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I want to get into it to have a greater understanding of shooting. Not to save money but to up my knowledge of ballistics and shooting and a hobby for the winter weather.
Excellent perspective from @RVTECH. If you want to learn what makes firearms and ballistics tick, you are barking up the correct tree. Even if you don't save a penny you will learn more than you ever dreamed. I love physics and I had some great physics teachers. Nothing has ever been more fascinating to me than reloading and shooting. It's the culmination of theory and experiment for a working guy. It's something I can put my hands on without a NASA budget. We have great measurement tools now. Tools that are affordable. Get a book and read it, acquire the proper tools, and if you have questions there are many many members here who will be happy to answer a PM.
 
One thing I thought I'd share - when I first started reloading I didn't have a bench, so I mounted my Dad's press to a small piece of plywood. I would then use C clamps and mount it to the kitchen table using pieces of wood tp protect the table from the clamps. Worked like a charm. When you decide this is a permanent part of your repertoire then it's time to look for a bench.

The aspect of reloading that I like is the connection I feel to the sport when I shoot. When I shoot my own ammo it seems I have more focus because I have more of myself invested in it. Hand loading is also the only way you will find out what loads work the best for your rifle. Most rifles will shoot factory ammunition just fine, but to get the most from your rifle you need to experiment.
 
A good overview of single stage presses from sub $100 to $1000

Buy used, learn, then sell if you want something different without losing a lot of money
 
When you start out , look for ways to check your own work at every step along the way.
I hand check every piece of brass before priming.
I set them in trays that hold each piece at the same height so that once powder charged i can sight across the whole row to spot any that have a high or low amount of powder. [ you catch any that are partial charged or double charged].
Once loaded I set them on a piece of glass to see that all the primers are fully seated [ if not the loaded round will not stand up straight].
And I plunk test them before packing them in storage trays.
These are some of the things I do.
Something that I do that costs you nothing but time is get good at reading both load books and ammo boxes. The little details will help you duplicate some factory loads that you have liked.

With primers hard to get, now is the time to buy equipment and get a supply of cases. When you see primers or powder be ready to buy, but that may still be awhile before you find them on shelves. But get your equipment now! Good Luck, DR
 
Oh my that's calculus :D. Wow he put a major amount of work into that.
Wait until you read the written report! Watch in YT and the link is posted in the description.

One takeaway is that some are nicer/better ergos/more precision but none are losers and all will load with more than enough precision for the majority of shooters
 
While you have been getting good advice I would like to offer some of my own - be forthcoming and honest with yourself about exactly why you want to get into reloading before you do.

I have seen far too many people get into it for their OWN wrong reasons, invest far too much money, and lose on selling what they bought without ever loading a round.
If anyone buys "stuff" and later decides they do not want it? Wait for the next panic. They hit every so often like clock work. Then you can actually sell the stuff you don't want for more than you paid for it :D
 
RE : Budget and Equipment?

Think of reloading as simple and/or as easy as "starting on the cheap" to "going gold".

Simple and Cheap = Perhaps look into the CLASSIC LEE LOADER kit(s)

Then, there is the more Complex and/or Expensive = Progressive Press Operations and accessories.

There is plenty of in between too.

Choose wisely.

As for the steps and process? Well it's covered widely in books and on YouTube.

Aloha, Mark
 
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I want to get into it to have a greater understanding of shooting. Not to save money but to up my knowledge of ballistics and shooting and a hobby for the winter weather.
Good answers!

With regard to savings, you can see it (on paper) that is.

I would occasionally run a breakdown of costs for a particular caliber and depending on the component costs I have seen - $5 - $6/50 9mm/.38 special but it typically is a little higher.

I realize there have been times when reloaded 9mm was about on par with store bought but I don't reload for the savings and well, given what's happened over the last year or so I'm pretty happy with my reloading costs.

Also there is the convenience of reloading considering when you have components built up you don't need to run around looking for ammo, scrounge the websites etc. Heck even when ammo is readily available not having to run to the store is a bit of a savings as well.

