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That right there is still one of the most beautiful M-1A's I have seen, that stock has such nice figuring and just the right satin sheen to it, how could any one NOT love a rifle like that?!?!?!

It is a beautiful stock, but up close, it doesn't have the truly finished finish I want. It needs some high grit finish sanding (still has some 'fuzz' from the factory) and needs something to seal it - just haven't decided if I want to do BLO, tung oil or something else yet. I love the color as is, and don't want to alter that in any way, just give a nice finish coat to seal the wood.
 
etrain16 I usually final finish with spar urethane after a good rub down with 000 grade steel wool, and then rub by hand and final finish with the same steel wool again. It makes for a tough finish that looks correct but will not absorb any thing! I know it's not "correct" and many will take issue with it, but for a rifle that was never issued, it shouldn't matter! Here is my BM-59 with this finish!
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etrain16 I usually final finish with spar urethane after a good rub down with 000 grade steel wool, and then rub by hand and final finish with the same steel wool again. It makes for a tough finish that looks correct but will not absorb any thing! I know it's not "correct" and many will take issue with it, but for a rifle that was never issued, it shouldn't matter! Here is my BM-59 with this finish!
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Spar is primarily for marine applications isn't it? I have considered doing a rubbed poly finish, which I've used on wood I've finished before - I like the satin finish they have available and it does seal the wood nicely. I do expect it would likely darken the finish just a bit, but hopefully wouldn't harm that beautiful color. As for the sanding, I usually finish sand up to 400 grit, do the first coat, dry, then a second, then hit it with 400 grit again, then maybe 2 more coats. After that, I do like a 0000 steel wool to knock down any shine that might be there - just don't want a really glossy finish.

Since I've not used spar urethane, would there be much difference between that and poly?
 
Without checking out any other posts I'd say, Yes, the M1A is dying in the market. It's always been expensive and heavy, plus it's not easy nor cheap to modify. Those reasons say it's outlived it's "usefulness".

My opinion? Cool! Maybe I can finally get one without having to sell my organs. It's a gun on my "hit list".
 
Spar is primarily for marine applications isn't it? I have considered doing a rubbed poly finish, which I've used on wood I've finished before - I like the satin finish they have available and it does seal the wood nicely. I do expect it would likely darken the finish just a bit, but hopefully wouldn't harm that beautiful color. As for the sanding, I usually finish sand up to 400 grit, do the first coat, dry, then a second, then hit it with 400 grit again, then maybe 2 more coats. After that, I do like a 0000 steel wool to knock down any shine that might be there - just don't want a really glossy finish.

Since I've not used spar urethane, would there be much difference between that and poly?
Not much difference at all. I do find the Spar finish penetrates a little better, and doesn't change the color at all ( unless you want it to) I have mixed in different stains to various projects for getting the color I wanted. I find Red Mahogany does the best mix and I use it mixed 50/50 with the Spar to get the end result the way I want. Nice thing about the spar is the way you can tune it, you can build it up with fewer coats, and can also choose a flat or a semi flat finish that really matches Mil spec finishes well.
 
Not much difference at all. I do find the Spar finish penetrates a little better, and doesn't change the color at all ( unless you want it to) I have mixed in different stains to various projects for getting the color I wanted. I find Red Mahogany does the best mix and I use it mixed 50/50 with the Spar to get the end result the way I want. Nice thing about the spar is the way you can tune it, you can build it up with fewer coats, and can also choose a flat or a semi flat finish that really matches Mil spec finishes well.

Good to know! Maybe I'll get some and give it a try. Any preferred brand?
 
Don't use steel on your stock, polish with 600 grit wet/dry sand paper and Boiled Lindseed oil. Remove the stock & buttplate. After the first polish, wipe off the excess oil and let it dry. This will fill the poors in the wood. Then repeat the process 2 to three more times. You will end up with a beautiful GI finish stock. Make sure you clean the oil off the front metal after each coat. My stock maker Buddy that helped our DCM/CMP club tought a class for us. He said use of steel wool to fill poors in the wood will cause rust stains over time.

I've used steel wool finishing other wood projects, haven't run into rust issues, but I can see that it's a potential for an issue.
 
I find the Min Wax spray works well, and better is the can with flannel patches! There are others that work just as well, but I find the Min Wax seems easier to apply and you can get the tiny cans of stain to go with them and make your own custom blend as needed! Clean up is a breeze as well.
 
No, not dying. There will always be a market for them among riflemen. The M1A is a rifleman's rifle. It takes more skill to shoot, and more effort to keep in tune but for those who don't mind such things it is well worth it. I bought an M1A Loaded last year. I did all the recommended upgrades short of bedding barrel into stock (unitized the cylinder, put in a Sadlak guide rod, etc) and now I compete with it in Highpower and CMP matches.
I'm the only one I've ever seen so far shooting .308 in Highpower, but when I send one down range all the AR guys sure know it. :D
 
No, not dying. There will always be a market for them among riflemen. The M1A is a rifleman's rifle. It takes more skill to shoot, and more effort to keep in tune but for those who don't mind such things it is well worth it. I bought an M1A Loaded last year. I did all the recommended upgrades short of bedding barrel into stock (unitized the cylinder, put in a Sadlak guide rod, etc) and now I compete with it in Highpower and CMP matches.
I'm the only one I've ever seen so far shooting .308 in Highpower, but when I send one down range all the AR guys sure know it. :D
:s0101:

There it is, in a nutshell!
Those of us that can score a hit at longer ranges want a tool that facilitates that activity!
Also, a number of us trained, qualified and were issued M-14's in the military. Yes! I know! It's the Oooold military! I qualified expert, at 97/100 and I'm danged proud of it! I carried one in the Korean DMZ and it was a great comfort. So, my personal loyalty to the rifle knows no bounds!
I own and like AR's, they are great for so many things!
However, to paraphrase Crocodile Dundee, "That's no rifle!" "This is a rifle!" :D

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I'm sort of like Sgt here, I was issued an M-21 for a while and learned to love it, especially when having to fight an enemy who had learned to stay out side 400 meters on ya and lob 7.62 at you with little fear of getting any return fire! M-21 sure ended that habit right quick!:)
 
I'm sort of like Sgt here, I was issued an M-21 for a while and learned to love it, especially when having to fight an enemy who had learned to stay out side 400 meters on ya and lob 7.62 at you with little fear of getting any return fire! M-21 sure ended that habit right quick!:)

An M-21 build is my next project gun. :)
 
I didn't serve in the military like a number of the fine folks here, but I still appreciate a fine weapon. The M1A has a kind of cool and history to it that some others simply don't have. I do like AR's, glad I own them, as they have their own kind of cool. But when it comes to guns like the M1 Garand and the civilian M14 aka the M1A, I just have to say they are a deeper level of cool, and a piece I am very happy to own! Now, I still need to get that M1 back in my grubby little hands again!
 

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