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So I just started prepping my stash of mixed .223/5.56 cases to start loading. This is my first real go with these. While using my sizing and de priming die, I noticed that some were hard to do full stroke on. Upon inspection, it looks like they have a much smaller flash hole resulting in a lip of the flash hole being pushed into the primer pocket. How do I get rid of this anomaly as I'm sure it will effect the performance of the primer.

Also, is there something maybe I'm doing wrong? Any way to avoid it? I would say it's about 10% of them and all were crimped.

Thanks.
 
I understand that part and that'll be next. The problem I'm seeing is from depriming and the damage to the flash hole. I don't get it. The majority of the ones that are crimped are fine, it's just that 10%.
The flash hole or the primer pocket or the crimp proper itself?
I don't think it's possible to "damage" the flash hole or the primer pocket by depriming.
Have you ever reloaded military/crimped primer brass before?
 
The flash hole or the primer pocket or the crimp proper itself?
I don't think it's possible to "damage" the flash hole or the primer pocket by depriming.
Have you ever reloaded military/crimped primer brass before?
I'll try to get pics tomorrow. What I'm seeing is definitely the flash hole.

First time with military brass and trying to learn as much as possible.
 
I'll try to get pics tomorrow. What I'm seeing is definitely the flash hole.

First time with military brass and trying to learn as much as possible.
The only way I can visualize damaging a flash hole proper would be if a hell for stout decapper pin was set too low.. and was puckering the hole (giggity), or more properly, the bottom of the pocket, downward.
never seen or heard of that though
 
The only way I can visualize damaging a flash hole proper would be if a hell for stout decapper pin was set too low.. and was puckering the hole (giggity) downward.
never seen or heard of that though
That may be the issue. However, if I have it set much higher, some of the primers wouldn't come out. I'll play with it more tomorrow before I mess up any more. Thanks.
 
You are doing exactly the right thing. Noticing this anomoly. And it is unusual. If you are using reputible dies, this is probably a bad run of brass. With 223/.556 you can run into almost anything unusual. Good catch. And thanks for the heads up.
 
I've experienced this with military 5.56 cases. It doesn't happen a lot but it can certainly happen. Generally it doesn't create a problem but if a significant amount of brass is pushed into the primer pocket I use a dental pick to scrape it off. Hardly ever need to do that though.
 
First time reloading military brass I use a primer pocket uniformer
after removing any military crimp. To prevent a 'high primer' that can result
in a slam fire.:eek::eek: I also use a flash hole deburring
tool. Usually only on 'match' ammo. Flash Hole Deburring Tools | Case Preparation at Sinclair Inc
Primer pocket uniformer tools. Primer Pocket Tools | Case Preparation at Sinclair Inc
Over the years I have used and worn out many different tools. Now I love my
RCBS Prep Center.:D:D Set up with a primer pocket cleaner and uniformer,
flash hole deburring, case mouth chamfering and deburring.
RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center 110 Volt
 
Ron beat me to it, a primer pocket uniformer is definitely one of the tools I would keep around if military brass is on the menu. I didn't think I would need one until I encountered some brass that broke two RCBS pins and a LEE universal deprimer and yes it was boxer primed BBM 556, the pockets are incredibly sloppy on that brass and looks like a detonation Could occur if reprimed without a uniformer. Now I us my lyman tool on all 223/556 just for consistency and hopefully more uniform primer ignition.
 
The brass you are using if shot in a gun with a chamber slightly larger in diameter than what is normal might explain the "hard to do a full stroke on" assuming you have adequately lubed them to begin with.

I've seen a lot of variance regarding the burrs left during the punching aka shearing operation to make the flash hole. Much depends on the mfg tooling wear, the speed of operation (think production rate v. margins) and ductility of the brass - which varies among the various foundries.

RCBS offers a tool that can be chucked into a drill motor if you want to speed up operation Redding Flash Hole Deburring Tool 22 Cal Pilot

But you have to de-prime first before using it. Once done you can eliminate the burrs using the tool listed above.

LC should be uniform as should Winchester or RP or FC. I didn't see where you mentioned what your mixed brass consists of. It's likely that if you sort by headstamp (or year) first you would then be able to cull the headstamp type giving the most trouble. Also, check your decapping punch to ensure it's not damaged - bent or burred and the collet holding it in place is tight.
 
There is at least one brand of 5.56 brass that has smaller flashholes. I think I have some in the shop I'll dig through and find them when I get out there today. This kind of stuff is why I sort by headstamp.

Found it:p. Theheadstamp is IK. The flashole is just slightly smaller than a standard decapping pin, the pin will actually bore out the flashole a little and leave a little protruding ridge of brass right around the flashole. So that's one possible problem you may be having with that 10%. Often when problems like this arise it's the same headstamp causing the issue. You can see in the pic that the flashole on the right is considerably smaller.
20170205_080553.jpg
 
Last Edited:
There is at least one brand of 5.56 brass that has smaller flashholes. I think I have some in the shop I'll dig through and find them when I get out there today. This kind of stuff is why I sort by headstamp.

Found it:p. Theheadstamp is IK. The flashole is just slightly smaller than a standard decapping pin, the pin will actually bore out the flashole a little and leave a little protruding ridge of brass right around the flashole. So that's one possible problem you may be having with that 10%. Often when problems like this arise it's the same headstamp causing the issue. You can see in the pic that the flashole on the right is considerably smaller.
View attachment 340397
That protruding ridge is exactly what I'm seeing. I'm confident that the die is set correctly and the resistance I'm feeling is the pin trying to push through the small flash hole.

Thanks fellas. I see I need to acquire a couple of more tools too.
 
I separate all my LC brass reload it separately, and it makes thing's easier for me. Don't remember seeing the smaller holes, but never had that prob. The pocket cleaners are great. Mabey set that headstamp aside. Good luck.
 

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