"Henry's" build thread. (1989 Suburban)

[Member 34319]

That's exactly the reason for this build. By the time I loaded up my explorer with 2 kids, 2 dogs,and all the gear for camping, it was tetris trying to get it to fit.

Very cool. I figure a vehicle like this. I'd leave out the third row seat. If anything just install three bucket seats and leave the rest for storage or a bed. Put a rack on top with a decent roof tent and you'll have a reasonable rig for about 8-10 thousand. Depending on how much work needs done. This one looks very clean, so imagine it likely doesn't need a ton of chassis work. Most I've seen in that age group have pretty rotten chassis's. Axles and suspension on those older suburbans seems to be pretty durable and likely just needs some tlc. My biggest cost factor would be a crate motor and transmission rebuild. If I did most of the work, I believe I could do it for less than 10k.

 

[2Wheels4Ever]

Very cool. I figure a vehicle like this. I'd leave out the third row seat. If anything just install three bucket seats and leave the rest for storage or a bed. Put a rack on top with a decent roof tent and you'll have a reasonable rig for about 8-10 thousand. Depending on how much work needs done. This one looks very clean, so imagine it likely doesn't need a ton of chassis work. Most I've seen in that age group have pretty rotten chassis's. Axles and suspension on those older suburbans seems to be pretty durable and likely just needs some tlc. My biggest cost factor would be a crate motor and transmission rebuild. If I did most of the work, I believe I could do it for less than 10k.

The plan is to try and stay under $10, but as I start to rebuild some components I realize that it might go a bit over. I really wanted a NV4500, but they are insanely expensive on the used market. I guess everyone else wants one as well. Starting the project I thought I was going to be able to get a 100k mile donor ls for around $500. That was true in 2010, now they're double that for ones with 200k miles

 

[Member 34319]

The plan is to try and stay under $10, but as I start to rebuild some components I realize that it might go a bit over. I really wanted a NV4500, but they are insanely expensive on the used market. I guess everyone else wants one as well. Starting the project I thought I was going to be able to get a 100k mile donor ls for around $500. That was true in 2010, now they're double that for ones with 200k miles

Keep an eye open on Craigslist. That tranny shows up on occasion. Some in decent shape, some in pretty bad shape but for a good price.

 

[Unka-Boo]

Smoke on startup is likely valve stem seals and or worn guides...you can throw on some umbrella seals in the driveway if you wanna try, but with that many miles its prolly best to plan on R&R or repower...

 

[2Wheels4Ever]

Got a bit more insulation done and completely rebuilt the rear brakes. The drums took me a bit longer than expected.

 

[Pete F]

It's okay for an old original sbc with 190 on the clock. It runs smooth but smokes real bad on start up. It's white smoke so probably eating some coolant? The engine also has a bad stalling issue once it's warm. It doesn't like to come to a stop or turn slowly, say in a parking lot. It's probably some tps sensor or another in the tbi system.

Once the funds allow, the plan is to swap in a ls. I really wanted a 6.0, but they're twice the price of the 5.3 so that's is probably what I'll end up getting.

Originally I wanted to build a 383, but after pricing it out the ls is quite a bit more budget friendly.

Like Unka-Boo said, white smoke is burning oil, black is too rich gasoline. If it isn't smoke, then think coolant - rare. Motor/head rebuild, or long block will cure the problem. If you have a shop, rebuilding the motor isn't that bad and having someone else do new seals and valve job. My brother and I rebuilt a 1960 Jaguar (slug) six cylinder one summer and it actually ran afterwards

 

[Pete F]

Got a bit more insulation done and completely rebuilt the rear brakes. The drums took me a bit longer than expected.View attachment 666282View attachment 666283

I hate replacing those springs APITA. Good job! The insulation is coming along wonderfully. What is the cost for replacement carpets, or are you going to carpet the rear yourself using carpet on a roll?

 

[2Wheels4Ever]

I hate replacing those springs APITA. Good job! The insulation is coming along wonderfully. What is the cost for replacement carpets, or are you going to carpet the rear yourself using carpet on a roll?

Thanks, that was my first time messing with drums and I'm glad I won't have to do it again for a while.

I'm not a fan of carpet for off road/camping vehicles. I found a place that sells a molded vinyl flooring for this model. 81-91 VINYL FLOOR COVER - SUBURBAN-Brotherstrucks.com

Not sure on the quality, but I guess when the time comes I'm going to have to gamble the $400.

Edit: I just realized you asked about the back. My long term plan in to build in some storage on the sides and install a bed slider in between. For right now I have some rubber garage flooring on hand and am going to use that.

 

[Pete F]

Thanks, that was my first time messing with drums and I'm glad I won't have to do it again for a while.

I'm not a fan of carpet for off road/camping vehicles. I found a place that sells a molded vinyl flooring for this model. 81-91 VINYL FLOOR COVER - SUBURBAN-Brotherstrucks.com

Not sure on the quality, but I guess when the time comes I'm going to have to gamble the $400.

I like the vinyl flooring idea. My 1977 Ford F-250 had vinyl floor. It was great after being out in the mud, just hose it out. I wish that I had never sold it, but I wanted something newer and 4wd. I ended up buying a 1993 F-250 extended cab XLT. This was around 2004. It had 50K miles, 460 motor, 5 speed manual tranny and locking hubs. My biggest problem is moldy/mousey smelling carpet and interior. I am always trying to dry it out and get it to smell clean, especially after the winter. I just put in an Ozium gel canister and it smells better already. I don't drive it much due to the 11mpg. It had a nice Gemtop canopy that got crushed by a group of fir branches (3-4" diameter). I am still looking for another Gemtop to fit.

