JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
A buddy has the magpul wrench and I was a bit disappointed by it. The closed ends on it really limit the applications it can be used on. I think the wheeler wrench is better due to the open ends. I like the fact that the magpul is cast for strength, but it has its short comings. Uppers are easy. If you've done a lower, you can likely do an upper with the proper tools and tips.
They must have changed it...
MAG535-2.jpg
 
An 80% lower build? Even I would not try that. Too many things must be exact. Other than that, like already said better before me, torquing up that pesky OEM barrel nut to about 42 pounds is the most difficult part. Old old school. The upper floats and is hand supported.. The flat gets shaved square. The barrel gets locked down very tight. This will fetch them out! Yikes! :)

Hundreds of AR15 builds.

PS. The illustrated video photo is wrong. You do not use a center punch to install that pesky OEM mag catch button. Instead you use an ordinary pencil. Use the erasure end. No scratching. Very simple.
 
An 80% lower build? Even I would not try that. Too many things must be exact. Other than that, like already said better before me, torquing up that pesky OEM barrel nut to about 42 pounds is the most difficult part. Old old school. The upper floats and is hand supported.. The flat gets shaved square. The barrel gets locked down very tight. This will fetch them out! Yikes! :)

Hundreds of AR15 builds and a few of them actually worked.

PS. The illustrated video photo is wrong. You do not use a center punch to install that pesky OEM mag catch button. Instead you use an ordinary pencil. Use the erasure end. No scratching. Very simple.
A sketch from the Middle Ages...
barrelviseblockmethod.jpg
 
An 80% lower build? Even I would not try that. Too many things must be exact. Other than that, like already said better before me, torquing up that pesky OEM barrel nut to about 42 pounds is the most difficult part. Old old school. The upper floats and is hand supported.. The flat gets shaved square. The barrel gets locked down very tight. This will fetch them out! Yikes! :)

Hundreds of AR15 builds.

PS. The illustrated video photo is wrong. You do not use a center punch to install that pesky OEM mag catch button. Instead you use an ordinary pencil. Use the erasure end. No scratching. Very simple.

I am good with a torque wrench. Had to replace the lawn mower blade a few times and was 80 foot pounds to tighten it up.

I bought the KAK bolt catch roll pin starter punch (Walt's tool) for this task.

KAK BOLT CATCH ROLL PIN STARTER PUNCH (WALT'S TOOL)
 
I am good with a torque wrench. Had to replace the lawn mower blade a few times and was 80 foot pounds to tighten it up.

I bought the KAK bolt catch roll pin starter punch (Walt's tool) for this task.

KAK BOLT CATCH ROLL PIN STARTER PUNCH (WALT'S TOOL)
Dry fit your bolt catch, plunger, spring using the shank end of the correct size drill bit and verify function before driving that roll pin. (you don't want a do-over on this one)
I then put some tape (lightly) on the drill bit to the receiver. (keeps drill bit from flying out prematurely)
Then let the roll pin chase the drill bit out of the receiver.

Sounds like you are pretty well tooled up.
How about a vice ?
 
If I can do it, ANYBODY can... My LGS used to check headspace for me for no charge, and using decent parts, I never had one out of spec. The store has gone out of business, so I haven't even been checking it lately, and have had no issues. I do need to invest in some go/ no gauges one day.
 
I second the suggestion to get the Geissele Reaction Rod or one of the clones. This holds the barrel secure (while you are attaching the barrel but, handguards, and other items) without passing the stress through the upper receiver. I bought one of the copies and it works very well. It also leaves the top of the receiver unobstructed so you can use it while mounting optics.
 
Dry fit your bolt catch, plunger, spring using the shank end of the correct size drill bit and verify function before driving that roll pin. (you don't want a do-over on this one)
I then put some tape (lightly) on the drill bit to the receiver. (keeps drill bit from flying out prematurely)
Then let the roll pin chase the drill bit out of the receiver.

Sounds like you are pretty well tooled up.
How about a vice ?

