I need help with my AR.

[EPS]

OK.
My guess is that you probably ran it a little dry on the maiden voyage ?
If yes, then hose it down with CLP and run some full power ammo through it.
Preferably some Lake City XM193 or M855....the PMC is OK as long as the box does not say .223

Give it a good blast with this, then run some full power ammo through it.
View attachment 345797
I think even Wally World has it.

Yes that's what I use on mine and Walmart has it

 

[Cameron72]

A new firearm can be tight and needs to be broken in. The chamber need to be cleaned so your brass will extract. The bolt and BCG can be broken in by hand.

 

[DirectDrive]

A new firearm can be tight and needs to be broken in. The chamber need to be cleaned so your brass will extract. The bolt and BCG can be broken in by hand.

Good point.
I wonder if the OP did a "new gun cleaning" prior to the range trip ?

 

[1990Turbo]

Good point.
I wonder if the OP did a "new gun cleaning" prior to the range trip ?

Um I am gonna claim stupidity on that one. I wasnt planning on going shooting yesterday when my daughter said can we go shooting today. I grabbed my things and took off down the road. So no I did not. But will be doing this today.

 

[1990Turbo]

A new firearm can be tight and needs to be broken in. The chamber need to be cleaned so your brass will extract. The bolt and BCG can be broken in by hand.

How do I go about breaking in the bolt and bcg by hand?

 

[bolus]

How do I go about breaking in the bolt and bcg by hand?

Firing it is a lot better and faster for break in. When I made an AK47 the bolt was locking just a bit tightly and I could not rack it by hand. So I got a rubber mallet and pounded on the charging handle like 300 times and it was marginally better. Then I went and shot it and now it is smooth as butter (well, Russian butter which must have chucks of glass in it). But a few mags worked a ton better than pounding on the thing for a few hours.

 

[EPS]

I don't think anyone said this but it could also be problem with the trigger or hammer binding up check your trigger pins make sure there the right ones and are in there right

 

[SA Shooter]

To break in that bcg and charging handle by hand, lube it all real good then charge the rifle, dry fire, charge the rifle, dry fire, charge the rifle, dry fire ... ad nauseum. I'm guessin' here but 50 iterations should be enough.

Then lube it again good and hit the range.

 

[1990Turbo]

Thank you all so much for the tips and tricks. Im gonna go home and learn how to take it apart and clean and oil it and hopefully go try it again!

 

[EPS]

Thank you all so much for the tips and tricks. Im gonna go home and learn how to take it apart and clean and oil it and hopefully go try it again!

YouTube there are hundreds of video of people showing how to work on guns if you get lost or you can find some good books that explains everything you need to know about AR RIFLE

 

[HB of CJ]

Lots of fuzzy answers. A few good ones. Like already said by SA Shooter and others, first make sure the gun is NOT LOADED.

We must assume the build was function tested before leaving the factory. But possibly not either. Conduct the following test.

Empty the rifle. Remove ALL lube from everyplace. You want the build bone dry for this. Place the muzzle on the floor.

Support with both shoes. Change and fry fire. Leave you finger down on the trigger. Recharge the rifle. Release the trigger.

You should feel the disconnecter working. A distinct "click". There must be no trigger rebound. Just the normal reset.

Hand charge the handle and repeat this at least 100 times. Charge, dry fire, release the trigger, re charge, dry fire ...

Open the rifle. You will smell hot metal. Good. Pull and examine the bolt carrier group. You will see gray like paste.

Examine the inside of the upper. You will see and smell more gray paste. You have just lapped in the action. Good.

Remove all the residue and heavily re lube everything. Then repeat the process 100 times. Factory testing not done?

Now compare the smoothness of the action compared with before. Should be much smoother. Pull the buffer group.

Examine the buffer stop group. Examine the buffer for nicks or gouges. Re assemble. We assume the head space is right.

Again, all of this should have been done at the factory. But this is a quick easy way of perhaps fixing your gun yourself.

Hope this helps. If the new rifle still does not cycle, then call the factory. It could be many things. No sears in a AR15.

hundreds of AR15 builds.

 

[EPS]

Lots of fuzzy answers. A few good ones. Like already said by SA Shooter and others, first make sure the gun is NOT LOADED.

We must assume the build was function tested before leaving the factory. But possibly not either. Conduct the following test.

