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A muzzleloading rifle is all you really need for deer and elk. I recommend .54 caliber for patched ball with about 80 grains of FFG blackpowder for deer and 90 to 100 grains FFG blackpowder for elk.

A good muzzle loading rifle for starting out is a percussion model, .54 caliber, 1/48 twist, with 28" length barrel. Factory options are the old Thompson Center Arms Co. Hawken rifle, the Lyman Trade Rifle, Pedersoli Hawken rifle, and InvestArms 120A or 120B models.

Check with your state and local muzzleloading and buckskinner organizations for local shoots and mentoring.
My cousin in MT said there is no longer a muzzle loading season because they have gotten so good they are no different than a modern-day 30-06. There is just bow&arrow season and gun season now.
 
Contact state legislators about starting up new muzzleloading firearms hunting seasons that are restricted to flintlock ignition, patched round ball, and real blackpowder. Game rules like that will eliminate the cheat guns from the hunting fields.

It may help if your cousin were to join a buckskinner group for numbers to write letters to legislators and attend public meetings with officials.
 
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My cousin in MT said there is no longer a muzzle loading season because they have gotten so good they are no different than a modern-day 30-06. There is just bow&arrow season and gun season now.
What if he took said '06 and reloaded it with a suitable bullet and blackpowder.
Would that qualify that gun as a "muzzle loader"?
 
Muzzleloading rifles require a powder horn and a possibles bag to carry necessary accoutrements like powder measure, short starter, patch worm, patch material, and ball.

 
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New to muzzleloading? This article in American Rifleman will help you get started.


This is also a good article from Norway. I really like their illustration on how to use a short starter. I just wish that they had an illustration showing that the ramrod is used to seat the patched ball on the powder charge.


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If you're anew hunter,

DO NOT shoot unless you know what's behind your aim. Never aim your gun at a hunter, using the scope to check them out.



Also, if by a stroke of luck you put something down... get to processing the meat right away. It's very difficult when you are new. Whatever you do, don't let that go to waste.

I advise finding an old guy who knows the game and is down a hunting partner.
 
Minimalist hunting gear 4 deer:
Gun, knife, tags. Binoculars will help big time when glassing clear cuts

Me: 30-06 a buck 110.

Now if you want to be warm… you get that stuff too and skies the limit on all the special backpacks clothing and gear you can buy.

Advice: stick to the areas near clear cuts and water sunrise and sunset hours
 
Any vehicle will do, I have gotten two in one try before.
They are not a very illusive animal.
Mature animals can be elusive in heavily hunted public land. This thread is from '11 and the OP only ever used the thumbs up emoji.

Wayyy back it was matches in oiled paper, salt in folded paper, knife, stone, possibly a hatchet, ammunition, rifle. I'm thinking late 1800's era.
 
I am about your height and about 140lbs. I love my 30-06. The recoil can be a bit much when I'm sitting down and shooting more then a box of ammo. Whatever gun you use check into getting a Limbsaver.
http://www.limbsaver.com/
I definitely second the advice for good boots. I haven't found that shooting from a bench does much for me for practice as a hunting application. Get out to the woods and practice some real world shooting. Kneeling in the dirt, standing for short range shots, stuff like that. Deer don't usually stand still in a flat field perfectly 100 yards away.
Great advise! Good boots can make or break a hunting trip.
 

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