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Over burden the tank once and you will not enjoy your bath Nor the plastic in your skin.

That's why I said hand pump it first, check pressure to see where your at. But yeah, do this at your own risk or you will definitely be hating life. LOL! Maybe an old water fire extinguisher with air valve. Though the chemicals would probably wreck the metal innards.
 
Since part of my job is dealing with invasive plants, here are some tips:

Mix just enough product that you are gonna use it all and end up with an empty sprayer - product left in the sprayer can lose effectiveness and also really gum up the works.

Clean you're sprayer every time you use it. If you use it for glyphosate (what Round up is) label it as such. I have two sprayers, one strictly for glyphosate and the other for broadleaf killer.

Use indicator dye so you can keep track of where you've been. It will pay for itself in the time and herbicide you save. A little goes a very long way.

Glyphosate typically takes a week or more to show results so don't get discouraged if it looks like nothing is happening. Broadleaf herbicides work differently so the plants show stress much quicker.

This time of year be VERY careful not to spray when it is too warm, especially with broadleaf herbicide. If it evaporates it can drift and take out neighbors' gardens. Grapes are especially fragile. I stop spraying broadleaf herbicide at 75 degrees or so and glyphosate at 80. A light breeze is actually good as it mixes up the air better and lessens the chance of hurting neighboring plants.

For grasses and weeds in berry patches just paint herbicide on with an old rag tied to a stick. Use the same mix as if you were spraying.

Finally, FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTIONS. Monsanto/DOW/BAYER/ORTHO paid people a lot of money to make a product that works, so don't second guess their scientists. Too little of a mix you have poor kill; too hot you burn the tops but don't kill the roots.

Since you've got some experience with this - mind if I ask a question?

I'm planning to by a version of Triclopyr 4(e) to take care of some woody plants like blackberries. Years ago, a guy I knew did brush clearing for PGE and gave me one pre-mixed bottle of a version of Triclopyr 4 mixed with diesel - it killed blackberries like nothing I had ever seen. He told me not to use a mist type sprayer but the squeeze bottle he gave me had a fine nozzle that would spray a small stream. Just spray that around the base of the blackberries and they'd be brittle, totally dead in a couple of weeks.

We used that up and he no longer works there, so I started looking around and found what he gave me - Garlon aka Triclopyr 4. I found it cheaper with a different brand (Garlon is expensive) - Agri Star. I did a little reading and it looks like mixing it with diesel is a good idea, but some folks recommended a 'surfactant' and a little water. Several also mentioned buying some indicator like you mentioned. So I have all 3 in my cart, but I haven't made the purchase yet, as I want to be sure I have all the right stuff first.

So to my question - I assume you've worked with this stuff before. From stuff I've read, the instructions on the containers are generally for big uses, not little uses like mine. Do you know of a mix ratio of the Triclopyr to diesel to surfactant (if that's actually needed)?

I do understand it can be a bad idea to run this stuff through a regular sprayer since overspray could kill more than you wanted.
 
Jacto Inc. - Battery Backpack

jacto makes one that is powered by essentially a power tool battery I have only used their hand pump model and it is hands down the best hand pump model out there the powered version looks like it would work very well and every one I know who has used it have loved it.

I have used all of the commercial pump sprayers and jacto is the only one that doesn't leak on your back.
 
Wonder if you could simply drill a hole, get something like these:
View attachment 377774

View attachment 377775

Hand pump it first to see what your pressure is at, probably not much. Then use your air compressor on it. I have a low pressure tire gauge for my riding mower tires which is probably what you would use here.

The plastic ones would probably burst. The metal ones - maybe.

I have a pressure tank that can hold about 150 PSI. I could bring that along to pressurize a metal tank.
 
Jacto Inc. - Battery Backpack

jacto makes one that is powered by essentially a power tool battery I have only used their hand pump model and it is hands down the best hand pump model out there the powered version looks like it would work very well and every one I know who has used it have loved it.

I have used all of the commercial pump sprayers and jacto is the only one that doesn't leak on your back.

Nice.

Expensive though
 
One thing I learned is that it pays to understand what the dilution of the herbicide is. Sometimes it comes in 10% solution, sometime 80%. Usually says on the label. I found mixing glyphosate at 40% works well for me. The 10% stuff doesn't do anything.
 
I grew tired of the back pack sprayers and have a 25 gallon 12 volt sprayer I put in one of those cheap carts behind the mower. Got one of the small garden tractor batteries and power it with that. Charge lasts forever. I sprayed 25 gallons of glyphosate/ 24D/ surfactant mix this morning in about 40 minutes. I have about 30 feet of hose on this so I can get to about every spot I need to.

Some general rules for spraying after 40 years of spraying and 15 of that doing custom spraying of over 3,000 acres per year:

1 oz of spray concentrate per gallon of water of any formulation will get the job done.
Surfactant at .5 oz per gallon of water will make any herbicide more efficient and is worth every penny you spend.
As others have mentioned, do not spray 2 4 D or phenoxy herbicides above 80 degrees.
Low pressure, 65 lbs, larger droplet with a good surfactant will keep drift down and make your spray go farther.
In backpack sprayers with a PISTON PUMP DO NOT put a formulation with a clay based carrier in it. It will lock that pump up in the first tank. If you must use a formulation with a clay carrier, use a diaphram (sp) pump, it will last longer, but clay carriers will cause any pump to fail.
Dies are OK, but messy as hell.
There are glyphosate resistant rye grasses out there now. You have to really kick the rates up to get results.
You can spray pretty much any time, cold weather makes the plants react slower, new growth in the spring is always good, but early fall works good too.
 
