smell and taste like bacon they would come up with just that sort of product, and maybe name it Pig Sweat or some such catchy name.
Gabby

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Over the years never could tell the difference between grease or oil but grease attracts dirt more and can get pretty hard over time. I've cleaned other peoples guns some after buying the gun and some as a favor. I would have to literlly scrape it off before attacking with the Hoppes and tooth brush. My Own guns I normally oil lightly after a full cleaning if I get it too heavy I wipe it down and leave a light film for lube and rust prevention.I've used WD-40 that way for years, soak it on then wipe down after it had time to penetrate the steel, never had a problem with function or rust.
I've recently converted to Penzoil full synthetic 30 weight for all lube and cleaning.
Its a detergent oil which aids in cleaning and is formulated to work in high temp and friction. I doubt my firearms will ever have to work in those extreme conditions, so I'm confident that quart of oil I got for around $6 will probably out last me, and do a fine job as well!
Y'all are welcome to spend as much as feels good to buy the latest wonder lube, but most of them are only re-packaged motor oil in the first place. I'm sure if more people wanted it to smell and taste like bacon they would come up with just that sort of product, and maybe name it Pig Sweat or some such catchy name.
Gabby

Repackaged base oils, things don't start out as motor oil

I'm glad you've moved on from WD though, regardless of your experience, it's a *very* unsuitable firearm lubricant, motor oil isn't amazing, but it works well.

Honestly, it's worth taking ten minutes to read this, it's very imformative and useful particularly as it's written from someone with a point of view of, "they charge HOW much! for Fireclean!!!"

Lubrication 101: Gun oil, snake oil, and how to tell the difference. - www.GrantCunningham.com (http://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/)

 

[Certaindeaf]

 

[OutlawHoss]

Repackaged base oils, things don't start out as motor oil

I'm glad you've moved on from WD though, regardless of your experience, it's a *very* unsuitable firearm lubricant, motor oil isn't amazing, but it works well.

Honestly, it's worth taking ten minutes to read this, it's very imformative and useful particularly as it's written from someone with a point of view of, "they charge HOW much! for Fireclean!!!"

Lubrication 101: Gun oil, snake oil, and how to tell the difference. - www.GrantCunningham.com (http://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/)

Very informative. I've always thought that the oil viscosity and thickness should be correlated with tolerances between parts and their type of stress/wear. Anyway, that's a great article to make more of an informed choice.

 

[Velzey]

I'm still working thru the 5 gallon pail of ww2 weapons grease...


I should add that most firearms need a little of each in a few areas. So many guns I've repaired have worn prematurely. Run them dry and the only lube they get is, well none.

Most common oil I use I Miltech. I've always had great results using it. As for grease I usually grease a couple spots.

As for grease I do like Lubripate grease and have used it for years. But I also use tw25. I was intoduced to it while working on full auto firearms, and am pretty impressed.