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Hey Guys,

I was thinking about looking into hunting with a muzzleloader in the future and wanted to see of any of you do it? What do you think about it? Is it worth it?

And your opinions of rifles gear. Any information you can provide would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
I have in the past. Most likely will in the future. Its a little different in that with most muzzle loaders due to the deep rifling you need one or two fouling shots for best accuracy (not so much with the modern or TC barrels made for slugs) so I always tended to shoot the rifle a couple times the night before. Then load it when I got out of my rig in the morning. Including a cap (traditional Plains style rifle shooting a .490" round ball with a .020 patch and 70 grains of 3f) I then put a thick piece of soft leather between the cap and the hammer with the hammer sitting on the leather. Helped to weather proof it and all I had to do was cock the hammer to be ready to fire. Again modern rifles would be very different. You get one shot be on target.
 
DSC06034.jpg
Most of my hunting and shooting for that matter is done with traditional or antique muzzleloaders.
I like to use my .54 Hawken copy for anything I care to hunt.
From grouse to buffalo it would do fine.

I have used my flintlock Northwest trade gun to bust clay birds and grouse on the wing.
And yes flintlocks do shoot in the rain... LOL.

You do not need a ton of gear to shoot either.
A shooting bag , horn , powder , patches ,caps or flints , vent pick
( for a flinter ) and a turn screw for screws and to act as flint knapper.
Perhaps a worm and a tin of grease and you are good to go.
Pictured is my bag for flintlocks and all the gear I carry.

Some Tips:
Be sure to grease your patch with something other than spit.
I use bear grease or deer tallow. But TC's bore butter works well.
Cradle your gun to cover the lock during wet weather.
I will unprime my gun if the ground gets treacherous , otherwise its primed and at half cock.
Always reload before you walk up to your game.
As far as calibers go I would suggest .50 and up for deer and other big game.
I know .45 and smaller will work for deer and has been used on bigger game.
But some states have caliber restrictions and .50 generally covers most big game.
I like .54 caliber . 80 grains of 2f , a .15 patch and a .530 round ball will take care of most anything...

I do not feel you are giving anything up when hunting with a muzzleloader.
After all they have kept folks fed for hundreds of years.
If you or anyone has any questions about muzzleloaders please feel free to ask or message me.
Andy
 
Last Edited:
Some thoughts on guns.
First some recommendations on off the shelf guns:
The Thompson Center "Hawken" series
The Thompson Center Renegade and New Englander
The Lyman Great Plains and Trade rifle
The Investarms "Hawken" style rifle
Any of these rifles will do fine for the first time buyer.
All are well made and rugged firearms.
I would suggest that the buyer stick with percussion in these guns as the use use of coil springs and having seen way too many soft frizzens and a too small vent hole to recommend a flintlock from these outfits.

Any Rifled Musket that the Civil War reenactors use would make a dandy hunting rifle.
So would the various copies of the Remington "Zouave" rifles.
The older Navy arms Buffalo hunter is a great choice.

Perdersoli makes many a fine gun.
They do a pretty good job on their flintlocks. If you are wanting a flintlock I would start with their line.

I do not want to give the impression that I am a rifle snob and look down on off the shelf guns.
All of the above are fine guns that I have owned , shot or worked on.
I am however a history nerd and most of the above guns come up short on being historically correct.
And require a bit of work to pass muster , so to speak.
Again they are fine guns, do good work in the hunting fields and on the shooting line.
Andy
 
Ive hunted deer and elk with black powder rifles. I used a Thompson Center Hawken in .54cal
But these days I use a Shiloh Sharps 45-120 with a 32" barrel, and I use a 500 grain paper patched bullet. Nothing like packing around a 13 pound rifle thru the Oregon coastal forests. Ferns 5' tall and a rifle I should be using as a walking stick.

I'm thinking of taking my Sharps out to the lathe and taking 15" off the barrel before I hunt with it again....Or I need a rifle bearer:D
 
Some thoughts on shooting:
Develop a loading system and stick to it.
Remember to load Powder , Patch then Ball.
I like to lightly cut a line on my ramrod where it meets the muzzle when I am loaded , so I can tell if I "dry balled".
( loaded without powder)

Some guys use more than one load. I do not.
I like one load for all my shooting , easier for me to remember to hold over or under , than how many grains at different yards.
Plus I do not have to have two measures , one for targets and one for hunting.

Check your load if you move your gun by car or horse.
I have seen loads move forward from being in transit.
Just tamp it back in place with your ramrod.

If you use off the shelf patches and ball , a short starter will be handy.
Different companies have different ideas about patch and ball sizes .
( not all .530 round balls are indeed .530 for instance )

If you use spit as a lube while shooting on the line , use grease for hunting. No one likes a rusty breech LOL.
TC Bore butter , Criso , Bear grease , deer tallow will work.

