Help! Info needed on an out of state transfer.

[The Heretic]

I usually do not buy high dollar items remotely - at least not from a private seller.

I did about a month ago - but it was from a very well known and respected NWFA member with whom I had dealt with before.

After some back and forth (originally, the seller was to meet FTF, but travel 200+ miles to do so), it was decided that he would ship the gun to a local FFL (Lucky Sporting Goods), then I would pay him via Zelle.

There were a few hiccups after I took delivery; I learned that my CU would only let me pay a small fraction of the amount owed (they had a daily and transaction limit), so it took some scrambling on my part to get him the $ I owed him promptly - I finally wound up using PayPal for the balance and then everybody was happy.

I got a very fine (seems ANIB) SIG 226 in .40 with a Mk25 slide/barrel kit in 9mm and an SRT for a quite reasonable price, he got his $ within an hour of me taking delivery. The FFL did not act as a broker for the $ amount, just the gun and the BGC - which he would have had to anyway.

 

[Hueco]

Hello all,

I had a forum member respond to my want ad for a shotgun. I would like to buy his shotgun. He is new on the forum and located in Seattle, and I am located south of Portland in Oregon.

He wants me to send him money for the shotgun directly, then he'll drop the shotgun at his FFL, to ship to my FFL. I hate this idea, since we don't know each other. I'd rather pay an FFL, since this member and I don't have any history. His phone number also comes back as a google internet phone number, so that feeds my skepticism about him being legitimate.

Is there a better way to do this?

How do you all recommend doing of state deals, private party.

Thanks in advance!

A legit seller isn't going to be afraid to over communicate. Ask for additional photos. Ask for those photos to include a paper with a signed username and date in it (check for photo manipulation on these - scammers are trying to add digital post-it notes with this sort of info to images. You can tell its digital because they all suck at light and shadow matching the source).

Reverse image search their images and pop their item descriptions into Google. Scammers are lazy and often cut and past from decades old threads...but the power of Google is strong.

Ask to FaceTime/Skype/whatever-you-call-video-conferencing to meet and ask questions about the gun.

Tell the seller you'll release funds as soon as the gun is at the FFL they're using for shipping. Look that FFL up online to find their business phone number (don't trust anything the seller gives you). Call their FFL directly and ask about them and the gun.

Calm down.

Scammers win when your excitement gets the better of you. Be defensive with your wallet and if you get the heebie-jeebies at all - then walk.

 

[The Heretic]

A legit seller isn't going to be afraid to over communicate. Ask for additional photos. Ask for those photos to include a paper with a signed username and date in it (check for photo manipulation on these - scammers are trying to add digital post-it notes with this sort of info to images. You can tell its digital because they all suck at light and shadow matching the source).

If it is a gun, ask for images of the bolt wear on some rifles, or the top of the barrel or the rails on semis like a SIG/Glock/etc. - something that requires they take the gun apart, that isn't included in the original set of photos and is normal for examining a gun. Most authentic sellers won't mind at all as these are common wear points.

Scammers will usually respond that they don't have the gun handy (it's at their other house/parent's/brothers, or they are out of town, etc., or it is packed away, or some other excuse why they can't take a specific photo).

 

[Mark W.]

I've bought quite a few used firearms from Muzzle loaders at Rendezvous to an Remington R1 with 7 rounds through it. I always meet the seller where the seller suggest I always bring cash money for the asking price and I never leave without a full look at the firearm inside and out (no disassembly) In the maybe half dozen or more I have bought through this forum all the guys have been stand up guys fair prices (one or two killer deals) and I believe both parties were happy with the results. I will not do a deal long distance unless its someone I have been acquainted with for a while. I traded a 10-22 for a Win 1906 and a weird Mauser Target rifle project long distance but I had been talking to this guy for more then a year in the old Chat. You gotta do what your comfortable with.

 

[solv3nt]

I did about a month ago - but it was from a very well known and respected NWFA member with whom I had dealt with before.

Known AND respected?!?!? Man, you've really narrowed your options with that second requirement!

 

[Mikej]

Known AND respected?!?!? Man, you've really narrowed your options with that second requirement!

See, they key is, to be a decent guy and get lots of feed back buying/selling small ticket items. Stay with the board and become well known. Then, after 11 years. When your well trusted/known, you can swoop in for the BIG scam and get out with the prize! Bwa-Ha-Ha-Ha. I'm almost there!

 

[The Heretic]

Known AND respected?!?!? Man, you've really narrowed your options with that second requirement!

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