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How I Powder Coat bullets
Powder Coat bullets

Let's start with PCing bullets without a gun from the beginning.

1) Get a number 5 container (with the #5 in the triangle, you need it to build static for the powder to cling to the bullets. cool whip containers work well)
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2) Cover the bottom of the container with black Airsoft BB's (It the PC doesn't cling to the BB's you got the wrong kind [See bottom of post]

3) put a tsp of PC in the container and top with a handful of clean bullets

Most 80% (or better) gloss polyester PC should work you'll find some just work better than others

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4) swirl the container rapidly to build up a static charge in the bullets so the PC will cling

6) when the bullets are completely coated dump BB's/powder and bullets in a colander and sift out the BB's & powder

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[ put something under the colander first or you'll be chasing BB's all night (don't ask me how I know)] Make sure you get all the excess powder off. If you can't find a colander with large enough holes in the bottom you can drill them out, just make sure to sand smooth all the rough edges.

7) Dump the coated bullets on a baking screen (Steel Mesh Storage Tray) shake to distribute evenly. "Steel Mesh Storage Tray " [See bottom of post]

8AO8AMM.jpg (this is using my best PC in a good oven, I'd recommend starting with ½ as many

8) place in preheated oven @ 400° F or 204° C

Convection ovens are preferred because they circulate the air and heat the entire oven evenly

I bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0097D2T7S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and have done literally tons of bullets in it.

I got my second (better oven) @ goodwill for $20 (a 2 shelf Oster convection oven)

Toaster ovens will work but limit you to small batches or you'll get uneven baking

THIS IS IMPORTANT. ALL COUNTERTOP OVEN HEAT SETTINGS ARE OF DUE TO THE WAY THEY ARE DESIGNED. Test you oven temperature by putting a couple oven thermometers in the middle of the shelf you will be baking on. ( bought 1 for the shop <$5 and borrowed one from the kitchen just to confirm the one I bought was accurate). kZNoCLu.png

Turn the oven on then adjust the temperature setting until the two thermometers read 400°

Note the needed setting (you will need to check this if the room temperature has changed a lot since the last time you checked.

Line the bottom of the oven with a heat retaining media (I use ceramic BBQ briquettes others use fire-brick, pieces of metal or? This allows the oven to get back to temperature faster

Manufacturers usually specify 10 min @ 400° in a pre-heated oven. I do 12 min for small batches and 15 min for large batches.

9) when done baking remove tray and turn over on either another tray or towel, tap the bottom of the tray to dislodges any bullets that might remain stuck together. Rarely will the tray of bullets sticking together leave any marks

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When coated bullets are cool place 1 or 2 on a piece of metal and do the smash test. If you did the process correctly they won't chip or flake. –If the do, put them back in the oven and add 3 minutes to your bake time,

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Generally you don't need any lube to size PC'd bullets, they are pretty slick, You can use case lube if you want.

IF you size before PCing make sure ALL the lube is cleaned off you sizer before using so you don't contaminate the bullet

"Licensed Crosman High Impact .25g Airsoft BBs" work.
0 28478 13239 9

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Crossman said these were the same .25g Game Face Airsoft Maximum Precision Black Airsoft BBs (5000ct) 25GPB5J | eBay

Steel Mesh Storage Tray (they also sell them at bed bath & Beyond)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779VRFYT/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I16JRBY33IY4TH&colid=ST8IC9C5DX8P&psc=0

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DZ0TQY/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1AHM8MTWMO8HV&colid=ST8IC9C5DX8P&psc=1

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W7WM1W/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2KASXRYZPI44E&colid=ST8IC9C5DX8P&psc=1
UX1tx8h.png
 
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How much faster can you push the PC'd bullets vs the plain lead projectiles? My son purchase some from MO bullets for his 30-30 and 9mm. I have found any data about how hard you can push the bullets yet...
 
My process is similar, but slower. I admit I'm more picky than I really need to be, but they sure do turn out nice. I was skeptical at first but now I'll never go back to traditionally lubed bullets.

I've found that coated bullets aren't as picky about size, which is nice because now I can use the same ammo in a couple different 9mm pistols that have differing bore diameters, without leading or accuracy issues.

As to velocity, I haven't experimented much on the upper end, but from what I've heard you can push them pretty fast without leading, but accuracy will tend to drop off at a point.
 
How much faster can you push the PC'd bullets vs the plain lead projectiles? My son purchase some from MO bullets for his 30-30 and 9mm. I have found any data about how hard you can push the bullets yet...

I have yet to see a pistol like 9mm 40S&W or 357 mag push a powder coated bullet to failure. The same rules apply as to traditionally lubed bullets mostly. Fit is king. If your bullets fit snug in the cylinder throat of a revolver at .001 or .002 larger than groove diameter and the same for auto barrels you should have no problems with leading and accuracy. I have yet to need a gas check in those calibers. Bullet Hardness should still be somewhat matched to load pressure, but I am finding that it is not as critical with powder coating. I have taken powder coated bullets up to 1800 fps out of my .351 wsl without gas checks and no leading and they are very accurate for that gun. I haven't tried any in a bottleneck cartridge yet, but I don't see why they couldn't be made to work well in a 30-30.
 
Left to right: acme hi tek coated .38 wadcutter, homecast 158 grain shot from a .351wsl, homecast 125 grain shot from a .357 mag. Scratches are from impact in a fine gravel berm but the coating is nicely intact. It doesn't give way easily if it's properly cured.