I have a clamp on vise that I use with a 1" engineered wood table. It will probably work for the barrel torquing since it not over 40-45 foot pounds. If not I have a brother in law that has a vise bolted down to a work bench.
 
I building my upper receiver. I have a torque wrench and barrel nut wrench but I only can manage 30 foot pounds and with my clip on vise it going to break. So need to go to my sister's house to complete my upper since my brother in law has a real vise. I have about an 1/8" before I can put my gas tube through the upper.

I did complete my lower receiver and I have and FDE hand guard coming soon. I did put the CMC Triggers which has a 3.5lb pull. Very nice trigger but the trigger has treaded pins with screws.

D9909EA0-72CE-4500-8185-821FC1D229EE.jpeg 1B3A46DC-E599-45E7-8921-BC6FA1015A15.jpeg
 
I building my upper receiver. I have a torque wrench and barrel nut wrench but I only can manage 30 foot pounds and with my clip on vise it going to break. So need to go to my sister's house to complete my upper since my brother in law has a real vise. I have about an 1/8" before I can put my gas tube through the upper.

I did complete my lower receiver and I have and FDE hand guard coming soon. I did put the CMC Triggers which has a 3.5lb pull. Very nice trigger but the trigger has treaded pins with screws.

View attachment 554249 View attachment 554250
That's a long way to go.
Make sure that you are using grease on the receiver threads AND put some grease on the "torque shoulder" which is part of the barrel extension.
As the barrel nut climbs the receiver threads, it is also scrubbing along the torque shoulder.
No manual or tutorial ever mentions this.

I use AeroShell 33MS, the actual stuff, but any moly-based grease is better than nothing.

And don't try to get it all at once if it is being stubborn. Back off and come at a few times if necessary.
Use a good receiver fixture.
Do not use a Panther Claw type unless it's rigged sideways with a rail protector (top hat).
 
A buddy has the magpul wrench and I was a bit disappointed by it. The closed ends on it really limit the applications it can be used on. I think the wheeler wrench is better due to the open ends. I like the fact that the magpul is cast for strength, but it has its short comings. Uppers are easy. If you've done a lower, you can likely do an upper with the proper tools and tips.

The Magpul is the best general purpose armorers tool on the market and the barrel nut end is open, the receiver extension end is closed.
 
Last Edited:
Torquing is not a hard at, timing a GI barrel nut can be tricky but why anyone would go out of their way use one is beyond me. Most handguards these days use proprietary barrel nut and typically do not require timing.
True, I was just saying that if somebody who's All Thumbs like me can do it even on a GI barrel-nut without a vise ANYBODY can do it. :) Really, it could be a middle-school Shop Class project...
 
And don't try to get it all at once if it is being stubborn. Back off and come at a few times if necessary.
Use a good receiver fixture.
Do not use a Panther Claw type unless it's rigged sideways with a rail protector (top hat).

Should torque and remove and re-torque three times.
I use a Geissele Reaction Rods for installing and a clam shell for removing barrel nuts.
Those Panther claws are garbage for install a barrel nut, just begging to crack the upper.
 
I am using the Brownells vise blocks to hold my upper receiver but has I said I am using and inexpensive clamp on vise. I need to make a proper work bench with a proper vise but really don't have room for it right now. I am planning on putting a Troy Industries hand guard on it it takes a standard barrel nut not the proprietary one with it's own barrel nut.

I did buy an inexpensive Guntec one but the barrel nut is aluminum not steel.
 
I am using the Brownells vise blocks to hold my upper receiver but has I said I am using and inexpensive clamp on vise. I need to make a proper work bench with a proper vise but really don't have room for it right now. I am planning on putting a Troy Industries hand guard on it it takes a standard barrel nut not the proprietary one with it's own barrel nut.

I did buy an inexpensive Guntec one but the barrel nut is aluminum not steel.
That sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.

Go use that Man Vise and let us know how it goes.
 

Upcoming Events

Tillamook Gun & Knife Show
Tillamook, OR
"The Original" Kalispell Gun Show
Kalispell, MT
Teen Rifle 1 Class
Springfield, OR
Kids Firearm Safety 2 Class
Springfield, OR

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top