I need an idea on what rings/mounting to use on an AR 15....

[Mikej]

I just picked up a Vortex Cross-Fire II 2-7 X 32 scope for my AR. Not sure what rings/mount to get. When I built Wifey's rifle I put a one piece mount on it. Don't remember price or brand now. I think I'd like to stay with a one piece. No reason, I don't think? For going with a $100.00 plus set-up. Is there? A quick search brought this up. https://warnescopemounts.com/v4001m-1-inch-1-piece-msr-mount-matte/
Any comments appreciated.

Note: My Desktop is dying. It has been sketchy getting on line. New computer isn't coming for a week +/-. So response might be slow.
Thanks!

Read More

 

[parallax]

I like your choice.. it's a solid 1 piece that hopefully is bore aligned so it won't damage your scope ( could run a lapping bar through it to check) Looks low enough so you dont get any weird barrel bore to aperture zero issues and easily removable and will probably will hold zero if you re- install it in the same upper rail locations/ slots.

 

[Joe13]

Make sure the size of the rings are the same size as the tube of your scope.

 

[Nosferatu]

That mount should work just fine for the scope you've selected.

The only slight I could find is that the rings are only a single screw per side, I typically prefer a 2-screw ring. It probably won't make a difference on a .223 though. Just make sure you loctite them and give them a periodic torque check.

 

[DirectDrive]

On an AR it's typically a cantilevered one piece mount.
This is because it's a no-no to put the forward ring on the handguard.
A cantilevered mount keeps the rings attached to the receiver only.

 

[Caveman Jim]

Most companies that sell Vortex scopes generally have combo dealers with mounts. Mine did.

 

[Mikej]

Nice guys! Just what I wanted to hear.

That mount was just the first one that popped up. I'll look around some more too.

One inch tube.

Makes total sense that you don't want one ring on the hand guard.

I should have an inch # torque screwdriver just for the fun of it. Not much money on Amazon and wouldn't get a lot of use anyway.

Most companies that sell Vortex scopes generally have combo dealers with mounts. Mine did.

This came from Midsouth and was free shipping, without a mount.

 

[monkeybutler]

On an AR it's typically a cantilevered one piece mount.
This is because it's a no-no to put the forward ring on the handguard.
A cantilevered mount keeps the rings attached to the receiver only.

View attachment 1932396

Right, but that particular mount is a POS from many accounts.

 

[DirectDrive]

Right, but that particular mount is a POS from many accounts.

"For demonstration purposes only"

 

[powermad]

Warne makes nice mounts, can't go wrong with the one you linked.

 

[PORSCHE928S4]

On an AR it's typically a cantilevered one piece mount.
This is because it's a no-no to put the forward ring on the handguard.
A cantilevered mount keeps the rings attached to the receiver only.

View attachment 1932396

I have three of these and they work great the price is not painful and put the scope at the proper height

 

[ron]

For mounting a scope on an AR rifle you need to have the scope cantilevered forward
and have correct height for a good cheek weld on the stock. This mount makes the height
of the scope to copy an A2 rear sight height. I use the Freedom Reaper one piece mount.
NO LOCTITE NEEDED! I have 3 of these in 30 mm.

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[Spitpatch]

Never Loctite ring screws.

If it ever seems necessary (scope is moving inside the rings), you've done something wrong in the mounting procedure.

Not even this one needs it:


Siamese Mauser conversion to .45-70, Leupold 1.5-5x on QD rings and mounts, NECG Express Sights. Launches a 350gr LaFranck Heavy Jacket Spitzer at 2250fps. Loctite belongs on the mount screws to the action. NEVER on the ring screws.

 

[Spitpatch]

More to the OP's question, a cantilever mount is not necessary for an AR either (depending on ergonomics for you as an individual).

I found that two rings on the rail works best for me, as I like a scope as close to the bore as possible. Initial tryouts of this arrangement suggested the charging handle was inconvenient to reach under the eyepiece of the scope. A side lever (they said it was "TACTICAL"!) on the charging handle solved this toot sweet.

Eye relief is perfect, as is cheek weld, even with a Magpul buttstock that was added later.



DPMS AP-4. Leupold 3x-9x Ultralight. Nearly 20 years now of rough riding on an ATV, and the one firearm I treat like a Crescent Wrench. Never loses zero (and no Loctite on the rings either).

 

[NeoBlackdog]

I've got a Burris PEPR mount on one of the AR's and it works great.

 

[JRuby]

I use a burris PEPR mount on all three of mine. Seems to work well.

 

[Mikej]

All of this is most helpful. I'll be deciding on a cantilever mount, of some kind. Possible the one I linked, or the one @ron suggested that looks indestructible.
I looked up the Burris mount. I don't really care for/need the the extra mounting positions.

 

[ron]

I have used the Burris mount. It mounts the
scope too high. I want a good cheek weld on
the stock. Consistent eye placement shot
after shot is key to accuracy.

 

[NeoBlackdog]

I have used the Burris mount. It mounts the
scope too high. I want a good cheek weld on
the stock. Consistent eye placement shot
after shot is key to accuracy.

Mine puts it in exactly the right place. Either you have a skinny face or mines a bit chubby!

 

[powermad]

Scope mounts are not one size fit's all I found out.
I started with 1.4", 1.5" and 1.6" tall ones and they didn't work for me.
Got a .5" riser and with the 1.4" it all came together.
I have 1.93" tall ones now on everything, red dot has a 1.8" centerline.
Gives me a solid, consistent cheekweld in all positions now, don't have to squirm around trying to get a sight picture.
It made the tight eyebox of a 1-8 scope easier to deal with when my eye is naturally lined up with the exit pupil.