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Hey guys,

I'm having the toughest time with this die. Perhaps I dont know how it works but I keep ruining my brass when I'm trying to neck size. I am currently using the resizing die on a RCBS Rockchucker. I have it seated as follows.

1. Tighten the top (which controls play on the bushing) until it locks up, I back it out 2 turns.
2. The die is seated in the press until it hits the shell holder. I then back it up 1/4 turn.
3. I lock everything down.

My cases are lubed but still get crunched inside. what am i doing wrong?! I checked the bushing. It is indeed for .308. Could it be an issue with the bushing?
 
If you use too much lube, it will crunch the necks and shoulders because there is such a tight fit there is no place for the extra lube to go. May or may not be the problem.

Where are they getting crunched? Can you post a picture?
 
They're getting crunched at the neck. I use the dillon case lube so its not a bunch that i put on. I'll take pics of the setup and the casings tomorrow. Thanks for the response.
 
Assuming proper lube and etc....

It would be nice to know what S die we are discussing--FL or neck and what the bushing ID is and the case neck OD. I use several S dies of both types on several cartridges and I do not recall that Redding ever recommended backing out the bushing retainer two full turns--that seems excessive and could cause the problem that you are experiencing in a neck die when used with a tight inside diameter bushing as compared with the outside diameter of the case neck after firing. This could be seen especially when the die is being used on a "C" or "O" type press which does not allow the die bushing to center the case. Redding specifically instructed users how to choose the appropriate bushing as compared with fired case neck OD in the instruction sheet that came with my dies. If you do not have the sheet, Redding's tech tips section of their website may be of some use to you. A Rockchucker is a "C" type press if memory serves.

The idea of allowing the bushing to be a TINY bit loose is to allow the caseneck to form in a sort of inverted funnel which helps to guide the cartridge into the chamber neck space. The way I learned how to do it was to lightly tighten the bushing retainer until you could hear no rattling when you shake the die. Then you back out the retainer only enough to hear a bit of a rattle. I find this to be a useful procedure when forming cases to be used in an auto loader. I do not find it necessary nor even desirable for use with cases to be loaded in bolt rifles. There is a top and bottom side to the bushing, or there used to be.


However-if we are talking about crunching necks down into the case in a FL die, I would check the bushing ID and the case neck OD and if they were not too different I would double check the ID of the bushing in question as compared to what is stamped on it and then if that were OK I would look at the die to be sure it was concentric. Finally, I would contact the very nice and helpful folks at Redding.
 
Assuming proper lube and etc....

It would be nice to know what S die we are discussing--FL or neck and what the bushing ID is and the case neck OD. I use several S dies of both types on several cartridges and I do not recall that Redding ever recommended backing out the bushing retainer two full turns--that seems excessive and could cause the problem that you are experiencing in a neck die when used with a tight inside diameter bushing as compared with the outside diameter of the case neck after firing. This could be seen especially when the die is being used on a "C" or "O" type press which does not allow the die bushing to center the case. Redding specifically instructed users how to choose the appropriate bushing as compared with fired case neck OD in the instruction sheet that came with my dies. If you do not have the sheet, Redding's tech tips section of their website may be of some use to you. A Rockchucker is a "C" type press if memory serves.

The idea of allowing the bushing to be a TINY bit loose is to allow the caseneck to form in a sort of inverted funnel which helps to guide the cartridge into the chamber neck space. The way I learned how to do it was to lightly tighten the bushing retainer until you could hear no rattling when you shake the die. Then you back out the retainer only enough to hear a bit of a rattle. I find this to be a useful procedure when forming cases to be used in an auto loader. I do not find it necessary nor even desirable for use with cases to be loaded in bolt rifles. There is a top and bottom side to the bushing, or there used to be.


However-if we are talking about crunching necks down into the case in a FL die, I would check the bushing ID and the case neck OD and if they were not too different I would double check the ID of the bushing in question as compared to what is stamped on it and then if that were OK I would look at the die to be sure it was concentric. Finally, I would contact the very nice and helpful folks at Redding.

Hey Sinister, thanks for the feed back. Here are the pictures that I have of my set up and the crunched casings. I'm using the die on a Rockchucker. The bushing and die are indeed .308 win. I dont know what else to do! Thanks for your help.

IMG_3238.jpg
IMG_3240.jpg
IMG_3239.jpg

IMG_3238.jpg

IMG_3240.jpg

IMG_3238.jpg

IMG_3240.jpg

IMG_3239.jpg
 
I think that for a "happily ever after" end to your problem, you should click this link:
<broken link removed> ---this is where to start --you may end up doing this with a tech over the phone as your info by post, while boasting a very good photographic technique, is not giving us the measurements and other data we need to address the problem--IMHO

PS-- in my experience the techs at Redding are very helpful and polite and never snickered even once at any stupid question I asked......
 
I think that for a "happily ever after" end to your problem, you should click this link:
<broken link removed> ---you may end up doing this with a tech over the phone as your info by post, while boasting a very good photographic technique, is not giving us the measurements we need to address the problem--IMHO

lol, will do. Thanks sinister.
 
Bushings are not marked for a specific caliber. The number on them is what the outside diameter of the case will be after it is resized. Depending on the wall thickness of the cases you are using, you should be using a bushing that is marked .328 to .335, give or take a little depending on how much neck tension you want. If your bushing is marked .308, that could be the problem.

So how did I come up with .328 for a bushing size? Take the bullet size, .308 and add the thickness of the neck times 2. If the neck wall measures .012, you take .308 + .024 = .332 However that would give you no neck tension, so you have to use a smaller bushing or the bullet just drops into the case. You also have to figure the brass will spring back about .001, so the above measurements with a .328 bushing would give you .003 of neck tension to hold the bullet in place. (Hopefully I did my math right.)

This may or may not be the problem, but if you have minimal lube on the necks during the resizing, it sure could cause the problems you took a picture of.
 
I think Otter has it. I use the Redding type S FL dies for my .260 Rem. I took actual measurements so you can see how it works. I'm starting with a .264 bullet and have turned my necks to a thickness of .013. So .264 for the bullet + .013 for each side of the neck = .290" I use a .287 bushing which gives me about .002 neck tension with the extra .001 being the brass springing back. Typically you set neck tension around .002 to .003" Hope this helps
 

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