Humidity will affect your powder and how your gun shoots.
If your gun dosen't go off at first , wait about 30 seconds before checking it out . Sometimes there is a "hangfire".

Practice and more practice is key.
I have shot in different weather , elevations , lighting etc...
Get to know your gun and how it shoots.
Andy
 
Last Edited:
View attachment 308692
Most of my hunting and shooting for that matter is done with traditional or antique muzzleloaders.
I like to use my .54 Hawken copy for anything I care to hunt.
From grouse to buffalo it would do fine.

I have used my flintlock Northwest trade gun to bust clay birds and grouse on the wing.
And yes flintlocks do shoot in the rain... LOL.

You do not need a ton of gear to shoot either.
A shooting bag , horn , powder , patches ,caps or flints , vent pick
( for a flinter ) and a turn screw for screws and to act as flint knapper.
Perhaps a worm and a tin of grease and you are good to go.
Pictured is my bag for flintlocks and all the gear I carry.

Some Tips:
Be sure to grease your patch with something other than spit.
I use bear grease or deer tallow. But TC's bore butter works well.
Cradle your gun to cover the lock during wet weather.
I will unprime my gun if the ground gets treacherous , otherwise its primed and at half cock.
Always reload when you walk up to your game.
As far as calibers go I would suggest .50 and up for deer and other big game.
I know .45 and smaller will work for deer and has been used on bigger game.
But some states have caliber restrictions and .50 generally covers most big game.
I like .54 caliber . 80 grains of 2f , a .15 patch and a .530 round ball will take care of most anything...

I do not feel you are giving anything up when hunting with a muzzleloader.
After all they have kept folks fed for hundreds of years.
If you or anyone has any questions about muzzleloaders please feel free to ask or message me.
Andy
Very good post.
 
I actually prefer hunting with a front stuffer, I get a better and usually longer season ( especially Elk) and the .50 cal min is no detriment to performance at all. I have used any number of types and designs from what AndyinEverson listed all the way to modern inlines! My current fav is the older Spanish made Winchester 100X that I restocked in nice wood. It's .50 cal and current with my state ( no fiber optic sights, no scope, no closed ignition) I run 465 gr bullets over a full 150 gr charge of 3f or Hodgdon tripple7 gold. That is my Elk load. A 395 gr Lyman Plains bullet over 90 gr of the same powder does the trick for deer! This Rifle is the most accurate and has more then enough power for the most difficult of shots. A more traditional rifle would be the Kit Carson's Hawken from Track of the Wolf. A really nice percussion rifle that will see you through the learning experience and help you really fine tune your needs and desires! From there the possibilities are endless. A good and enexpensive way to start out would be one of the older Thompson Black Diamond inlines, really good performance for very little coin and a good foundation from which to learn and grow! Just not an investment piece! And like Andy says, feel free to ask or message all you like, I am more then happy to share wisdom and mistakes:D
BTW- you know you got it bad when you are perfecting your own powder mix from the prime ingredents and are getting as good as or some times better powder then the stuff you can buy!
 
Some thoughts on shooting:
Develop a loading system and stick to it.
Remember to load Powder , Patch then Ball.
I like to lightly cut a line on my ramrod where it meets the muzzle when I am loaded , so I can tell if I "dry balled".
( loaded without powder)

Some guys use more than one load. I do not.
I like one load for all my shooting , easier for me to remember to hold over or under , than how many grains at different yards.
Plus I do not have to have two measures , one for targets and one for hunting.

Check your load if you move your gun by car or horse.
I have seen loads move forward from being in transit.
Just tamp it back in place with your ramrod.

If you use off the shelf patches and ball , a short starter will be handy.
Different companies have different ideas about patch and ball sizes .
( not all .530 round balls are indeed .530 for instance )

If you use spit as a lube while shooting on the line , use grease for hunting. No likes a rusty breech LOL.
TC Bore butter , Criso , Bear grease , deer tallow will work.

Humidity will affect your powder and how your gun shoots.
If your gun dosen't go off at first , wait about 30 seconds before checking it out . Sometimes there is a "hangfire".

Practice and more practice is key.
I have shot in different weather , elevations , lighting etc...
Get to know your gun and how it shoots.
Andy
Some thoughts on guns.
First some recommendations on off the shelf guns:
The Thompson Center "Hawken" series
The Thompson Center Renegade and New Englander
The Lyman Great Plains and Trade rifle
The Investarms "Hawken" style rifle
Any of these rifles will do fine for the first time buyer.
All are well made and rugged firearms.
I would suggest that the buyer stick with percussion in these guns as the use use of coil springs and having seen way too many soft frizzens and a too small vent hole to recommend a flintlock from these outfits.