 

[Pete F]

I looked up your vinyl flooring. For the front and back, $400 doesn't seem too bad. I have a large truck catalog around somewhere and will look to see if they have any. I don't remember the name of the vendor, but will list it when I find it. I got it for buying replacement parts for my old 1977 F-250.

 

[revjen45]

Smoke on startup is likely valve stem seals and or worn guides...you can throw on some umbrella seals in the driveway if you wanna try, but with that many miles its prolly best to plan on R&R or repower...

What!?!
Don't they make STP any more?

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

It's okay for an old original sbc with 190 on the clock. It runs smooth but smokes real bad on start up. It's white smoke so probably eating some coolant? The engine also has a bad stalling issue once it's warm. It doesn't like to come to a stop or turn slowly, say in a parking lot. It's probably some tps sensor or another in the tbi system.

Once the funds allow, the plan is to swap in a ls. I really wanted a 6.0, but they're twice the price of the 5.3 so that's is probably what I'll end up getting.

Originally I wanted to build a 383, but after pricing it out the ls is quite a bit more budget friendly.

theres a 6.0 sitting in my work area...i havent boxed it up for a core return yet. if the core is cheap enough it might be worth buying and rebuilding. i just took it out of a 2004 express van on monday. i have no idea why it got replaced, the customer showed up and said "replace it" i can tell you that it did run and i didnt hear any noise. i'll ask parts how much the core is

 

[revjen45]

1) "454 would be fun, but you'd never be able to pass a gas station."
A fellow I knew built a '73 Jeep Commando body (probably on a GM/Chev truck chassis) with a 454, welded rearend (no diff action), and other off road stuff. It was a consummate off-road machine.
He invited me on a boondocking run in it, and I was impressed. We came to a hill being assailed by a troupe of VW off road fans, with 1 car on its top after rolling over trying to climb the hill. Dave put it in 4WD low and went up the hill in one smooth climb, never losing traction. The VW folks noticed. Then he started back down the hill, stopped abt 3/4 of the way down, and backed up to the top, again with perfect control all the way. They really noticed that. Yeah, it got lousy mileage and the tires chirped in turns from the welded up rear end, but it would go anywhere and had the power to meet any perceived need.

2) "My friggin 3.0 Toyota has the fuel economy of a v8 and the performance of a 4.. so I got that going on."
We wanted to build the '49 to recondition it in the original design philosophy with enough modern stuff for safety. i.e. 6 cyl, that was made for unleaded gas. manual shift, disc brakes. The shop doing the work had a Clifford Research 292 with Getrag 5-speed, which met my needs, so we went with that. It has straight thru Cherry Bomb glasspacks which sounds great when I open up the 4-bbl. Point being that like Certaindeaf I get the power of a 6 with the mileage of a big block. It cruises @ 70 which is as fast as I need.

 

[2Wheels4Ever]

I had some rubber garage flooring that was in good shape so I decided to use it as a temporary flooring. It won't be waterproof, so eventually I'll upgrade to a solid mat of some type.

I cut it to fit like a glove but after a few hours bin the sun, it expanded and started to push up at the seams, oh well.

 

[2Wheels4Ever]

Unfortunately I found a bit of rust on the driver's floorboards. Nothing on the bottom, so it was most likely from years of snowy boots melting and sitting in the nasty insulation. One spot goes through, so I'll need to fix this somehow.

 

[2Wheels4Ever]

Forgot to mention Henry got new shoes! The tires that were on it were all mismatch, all under 20% tread, and one was studded .

I paid more for the tires, wheels and rear brakes than I did for the entire rig. And there goes my budget

 

[2Wheels4Ever]

And last excitement over the weekend was a fat coolant leak. Both inside and outside the cab. What was it?

















Did you guess the heater core? It was the heater core.... That $20 part that takes a pro 6-8 hours and a noob like me probably double that. I'm not totally looking forward to this one as it involves lots of little fragile 30 year old plastic clips. Bummer. Well, the part is ordered and I get to watch plenty of YouTube videos about it before diving in. For now, the core is just bypassed. It was only 14 degrees this morning, who needs a heater anyways

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

Unfortunately I found a bit of rust on the driver's floorboards. Nothing on the bottom, so it was most likely from years of snowy boots melting and sitting in the nasty insulation. One spot goes through, so I'll need to fix this somehow. View attachment 668230

FLEX SEAL!!



kidding.

that 6.0 core is $2500 i believe. wayyyyyy too much

 

[Mikej]

I'm guessing the heater core is easier to replace than in a new(er) model?

 

[2Wheels4Ever]

It's been a little while since I've done anything big. I'm still trying to figure out the stalling issue at low speed. I've replaced the IAC and the PCV. They helped a bit, but not completely.

Next order of business on that issue is to rebuild the TBI.

Yesterday I was pretty excited about fixing the AC system. I completely removed the bad rear AC parts, replaced the dryer, evacuated the system of all the old R12 lubricant, replaced the orifice tube, all the o-rings, and a cracked high pressure switch. I checked the system for leaks and then did a R134a conversion. With fresh R134a and PAG oil it was all working great. Ice cold air and no apparent leaks.

This morning I went to check that it was still holding coolant and, to my dismay, the compressor has developed a very noticeable leak. Bummer... At least I know where the leak is I suppose.