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With the proper fit and alloy, I'll push PC'd bullets up to 1800 fps w/o GC, they have been pushed up to 3000 fps with the proper alloy and GC. Some people add copper to the alloy to make more elastomeric.

The more common way to PC is to swirl the bullets in the PC, BB's and No5 container until the PC adheres to the bullets then pick out the bullets with a pair of tweezers (tapping off the excess powder) and standing them up on a baking tray covered with silicone or parchment paper.

PS if you dislike tweezers, surgical gloves will work too for handling the coated bullets without marring them.
 
Last Edited:
With the proper fit and alloy, I'll push PC'd bullets up to 1800 fps w/o GC, they have been pushed up to 3000 fps with the proper alloy and GC. Some people add copper to the alloy to make more elastomeric.

The more common way to PC is to swirl the bullets in the PC, BB's and No5 container until the PC adheres to the bullets then pick out the bullets with a pair of tweezers (tapping off the excess powder) and standing them up on a baking tray covered with silicone or parchment paper.



Exactly!
remember that ogive coating isnt as important as lube groove portion as the rounded nose of a bullet really doesn't touch the grooves or rifling....in relation to what lubing a cast bullet traditionally serves as purpose.

it is very important to know the temps of your oven so you don't start sagging your cast bullets. temp and time.
Nobody likes a burnt bisquit. just sayin'.
 
The more common way to PC is to swirl the bullets in the PC, BB's and No5 container until the PC adheres to the bullets then pick out the bullets with a pair of tweezers (tapping off the excess powder) and standing them up on a baking tray covered with silicone or parchment paper.
I like them stood up but don't like placing them with tweezers, so I drop them nose down in trays and then flip them over on a tray with parchment paper. It doesn't take long and no stuck together bullets after cooking and more fit on the sheet that way. I'm getting a nice even coat that way. I'm not coating today or I'd show the bullets on the sheet.

Drop them in,

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Put a same size tray with parchment paper or silicone over like a sandwich,

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Flip it,

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Then pull off the trays and cook'em. You can coat and set up the next batch while the first batch is in the oven.
 
I bought a $15 toaster oven at Goodwill, but bypassed the thermostat and wired in a PID controller that I also use on my lead pot.

It probably would work fine otherwise, but the thermostat on those is just a bimetal unit so they're not real sensitive and tend to overshoot as they warm up. Plus I had the controller anyhow.
 
I bought a $15 toaster oven at Goodwill, but bypassed the thermostat and wired in a PID controller that I also use on my lead pot.

It probably would work fine otherwise, but the thermostat on those is just a bimetal unit so they're not real sensitive and tend to overshoot as they warm up. Plus I had the controller anyhow.
I find that 375f for 18-20 minutes works just fine to cure Eastwood coatings. I'm very pleased with the Eastwood coatings they fill in nice and even and they hang on to lead tenatiously. Very high quality at an excellent price IMOP.
 
With the proper fit and alloy, I'll push PC'd bullets up to 1800 fps w/o GC, they have been pushed up to 3000 fps with the proper alloy and GC. Some people add copper to the alloy to make more elastomeric.

The more common way to PC is to swirl the bullets in the PC, BB's and No5 container until the PC adheres to the bullets then pick out the bullets with a pair of tweezers (tapping off the excess powder) and standing them up on a baking tray covered with silicone or parchment paper.
What is the proper alloy for 3000 fps? Lyman #2?
 
Good info but, tell me more....

1. Will PC bullets replace the need to size bullets? And, am I correct to assume that if I were to PC my typical handgun bullets, I would no longer have to add lube to the bullet's grease grove(s)?

2. Then, will the PC adversely affect the tradition of melting/reusing already fired lead bullets? Will additional safety equipment be required? Will the resulting reused lead mixture w/ PC bullets, be of lesser quality than lead melted from traditional lead only scrap bullets? Melting points, mold filling and pour/flow are also of concern.

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
Good info but, tell me more....

1. Will PC bullets replace the need to size and add lube to a typical lead (handgun) bullet's grease grove(s)?

2. Then, will the PC adversely affect the tradition of melting/reusing already fired lead bullets? Will additional safety equipment be required? Will the resulting reused lead mixture w/ PC bullets, be of lesser quality than lead melted from traditional lead only scrap bullets?

Aloha, Mark
Hey Mark,

Depending on the size your bullets drop and the size you need you might not need to size. And no lube is necessary the PC provides the lubricity it's schlickenzee.

You can reuse/remelt just like any other lead bullet the PC floats to the top just scrape it off like normal slag/dross. I do it all the time.
 
Thanks.

I assume the dross and old PC gets dumped?

Aloha, Mark

PS...i've used PC bullets, but I quit casting before they became a "thing."
 
Last Edited:
PC'd (and Hi-Tek) bullets are sized similarly to cast (lubed/alox) bullets, 1 to 3 thousandths over the slugged diameter of your bore.
 
My experience has been that they seem to be a little more forgiving about size than traditionally lubed bullets. I've shot some sized right at bore diameter that worked fine (.357" in a 9mm that slugs .357").

Also, push-through sizers (Lee) that go on a regular loading press work great with PC bullets, and you don't need a lube-sizer press.
 

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