Simple and Cheap = Perhaps look into the CLASSIC LEE LODER kit(s)
Many of us started with a Lee Loader however most transitioned to some style of press shortly thereafter.

While the Lee is 'simple and cheap' they are not particularly 'pleasant' to use and a bit cumbersome.

The most basic SS press is a 1000% more practical than a lee Loader.

I have often said I believe the Lee Loader was designed to influence buying a press!
 
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Good answers!

With regard to savings, you can see it (on paper) that is.

I would occasionally run a breakdown of costs for a particular caliber and depending on the component costs I have seen - $5 - $6/50 9mm/.38 special but it typically is a little higher.

I realize there have been times when reloaded 9mm was about on par with store bought but I don't reload for the savings and well, given what's happened over the last year or so I'm pretty happy with my reloading costs.

Also there is the convenience of reloading considering when you have components built up you don't need to run around looking for ammo, scrounge the websites etc. Heck even when ammo is readily available not having to run to the store is a bit of a savings as well.


Many of us started with a Lee Loader however most transitioned to some style of press shortly thereafter.

While the Lee is 'simple and cheap' they are not particularly 'pleasant' to use and a bit cumbersome.

The most basic SS press is a 1000% more practical than a lee Loader.

I have often said I believe the Lee Loader was designed to influence buying a press!
Oh that thing was totally a gateway drug:s0112:
 
Whats the best way to get into reloading? I know it's not that great of savings right now but I would love to learn. I've heard it's important to learn hands on rather then just reading about it.

Thanks for any input
Buy a Lyman manual. It tells and shows how to do all of the basics along with load data to get started with accurate ammo minimal effort along with safety concerns.
 
I want to get into it to have a greater understanding of shooting. Not to save money but to up my knowledge of ballistics and shooting and a hobby for the winter weather.
Good post. Reloading takes a lot of time, and a lot of patience in a lot of concentration. If just loading to get a few rounds of hunting ammo, just buy a couple boxes of the same lot number, sight in with one box (or less preferably) the second box is one shot to foul the bore, one shot to see where you hit at 100 yards, and over six years of hunting with what is left. With first box. If you can put put 3 rnds into a 4" circle. I shoot a lot in target, competition type activities and self defense situations. Practice makes perfect, after tens of thousands of rounds. Not required for hunting.

What do want to do? 20 rnds over 5 years, or thousands every year?
 
Just a few of things to get firmly fixed in your mind BEFORE entering the world of reloading -

1. Do NOT try and second-guess the reloading manuals, and although they WILL vary from brand to brand [some of them make bullets, remember, as well as presses], please pay attention to the words MAXIMUM LOADS. If in any doubt, look up the meaning of the word.

2. Under no account go BELOW the lowest stated load, either. By doing so, you just might end up with a squib load that leaves a bullet in the barrel, and then shoot another. This can often be not just a gun-killer - hear what I'm saying?

3. Unless specifically stated, do NOT swap nitro powders for black powder of any kind, unless it states, for example, the words such as 'NITRO loads for BP Firearms'. Equal volumes of nitro and BP, shot in a firearm designed for BP, will probably kill you and people standing nearby. NEVER shoot a nitro load in a firearm designed to shoot ONLY with black powder. Some modern replicas CAN shoot nitro loads - they will be clearly marked as such by the maker - usually Italian - in the proof marks - two stars over the letters PSF 'polvere senza fumare' = lit. powder without smoke. As a good example, my Uberti replica 1885 Winchester High Wall rifle shoots a 405gr lead bullet at just over 1250 fps with 65gr of 2Fg black powder. It does the same thing with just 33gr of IMR4198. Modern in-line guns are anathema to me, and I'm happy to leave them to those who like 'em, so you'd have to read the instructions.

4. Pay close attention to every single measurement in the loading data - they are not there to fill up the page.

And lastly - ask a lot of questions.
 

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