I did not have relations with that lathe

[kopcicle]

kopcicle,
I can't find anything attached to the lathe, other than a, "Feed Plate", but the lube chart describes it as a 12" metal working lathe. The (ring bound) Operator's manual is not model specific and has a lot of "Archaic" pictures in it. I was given the lathe by a friend who was given it by his mother-in-law.
Jack

usually the tag will be on the far right (tailstock end) in your case something like 101. 07xxxxx.
Or PM some additional pics.

 

[kopcicle]

I'll get to the lathe in a bit. but first.

found this for $50 plus the ride

 

[kopcicle]

Most of what I will do will fit on this little beauty.
I do have a 6" but it eats into my Zed.

 

[Capn Jack]

Found it ! "101.27580
The tag was under the power cord I had hung off of the tail stock.

 

[kopcicle]

To go with my MT1 taper tailstock .

https://www.msdiscounttool.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=3721

MT2 will almost double the cost but still a good deal.
I was surprised by the quality of this little thing.
Release, turn until lock, and SOLID.
No slop, none, nada, zilch.

 

[kopcicle]

Found it ! "101.27580
The tag was under the power cord I had hung off of the tail stock.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/6958.pdf

 

[kopcicle]

Did find a few unique pieces recently. All MT2

 

[kopcicle]

So this is the dearly departed lathe. You can ask (in PM) but i suggest you don't.

For any attempting anything in the small lathe category the first upgrade is a QCTP. Quick Change Tool Post. Further do not get the piston type, get the wedge type.

Keep the lantern post around because there is nothing quite like getting right over the top of your compound pivot without the offset that the tool post creates. When in heavy cuts or in larger diameter or interrupted cuts you will need and want the additional stability.

 

[TNThomas]

You have some beautiful machines! Thanks for sharing your adventures and info! Im a little ways out from getting into machining, but currently gathering info here and there to jump in. Keep up the good work! I live fairly close to you if your in Seattle.

Ill offer up a great playlist while you are working away from a band called "Public Service Broadcasting." Very cool video as well:

 

[kopcicle]

There isn't a whole lot that I can add to the Duro/Benchmaster legacy and history that Tony hasn't accumulated.

Duro & Benchmaster Milling Machines

Duro & Benchmaster Milling Machines. Sold as the

www.lathes.co.uk

What I can add is my unique journey of scraping and or mapping (or both) the dovetail ways into some kind of predictable accuracy.

Accuracy/precision ? We've all been through that before so I'll avoid it here.

However discovering actual position in relation to indicated precision is nothing new.
prior to glass or magnetic scales there was the process of correction tables applied to a piece of machinery. Moore jig borer used a variation of this process. Those in the tool and die, mold making trades will remember. Here is a fairly clear (as mud) patent publication that his on most of the points.

https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/02/29/0a/ed08f7693d2c2c/US20210001446A1.pdf

This will be creation of validated gauges across the work space to separate indicated from actual position when scraping and aligning of the ways is impractical. Fortunately most of the pieces can be examined and adjusted in hand, on a bench without the need for heavy lifting.

The one area where a dovetail machine is crippled by design is numerically controlled adaptive milling operations . In lay speak they don't like to be dithered about in small, rapid, repeated, movements. The shortfall being the tendency being to break down the lubricating film in the ways.

One of the first long term uses of the Benchmaster will be to make the pieces of a follow on linear slide and ball screw multi mill that doesn't suffer from the limitations of dovetail ways.

In the short term the mill will be used to perform routine manufacturing and maintenance tasks. I have a love of motorcycles and firearms that will consume most of the interim project list as well as keeping the machine free and flexible enough to accept one off job machining.

Eventually I'll branch these two machines into their own threads but for now, on to the lathe.

 

[kopcicle]

So begins the story of replacing my dearly departed Atlas 6" lathe.

 

[kopcicle]

As advertised

 

[kopcicle]

As delivered and the beginning of the tear down. Getting the spindle apart was an all day sucker. Initially I thought it was just years of neglect. It turned out to be a manufacturing aberration. The carriage traverse pinion was documented in the sale and expected. The mildly mangled spindle was another story.
Finally the entire headstock was disassembled and ready for inspection.