Empty the rifle. Remove ALL lube from everyplace. You want the build bone dry for this. Place the muzzle on the floor.

Support with both shoes. Change and fry fire. Leave you finger down on the trigger. Recharge the rifle. Release the trigger.

You should feel the disconnecter working. A distinct "click". There must be no trigger rebound. Just the normal reset.

Hand charge the handle and repeat this at least 100 times. Charge, dry fire, release the trigger, re charge, dry fire ...

Open the rifle. You will smell hot metal. Good. Pull and examine the bolt carrier group. You will see gray like paste.

Examine the inside of the upper. You will see and smell more gray paste. You have just lapped in the action. Good.

Remove all the residue and heavily re lube everything. Then repeat the process 100 times. Factory testing not done?

Now compare the smoothness of the action compared with before. Should be much smoother. Pull the buffer group.

Examine the buffer stop group. Examine the buffer for nicks or gouges. Re assemble. We assume the head space is right.

Again, all of this should have been done at the factory. But this is a quick easy way of perhaps fixing your gun yourself.

Hope this helps. If the new rifle still does not cycle, then call the factory. It could be many things. No sears in a AR15.

hundreds of AR15 builds.

Lol that's great advice but in like is second post he said this is his first AR and he doesn't know much about them so pretty much most of the stuff you told him went right over his head just saying LOL

 

[PiratePast40]

Hope you find the problem quick and can get back out and burn up more ammo. Welcome to our addictio....., oops, er....I mean hobby!

 

[DirectDrive]

OP, remember this....
When you have the upper and lower receivers separated, don't play with the trigger and let the hammer free-fall against the mag well.
If you want to work the trigger, you want to catch the hammer.

hundreds of AR builds
got 3 working so far

 

[EPS]

OP, remember this....
When you have the upper and lower receivers separated, don't play with the trigger and let the hammer free-fall against the mag well.
If you want to work the trigger, you want to catch the hammer.

hundreds of AR builds
got 3 working so far

Good advice and here is why it will damage your lower and your bolt catch will not work when the lower is bent GO AHEAD ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS HEHEH

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

check the gas block. lube the hell out of the bolt carrier group, charging handle and spray a little bit on the buffer spring. cycle the charging handle 20-30...50 times and re try. ARs like to be run lubed. oh, make sure the gas key is tight and the gas rings arent FUBAR'd

anyone ever notice the smell of an AR (i think its the charging handle, could just be the new parts in general) after cycling when its new? a burnt smell... i cycle mine till that smell goes away and have never had a problem on a new rifle

 

[parallax]

split your upper and lower.. make sure something has not broke inside your lower trigger group. ( never dry fire a trigger group with upper and lower split, without physically catching the hammer., or it will break your mag well) look for any debris that might have fallen in there.. I once was shooting someones reloads and a spent primer came out of the case and fell down inside my trigger group and made it stop functioning properly.
P.S. tell us what you found so we all don't go insane.

 

[EPS]

check the gas block. lube the hell out of the bolt carrier group, charging handle and spray a little bit on the buffer spring. cycle the charging handle 20-30...50 times and re try. ARs like to be run lubed. oh, make sure the gas key is tight and the gas rings arent FUBAR'd

anyone ever notice the smell of an AR (i think its the charging handle, could just be the new parts in general) after cycling when its new? a burnt smell... i cycle mine till that smell goes away and have never had a problem on a new rifle

I got very bad smoke and burned smell with new barrel and again with new BCG

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

I got very bad smoke and burned smell with new barrel and again with new BCG

yeah ive had that too! i think its most likely oil burning off.


im talkin bout the smell while cycling the gun by hand without shooting it. every AR ive ever built has had the same smell. maybe its the coating on the parts scraping off on the bearing surfaces? anyway, i cycle them manually until that smell goes away then i fire them.

 

[DirectDrive]

One more thing OP, don't hose it with lube in the chamber or in the bore.
After I clean the chamber and bore I want to end up with just a trace of oil film in those areas.
The carrier tunnel, BCG area.....give it a good shot of CLP before you light it up.
And periodically give it a shot of CLP at the range when it gets to looking dry.

Here's a most excellent document on AR care and feeding put together by "Quib" (Weapon Evolution) and others.
With your problem child, it won't hurt to blast it with CLP as stated above and get it running.
When it's running reliably you can use Quib's detail lubing instructions.
http://freepdfhosting.com/f5ce6c0677.pdf