So to my question - I assume you've worked with this stuff before. From stuff I've read, the instructions on the containers are generally for big uses, not little uses like mine. Do you know of a mix ratio of the Triclopyr to diesel to surfactant (if that's actually needed)?

Butting in here with my opinion or idea..That one oz per gallon of water on the chemical works pretty good. The diesel acts as a spreader / sticker in place of a surfactant. Keeps the chemical on the plant leaf longer and since some of the perennial weeds have waxy surfaces, it helps hold on for several photosynthesis cycles.
 
How do I know if a herbicide has a clay carrier?

It will usually say on the label as to the contents. Herbicides come in different formulations, the cheaper ones tend to be clay carriers. Typically anything you can purchase without a pesticide applicators at a farm store such as Wilco is not going to be a clay carrier. They are usually a liquid formulation, some may be emulsifiable concentrates which mix well too.
 
Since you've got some experience with this - mind if I ask a question?

I'm planning to by a version of Triclopyr 4(e) to take care of some woody plants like blackberries. Years ago, a guy I knew did brush clearing for PGE and gave me one pre-mixed bottle of a version of Triclopyr 4 mixed with diesel - it killed blackberries like nothing I had ever seen. He told me not to use a mist type sprayer but the squeeze bottle he gave me had a fine nozzle that would spray a small stream. Just spray that around the base of the blackberries and they'd be brittle, totally dead in a couple of weeks.

We used that up and he no longer works there, so I started looking around and found what he gave me - Garlon aka Triclopyr 4. I found it cheaper with a different brand (Garlon is expensive) - Agri Star. I did a little reading and it looks like mixing it with diesel is a good idea, but some folks recommended a 'surfactant' and a little water. Several also mentioned buying some indicator like you mentioned. So I have all 3 in my cart, but I haven't made the purchase yet, as I want to be sure I have all the right stuff first.

So to my question - I assume you've worked with this stuff before. From stuff I've read, the instructions on the containers are generally for big uses, not little uses like mine. Do you know of a mix ratio of the Triclopyr to diesel to surfactant (if that's actually needed)?

I do understand it can be a bad idea to run this stuff through a regular sprayer since overspray could kill more than you wanted.

Surfactant is product that does the same as diesel only MUCH more environmentally friendly. Basically, its job is to help herbicide stick to whatever you are spraying.

For blackberries you really don't need any, as the leaves are not waxy and liquids stay on them pretty well. Never hurts though and about 2 tablespoons per gallon is fine.

As to the mix, the container should give you the water to herbicide ratio.

Be real careful of drift with that stuff.

Good luck!
 
Surfactant is product that does the same as diesel only MUCH more environmentally friendly. Basically, its job is to help herbicide stick to whatever you are spraying.

For blackberries you really don't need any, as the leaves are not waxy and liquids stay on them pretty well. Never hurts though and about 2 tablespoons per gallon is fine.

As to the mix, the container should give you the water to herbicide ratio.

Be real careful of drift with that stuff.

Good luck!

Thanks! What I was finding online wasn't making it clear that diesel and surfactant were doing the same thing. I'll buy the surfactant and skip the diesel. And I'll definitely be careful of drift - where I'll be spraying, it will be very tightly targeted, no broad area spraying. The way I used the Garlon I was given years ago was to put it in a bottle like the one below - then spray a stream (not a mist), only at the base of the blackberries - worked amazing - no need to spray the leaves at all.

51zom12TqlL._SL1500_.jpg
 
Also, be careful on how you mark your sprayer with what's actually in it.
A couple of years ago, I pulled into my driveway to see my wife walking around my tomato plant fence spraying what she thought was Round up, but in reality was some commercial grade toxic mix of Agent Orange that my neighbor had given me in a similar looking unmarked sprayer.
Needless to say, all the tomato plants died a horrible death within a week.
 
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What happens when you do that? Does it off gas and kill plants nearby that weren't sprayed?

Yes. It volitizes and can drift off target even when applied directly to the target plant. That was a huge problem with the ester base formulations which are really not available anymore, they had mostly ag applications. The amine base formulations used now days are much more stable, but even those are pushing it above 80 degrees.

The problem was huge years ago in the Gorge areas when farmers used 24D ester formulations to control broafleaf weeds in wheat fields in Oregon and tjey got damage on grape crops in Washington. Extreme case.

Farmer sprayed some carelessly on a hot day within 50 feet of one of my cold frames and smoked 3,000 tomatoe plants. Made him pay for them or told him I would call Department of Ag.

Tomatoes, grapes, squashs, all very susceptible. Grapes will wilt if you hold a sealed container 10 feet away. Lot of nurseries plant grapes on the boundaries of the nursery to see if they get any drift damage, very good indicator.
 

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