Any Rifled Musket that the Civil War reenactors use would make a dandy hunting rifle.
So would the various copies of the Remington "Zouave" rifles.
The older Navy arms Buffalo hunter is a great choice.

Perdersoli makes many a fine gun.
They do a pretty good job on their flintlocks. If you are wanting a flintlock I would start with their line.

I do not want to give the impression that I am a rifle snob and look down on off the shelf guns.
All of the above are fine guns that I have owned , shot or worked on.
I am however a history nerd and most of the above guns come up short on being historically correct.
And require a bit of work to pass muster , so to speak.
Again they are fine guns, do good work in the hunting fields and on the shooting line.
Andy
View attachment 308692
Most of my hunting and shooting for that matter is done with traditional or antique muzzleloaders.
I like to use my .54 Hawken copy for anything I care to hunt.
From grouse to buffalo it would do fine.

I have used my flintlock Northwest trade gun to bust clay birds and grouse on the wing.
And yes flintlocks do shoot in the rain... LOL.

You do not need a ton of gear to shoot either.
A shooting bag , horn , powder , patches ,caps or flints , vent pick
( for a flinter ) and a turn screw for screws and to act as flint knapper.
Perhaps a worm and a tin of grease and you are good to go.
Pictured is my bag for flintlocks and all the gear I carry.

Some Tips:
Be sure to grease your patch with something other than spit.
I use bear grease or deer tallow. But TC's bore butter works well.
Cradle your gun to cover the lock during wet weather.
I will unprime my gun if the ground gets treacherous , otherwise its primed and at half cock.
Always reload when you walk up to your game.
As far as calibers go I would suggest .50 and up for deer and other big game.
I know .45 and smaller will work for deer and has been used on bigger game.
But some states have caliber restrictions and .50 generally covers most big game.
I like .54 caliber . 80 grains of 2f , a .15 patch and a .530 round ball will take care of most anything...

I do not feel you are giving anything up when hunting with a muzzleloader.
After all they have kept folks fed for hundreds of years.
If you or anyone has any questions about muzzleloaders please feel free to ask or message me.
Andy
Yeah yeah I was gunna say all that:confused:
I don't know much but my CVA, NW legal, was dead on accurate. And 405gr slug dropped my cow now.
Funny how if you try you CAN get within 100 yds of an elk
3 days before I took my cow I could have shot a 5x5 in a heard of about 25
Don't know if I'll muzzle hunt this year as I am bow hunting next week but I would love to get to hunt in the snow again. Makes it nicer to process game and take your time.
 
One really smart guy I know ( This Fella up in Everson named Andy) posted a picture in this here thread, Post #4 that hits on something every muzzle loader needs just as much as the gun it's self, A good Possibles bag on the hip! Every thing needed for a hunt ( or just shooting) should be contained with in! Many hunters I run into have stuff spread all over them selves and just think how hard it is to find half the stuff when you really need it! Capping tool, pick, bullet starter I wear on a lanyard round the neck, but every thing else goes in that bag where it's all nice and handy! I also keep a few extra powder measures pre charged ( sort of a speed load) or I do a few paper rolled cartridge's for a quick follow up shot if needed! Again, this is all part of the fun of primitive hunting with an old Thunder Stick!
 
DSC06032.jpg
I'm gonna need a new hat here pretty soon fellas! LOL
Thanks!

A good bag is indeed a must.
I like one thats not too big. If ya get a big one , you end up carrying 3 tons of unneeded stuff.
Get one that is sewn as rivets tend to pull out.
A lining is nice , but not needed. I do like a small inside pocket to hold my powder measure.
Leather or canvas is good . Pick whichever one suits your fancy.
October Country and The Leatherman both make excellent off the shelf bags.
A good bag from them will be pricey ... But worth it in the end.
Custom bags , if well made are worth the price as well.

Pictured here is my bag for my Hawken Rifle.
Its moose hide and linen lined , with a small inside pocket.
My horn is attached to my bag strap. Its harder to forget my horn that way.
The bag is 9 inches long and 7 inches wide.
The cowhorn is 12 inches long and curves into the bag , holding the flap down.
Inside I have a powder measure , horn capbox , bag with balls , patches and a tool kit.
( turnscrew , nipple wrench , worm and patch puller)
if hunting I'll throw in a tin of grease.
I usually carry about 25 shots and 25 shots worth of powder when on the shooting line.
For hunting I'll drop it down to 15 or so.
Andy
 
Last Edited:
I shoot a .58 cal Green River Rifle Work Lehman, a 62 cal trade gun and a 45 cal hawken style custom gun. I like hunting with em, accurate and fun to shoot. Check your area for a local muzzle loader club, you will learn more than you could ever imagine.
 

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