How to remove hard rust spot. On 659 S&W

[.45's and .38's]

On the frame of my new 659, there is a couple pretty large brown rust spots on the front finger of the grip. Any help how to remove please?

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[.45's and .38's]

I see that people are looking and not responding. I know you guys know how to remove rust.

 

[SavageGerbil]

If standard guncleaning solvent isn't taking care of it you might need a mild abrasive, toothpaste (yea, I know it sounds crazy) sometimes works for mild rust stains, don't forget good cleaning after.

 

[.45's and .38's]

Thanks buddy. I knew you wouldn't leave me hanging.........

 

[terrylf72]

there is some good info here.. from refinishing my dads old truck gun.

http://www.northwestfirearms.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12775

 

[VinnieBoomBah]

Doesn't the "6" in "659" indicate that this is a stainless steel gun?

 

[Bon Sauvage]

Stainless Steel is not rust proof: merely corrosion resistant.

I have successfully used a small, steel wire brush (about the size of a toothbrush) to remove lead and powder fouling from the SS cylinder face of a Ruger SP101 with no damage to the cylinder. Perhaps this method would work for you.

I would remove the grips and and test the brush on a hidden piece of the steel, to ensure no damage, before I attacked the corrosion spot.

 

[deadeye]

Stainless Steel is not rust proof: merely corrosion resistant.

I have successfully used a small, steel wire brush (about the size of a toothbrush) to remove lead and powder fouling from the SS cylinder face of a Ruger SP101 with no damage to the cylinder. Perhaps this method would work for you.

I would remove the grips and and test the brush on a hidden piece of the steel, to ensure no damage, before I attacked the corrosion spot.

use a brass brush as to not leave regular steel residue behind plus it is softer to eliminate scratching.

 

[Gunner3456]

Without getting technical, rust is like cancer. It spreads into the pores and then comes back. You need to kill it chemically in addition to removing what you can see. Phosphoric acid will kill it and it's found in Naval Jelly and Rust Mort among other products.

I'd use a 3M red pad lightly soaked in one of those products. Be sure to wear gloves - nasty stuff. I haven't found anything better than the nitrile gloves at Harbor Freight.

As the rust converter works in several hours, it turns the rust black. That's a new harmless chemical which you will be buffing off. I'd buff off most of the rust before I started using the chemical because the new converted black chemical (can't think of the chemical name of it) is harder than the rust.

 

[huntpotter]

Brass bristle brush and CLP. Brass bristle brush and Kroil. Scotch brite pad and Kroil. I recently used some Flitz paste and brass brislte brush, that works too. A good soaking in Kroil will desolve rust too.

 

[Gunner3456]

With all due respect, Kroil is a penetrating oil. It will indeed help loosen stuck rusted parts and it's a wonderful lubricant. It's an excellent cleaner such as for gun bores. A lot of people won't use anything else to clean and lube guns.

It will not however kill rust. By that I mean it won't convert rust to a harmless chemical.

$.02

 

[.45's and .38's]

Thanks guys. I was going to post this But I might as well just bring it up here.
I got this 659 used, There are some scratches on the frame/right on the top of the slide. I think that the whole firearms, frame and slide is all stainless steel.
If it is, it really needs to be polished. It looks like the side of the slide is more polished then the rest of the gun. How much would it be to polish the stainless steel slide? Just a estimate? Either someone else, or myself?

 

[.45's and .38's]

I am reading flitz. Any help please.

 

[spider]

Flitz polish, i like the green goo kind, and a dremel with a felt wheel. go at it for like an hour, you'll be so happy you'll want to do your whole gun.