 

[kopcicle]

The 101.00 Atlas did indeed have tapered roller bearings.
The 101.212 Craftsman uses 6305 deep groove ball bearings
the 10100 uses the 701-088 spindle
The 101.212 uses the 701-083 spindle
30305 Timken would accomplish the the swap but..
They are 18.250 mm wide
If you want 17mm wide use the 237 cone -233 cup and shell out $2k for the pair.
The issue with the swap isn't the width however
How do you preload the bearings? The 701-083 spindle has no threaded preload nut .
Practical consideration is tale of the axial clearance of the 6205 you intend to use.

Getting the back gear off was , umm, yeah well. Use your imagination and at least an entire afternoon.

Filthy but nothing broken. I did have a minor hiccup in the F/R tumbler gears and lever. The detent and spring in the lever is irrevocably seized in place and one of the tumbler gears seized to the shaft and the rivet is turning in the plate.
The lead screw is free, not bent or otherwise abused.
Even with the setscrews removed the collar would not budge. Finally forcing a putty knife between the gear and the collar started it moving. There was actually a whole previous evolution that I don't have pics for.
The direct drive coupling , 141-030 had been attacked by flying monkeys with hammers , pliers and bad intent.
The circlip retaining the direct drive coupling , 141-030, had somehow been peened into place by the same flying monkeys.
Once the mangled part in question had finally been removed from the shaft it was on to the woodruff key and some sort of age hardening shmoo that gave off an odor reminiscent of spoiled meat when heated.
Now we are on to the removal of the 3950-14 spindle pulley assembly.
Even after careful stoning of the spindle and somewhat haphazardly measuring the diameter of the spindle to make sure it hadn't put on weight or diameter over the years I proceeded to attempt to remove the spindle pulley assembly.
The inner bushing stayed behind. 400gr sanding strip had to be applied to the spindle in order to remove the remaining bushing.
Now we're on to the spindle back gear.
Keep in mind here that I had a large selection of prying and stabby things and little else for this operation.
You can get behind the gear somewhat with a large flat blade screw driver and rotate, stab, pry, repeat.
Being careful not to pry anywhere near the gear teeth and applying force through only the thickest portions of the headstock casting the bugger finally moved. Eventually this too stopped short of the end of the spindle and a bit more 400gr was used to reduce the diameter of the spindle further.
Somewhere along the way I seemed to have missed the fact that bearings that appeared to be "Completely Knackered" had now taken on the aspect of perfectly serviceable bearings. I'll have to very closely take a look at the assembly to determine what Murphy snuck in on me.
Compared to all of this the removal of the spindle with the chuck side bearing still attached and it's subsequent removal is only the mater of an hour or so of alternating heating , cooling, swearing and tears.
There is one more thing...

 

[kopcicle]

The aforementioned flying monkeys with hammers , pliers and bad intent had in fact caused the random disappearance of two teeth from the M6-68 pinion shaft.
I'm waiting on a few parts from Joel and some monkey repellent from the publishers of the Satanic Bible.
I doubt I'll ever do the tapered roller bearing conversion unless I have to do a bunch of fine facing operations.
Believe me, it is possible to the point of certainty that you can set up a high frequency resonance in the axial plain of the spindle simply by banging the roller bearings back and forth. The noise is rich in harmonics which distinguishes it from ordinary high frequency tool chatter.

Lunch time and the beer is here and I have to be ready to repel flying monkeys with hammers , pliers and bad intent at a moment's notice.

 

[kopcicle]

As this arrives

 

[Paolung]

@It-That

 

[kopcicle]

So the parts keep coming in.

The federal test indicator is a welcome addition.



The armature chucks are not only useful but an original Atlas accessory. Tom (Clausing) still has a few sets NOS.

The collet chuck comes for Joel. I think I've been over this before. Most do not get the 1" registration correct.

[rant]No , "the backing plate does(not)register on the threads." The backing plate registers on the shoulder and 1" diameter. [/rant]

littlemachineshop.com gets it right. Carl Siechert understands. So just get the good backing plate or make your own. Today I'm un, re, de, modeling a room and nothing further to report other than we are well (mostly) and cantankerous as ever .


And so it goes...

 

[kopcicle]

I'm getting construction help from the usual suspects.

