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Would you use loctite? Blue?
 
Pro tip, if you have something like a optic mount or other attachment long enough to join the receiver rail and the hand guard rail together. Attach it to align them before completely tightening the nut.

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Pro tip, if you have something like a optic mount or other attachment long enough to join the receiver rail and the hand guard rail together. Attach it to align them before completely tightening the nut.

This is a cheap investment to line up rails, and also just for general gunsmithing.

 
Loctite's "grip" can be removed by applying heat, but taking a propane torch to a firearm isn't usually the best idea.

Yes, I know that, but it doesn't matter the risk is still there even if it is dry, especially when it is aluminum on aluminum. That is why the manual calls for anti-seize grease such as the AeroShell 33 MS mentioned above.
 
While that handguard jam nut has blue loctite applied at the factory it makes it difficult to remove later.
I read where one guy spun it off with a strap wrench, barrel nut and all.

Don't think I would use that type of attachment for a handguard when there are other options that are easier to install.
The Aero Quantum handguards are similar to that one except has no top rail other than a short removable section on the front.
Torque and time the barrel nut ,run down the screws and it's done.
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When you buy a complete RRA rifle you get "infected" with their furniture.
Commercial buffer tubes and Locited and generally heavy designs.

I wouldn't run out and buy any Rock River furniture separately.
If you already have it, that's another thing.
 
true that. i prefer using a reaction rod versus an upper vise block

I use a reaction rod to assemble because it is convenient and very flexible but for disassembly of an unknown build or stubborn barrel nut you are better off with an old school clam shell vise block or super reaction rod style that locks into the receiver as a regular reaction rod will put stress on the index pin, potentially shearing it off. Even then if the barrel nut is severely over-torqued or crusted on it may be required to Dremel cut off the barrel nut in order to save the upper.
 

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