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Thanks for the link(s) but the Taurus crane stays attached to the cylinder when the extractor rod is removed. So back to the original question - how do I separate the crane from the cylinder? Thanks.
 
If it's anything like the 2 Taurus revolvers I just worked on, the ejector rod has reverse threads and that has to be unscrewed first. Then the crane comes out with some help from a rubber mallet. Hope that helps.
 
Just to be clear the ejector rod and ejector are out but the crane is still happily mated to the cylinder and there has to be a procedure for this - and it does not appear a rubber mallet is going to separate them.
 
Generally, you remove the forward side plate screw nearest the barrel.
Numrich has a schematic of your revolver, and it shows a groove near the end of the crane (yoke) tube.
If you remove just that screw, the crane should just pull out.
Make sure you have a couple of spent shells loaded equidistantly into the cylinder when you tighten the extractor rod.
That way you won't torque the extractor.
 
Dont use a steel punch on the cyl face or breach end like in the vid..

Taurus_SmallFrame_schem.jpg
 
I watched the model 82 video and I like the fact that Taurus gives you a hole in the frame to tap out the side plate.
If you ever have to remove a S&W or Colt side plate, you remove all of the side plate screws and give the grip frame a good whack with a small plastic mallet, while holding the barrel with your other hand. The side plate will pop off. Never pry off a side plate.
 
GOT IT! It was just so dirty the carbon was keeping the crane 'locked' in the cylinder retaining bushing, yet would still spin. A small screwdriver between the front of the cylinder and the crane (as a lever) with slight pressure popped it free. The only thing left is the cylinder bushing and it has what appear to be screwdriver slots and looks like it is threaded on a parts list I printed earlier today.
 

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