Tooling , unique and ubiquitous is from Joel @ mymachineshop.net

If you make chips you need to know these guys

Standard Cutting Solutions | End Mills | End Mill Cutters |

Standard Cutting Solutions manufactures industrial cutting tools including drilling applications, milling applications and specialty tools. Factory direct pricing & American made.




Service parts for the lathe are from [email protected]

The machine shipping is through Fastenal, Blue Lane. Michelle is great to work with.

Additional support from https://www.facebook.com/groups/956121484439805 The atlas group on FaceBook

Robert Downs WA5CAB and the members of https://www.hobby-machinist.com

These guys do amazing things in miniature and have been a great help.

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Home model engine machinists & makers forum. Model engine making forums for engine plans, castings, CAD, CNC designs, lathe, Stirling, boilers & steam.

www.homemodelenginemachinist.com




Many thanks to the patient and humorous knowledge of the members at https://groups.io/g/atlas-craftsman

I can't do these things without family.
Mom
Keith
John
Joel Rogers
Ben
Sinon
Ryan
Rob
Jim
Jack
Dave
Dick Russell (SK)
Highsider, Scott
Jason
Crazy pj
Gary Goetz
Travis
Mrriggs, Brett
Chris , how do you put up with me ?
Dennis (SK)
Morrie Burkman(SK)
Jim Burknman
Ken Austin
John Holloway
Fantom the wonder dog
The entire XS650 community.
And a cast of thousands. You know who you are ;-)

And very special Thank You to Wonder Woman for putting up with me.

Okay , so it reads like a rehearsed acceptance speech. It needed to be said. Again it's my thread and I can do what I want with it.

So starts another chapter in
Meanwhile, out in the garage.
And so it goes ...

 

[kopcicle]

I'm back to making valve guides on borrowed equipment.
Note on OS Valve Guides to the forum.
Previously I could, if you were polite enough, if I could find the material, If you could afford me, (I am not a slut, I am however a bit of a whore) Make oversize valve guides.
The issue often arises in older performance machinery that the guides have been in and out so many times that the head won't hold them any longer. With all the time and money in post cast machining and porting in these heads it makes sense to make the guides.
I'm in no position to take on any work atm but I will share some information.
Do your material research. Different steels have widely different frictional coefficients.
Match your sliding bits carefully.
Choose your tooling carefully. For instance a smaller lathe will not carry the chip load of a profile cutter. I use a floating reamer holder that formerly was used for a chamber reamer driver. (Yes I do that kind of work too and you can't afford me) .
Concentricity is not always your friend. In well worn or heavily modified heads there are occasions where a ID concentric with the OD will result in a valve seat to valve fit so awful that even sinking the valve .030 to .060" won't get full contact.
I have a number of reamers , fixed and adjustable, that I use to gauge and clean up guide bores in the head. I try to follow the bore as best i can and still have seat mismatches. This is why I like to have the head in hand when doing these jobs.
I can purposely mix axial and radial misalignment to get the valve to seal.
Truth be known I learned this by examining my "scrap" . I'm not always perfect, not by a long shot. Even when I do get it right there are still tolerances. When I couldn't get a concentric guide to locate a valve I dialed in a "mistake" guide and indexed its angle.
I took advantage of one misalignment to solve another .
If you've read this far I'll tell you that I have little to no misalignment between bore and OD anymore. It was a simple enough trick but I hesitate to share it publicly. It's not an intellectual property or a trade secret but it has uniquely been the cause of some of the more vehement conversations I've experienced . Feel free to ask in PM . I really do have no problem answering.
Lastly , tools are your friend. I don't count reamers , I weigh them. Measuring and indicating instruments you can trust are essential. Temperature and heat control are important. An extensive tool "library" can save large amounts of time. Find a relaxed and comfortable position for these operations, you'll be in or near that position for hours at a time without realizing it.
The photo below is how this all started. I made one guide for my 1000P and was caught out by a fellow mechanic. I've since added a wedge lock QCTP, collet chuck, MT2 collets reamed to size, and tailstock live center support. Finding a live center that wasn't crap was an ordeal. New headstock bearings were not cheap. I got good ones.
The original gibs were plastic??!! I finally did get this all inside .0006(5)" across the first 3" of travel and well inside .001" across the entire center to center distance.
All for now