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Nice traps are non-lethal. There are allot of items one can make that wont hurt anyone.
I wont go into details about my own security on a open forum. But using devices you can make the would be intruder unsure whom is in the house, yard or property. One tip as an example is use a area motion sensor that runs on batteries they have motion lights, easy enough to use the light trigger to turn in a radio tape recorder playing your voice or a programmed light goes on inside the house in the area the motion was triggered. You can set these at various places and would make an intruder think they are not alone.
I have done allot of consulting and often times good deterrents or traps are far better then a pad lock.
Like a recording of Clint Eastwood from Gran Torino telling them to get off his lawn!!! :)
 
After studying some name brands, I went to the steel outfit and bought the needed plate and had the bends done, brought it home and welded it up, $300.00 later and rolling the 700lb's into it's place and lag bolted it into the log wall, Now I worry much less about valuables when not at home.

I learned a long time ago, if you are not rich, then make what you need. The safe will hold about 50 guns easily, 6 locking lugs, and a deadly system to stop any break in, by any person.

No brag, just fact.

Great Work! You must have saved a lot of bucks and the best part is most of the claims by gun safe manufacturers are often smoke and mirrors. But I hope you have it covered for insurance.

Gun safety is not the only reason to buy a gun safe.

Among the many myths about safes, one notable one is that "any gun safe is better than nothing". Just having thicker doors won't ensure safety. Many people make the mistake of not bolting it, thinking it to be very heavy.

Interestingly, a thief can browse for "safe cracking" or YouTube videos to learn how to get into a gun safe. Imposing looks may not be sufficient deterrents to criminals. Hype is futile. One cannot totally rely on burglar alarms.

Also, bear in mind that the position you choose for safe placement matters

(A Guide To The Best Places To Store Your Safe). Walls harder to pry open can benefit weaker gun safe. To some extent hides them.

Another aspect is the drywall (Sheetrock) as fire lining. Have you checked for the fire ratings?
 
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That said, when I retire and build my next residence, I plan to build a safe room that is a combination shelter and safe storage room.

Probably buy a vault door with thick steel/etc., and build a room around it with rebar reinforced concrete and an emergency exit in the back of it that can only be opened from the inside. Yes, it will have ventilation, etc.
 
Until I can build my own gun save/bank vault I came up with the next best thing. I found a hidden compartment in my house that with some trouble I can access & put my guns in cases and place in there. I dont bother unless I leave for a few weeks, but when I do leave, I put my guns & a few other valuables in there.

Then I leave out [in a closet] a cheap H&R shotgun and cheap KT pistol for the thieves to find so they think they "found" my guns.

I make sure my insurance is paid up then I go on my trip & don't worry about it.

~
 
I have no doubts that one can build a safe to specs with the right skills and a fair amount of extra time... But I don't think it's for everyone. The cost of safes nowadays is low enough that most people can afford a safe to hold the number of guns they might have and/or wish to have. Most of them come with a fire rating and water rating as well and that's at less than a cost of one gun (for many of us)
 
The body of the safe is not difficult to build. Its the door and internal hinges that make up the degree of difficulty. I have thought a few times about making my old first safe I bought yrs ago, a Jefferson Liberty Safe (they don't even make the Jeffersons anymore) bigger. Leave the door as is, but make it deeper and wider. Ran the numbers and time, and just bought another much bigger safe and kept the old one as is for long guns.
 
Well, they told me a long time ago that guns and alcohol don't mix. But why then did the government form an agency to oversee both? Dunno. And no it's not bear proof. I support the right to keep and arm bears.
 
Note to people who own one of these tin can safes. Pull it apart and rip out the interior and then weld up some re-bar that will fit in the sides, lay it on its side and fill the side with concrete.

Concrete is hydrophilic though. If you're going to line anything with rust prone metal there have to be vapour barriers installed on the wall and liner side or you'll be having to provide some form of constant dessication.
 

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