Jeebus, mary and joseph does no one install and borsesight scopes anymore....

[mjbskwim]

Mounting a scope is really easy.Hardest part is getting the correct rings and bases,unless your store has a good supply.
Take the factory plugs out
Set the bases on the receiver/barrel,make sure all the holes line up
Dab a small amount of BLUE locktite on the screws and screw down the bases.USING YOUR FINGER TIPS not your entire bear paws
Set the rings on the bases and tighten just enough to keep them in place.They should wiggle a little.
Then put the scope on and the top half of the rings.Snug the rings just so you can barely move the scope to align the cross hairs.
Tighten the scope rings fairly snug.This will align the rings and you do not need the ring alignment bars.
Tighten the rings to the bases and make sure the rest of the screws are snug.

A inch pound torque wrench is really unnecessary if you are just careful and use your finger tips to tighten things down.
Not those big Richard beaters.Over tightening the rings can distort the scope

I do all my own and some friends' guns like this and they all seem to shoot pretty good.

Then as mentioned,take the bolt out and look thru the barrel at a target(anything) at say 50 yards(+-). align the cross hairs vertically perfect and horizontally close.
Should get you on paper. Then the horizontal can be adjusted for the yardage you want.

Good luck.

 

[Key-Hay]

Don't need no fancy bore sight tool, Just pull the bolt and sight through the bore with the rifle in a gun vice. I open the garage and use the 0 in my cross the street neighbor's house address (He's away in florida RVing). Adjust the scope to the same spot and I'm usually pretty spot on. a few clicks at the range and done. It it's a Semi-auto, just use a small dental mirror to sight down the bore.

As far as torque settings, go with Mfgr's suggested.

 

[sava6e]

actually there is a formula for torquing scope rings, it is a complex methodology whereas the caliber, the metallurgy of the scope as well as metallurgy of the rings, your elevation due to atmospheric pressure all play a vital role in proper torque. the formulas are as following:

 

[Blitzkrieg]

Laser bore sighting tool has saved ma a LOT of ammo over the years. It never fails to get me on a piece of printer paper size target at 25 yards

 

[DEADTIME]

Laser bore sighting tool has saved ma a LOT of ammo over the years. It never fails to get me on a piece of printer paper size target at 25 yards

Just bought a laser bore sighter last night, I welded the scope on last night with a plasma welder.

 

[Morpheus]

Just bought a laser bore sighter last night, I welded the scope on last night with a plasma welder.

You are just trolling us now right? First 200 ft/lbs of torque, now using a a plasma welder?

 

[DEADTIME]

Lol I'm having fun guys....I love this board.

 

[Spitpatch]

I clicked a "like" on the "bore-sight/plasma welder" post, because I (and deadtime and mjb) think both are just about as practical. In 44 years of attaching scopes to guns I have tried multiple types of boresighting gadgets (because I think they SHOULD work, and I am an optimist).

They DO work, but NEVER as well as good old-fashioned true boresighting. I have a few of those gadgets still around. I break them out on the VERY RARE occasion that I have a gun that does not allow me to peer down the bore (Pumps, Autos) combined with absolute dictated frugality toward 3-5 rounds of ammunition expense (it is the second qualification that almost never occurs.).

Repeated trials and comparisons have shown with no doubt whatsoever, that if I can see down the bore of a gun, pick out a definitive "target" (I like streetlamps or other spherical lights at distance at dark for precision results), and then truly calibrate the bore to the sights, the results on paper with live rounds never cease to amaze, and ALWAYS do better than "getting on the paper". A large majority of boresight gadgets I have tried frequently fail to "get on paper" with the first shot (perhaps I am too critical, but I consider "paper" to be 8.5x11).

With the old cowboy guns (most precluding true boresighting), I can get ANY gun (even drifting dovetail irons) to shoot dead-on at 25 yards within 3-5 rounds. 100 yard shots will then be "on paper" with nearly any cartridge/rifle combo (and the 3-5 rounds have served to perfectly foul the bore for fine shooting). When I see new gun buyers at the counter of gun shops (big-box type, and discount outfits) trusting the clerk to properly mount a scope from the ground up, then boresight it, I shudder to think how many of them purchase a box of ammo at the same time and traipse off into the hunting field (with no further work on the gun) to disrespect quarry deserving of so much more care and attention. When such guns are delivered to me to "fix" because they don't shoot well, there is always a glaring error of original procedure discovered: either in the attachment of the scope bases, or the ring installation. I work slowly and carefully and critically (a proud admission), and it takes me about a full hour to properly mount a scope to a new gun: work that I have often seen completed at the store counter in ten minutes (with predictable, dismal results being the general rule).

 

[Key-Hay]

I can get ANY gun (even drifting dovetail irons) to shoot dead-on at 25 yards within 3-5 rounds. 100 yard shots will then be "on paper" with nearly any cartridge/rifle combo (and the 3-5 rounds have served to perfectly foul the bore for fine shooting).

I just bore sighted 2 Ruger 10/22s with red dot scopes using nothing more than a dental mirror and a gun vice.

 

[Spitpatch]

The dental mirror application has been employed regularly by me as well (for the pesky guns that protect their nether regions from scrutiny). Your post deserves no criticism, other than to note that we all here have gun vices. Not all have gun vises. Some of us have gun Visas. Persons who attach sunshades to scopes might be said to have gun visors. By your valuable contribution, you are a gun advisor. (Pardon me, my English major is showing).

 

[Key-Hay]

The dental mirror application has been employed regularly by me as well (for the pesky guns that protect their nether regions from scrutiny). Your post deserves no criticism, other than to note that we all here have gun vices. Not all have gun vises. Some of us have gun Visas. Persons who attach sunshades to scopes might be said to have gun visors. By your valuable contribution, you are a gun advisor. (Pardon me, my English major is showing).

Well I stand corrected, I have once rifle vise and many gun vices.

 

[DEADTIME]

I clicked a "like" on the "bore-sight/plasma welder" post, because I (and deadtime and mjb) think both are just about as practical. In 44 years of attaching scopes to guns I have tried multiple types of boresighting gadgets (because I think they SHOULD work, and I am an optimist).

They DO work, but NEVER as well as good old-fashioned true boresighting. I have a few of those gadgets still around. I break them out on the VERY RARE occasion that I have a gun that does not allow me to peer down the bore (Pumps, Autos) combined with absolute dictated frugality toward 3-5 rounds of ammunition expense (it is the second qualification that almost never occurs.).

Repeated trials and comparisons have shown with no doubt whatsoever, that if I can see down the bore of a gun, pick out a definitive "target" (I like streetlamps or other spherical lights at distance at dark for precision results), and then truly calibrate the bore to the sights, the results on paper with live rounds never cease to amaze, and ALWAYS do better than "getting on the paper". A large majority of boresight gadgets I have tried frequently fail to "get on paper" with the first shot (perhaps I am too critical, but I consider "paper" to be 8.5x11).

With the old cowboy guns (most precluding true boresighting), I can get ANY gun (even drifting dovetail irons) to shoot dead-on at 25 yards within 3-5 rounds. 100 yard shots will then be "on paper" with nearly any cartridge/rifle combo (and the 3-5 rounds have served to perfectly foul the bore for fine shooting). When I see new gun buyers at the counter of gun shops (big-box type, and discount outfits) trusting the clerk to properly mount a scope from the ground up, then boresight it, I shudder to think how many of them purchase a box of ammo at the same time and traipse off into the hunting field (with no further work on the gun) to disrespect quarry deserving of so much more care and attention. When such guns are delivered to me to "fix" because they don't shoot well, there is always a glaring error of original procedure discovered: either in the attachment of the scope bases, or the ring installation. I work slowly and carefully and critically (a proud admission), and it takes me about a full hour to properly mount a scope to a new gun: work that I have often seen completed at the store counter in ten minutes (with predictable, dismal results being the general rule).

Well written my friend, in all honesty I use an old bore site rig myself and find it quite worth the time. After a simple boresite at home I can go out to the range and hit a paper plate at 100 yards. It has saved me quite a bit of ammo and I love having the skill, if your out in the field and ammo counts or you dont want to make a bunch of noise (your trying to stay hidden) being able to quietly set a weapon up is crucial.