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High Power Rifle competitors common practice is to add weights to the rifle for balance and to
reduce the wobble in offhand stage. What majority of shooters now use is the Magpul UBR Gen 1
with a Stealth Ballistics weight. My 20 inch Service Rifle Weighs 16.2 pounds.
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On the front end they make a weight that fits under the handguards against the float tube.
Service Rifle Flat tube with A2 Handguards.
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Weight that fits in the lower handguard.
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I have some of the old weights that fit the A2 stock I will sell you cheap.
 
Just placed my order for a 24" 6.5 barrel. Finally found a good deal and in stock! It's a long process but sometimes a fun one to slowly piece a rifle together.
 
Fill the Mag with lead......Idea stolen from my Bohica.
Probly could fill part of the PRS with shot.....I forget how they are construkted?
 
I'm guessing this is because you have lowers already? Otherwise I'd recommend going the bolt action route. Custom stocks in that realm can be manufactured to specific weights. Weights can also be interchangeable on some models.

If that's the case, and since you already started buying parts, there are plenty of means to add weight. It just depends on what you want and how you want to do it.

It can be as simple as placing wheel weights wherever possible. Or just strapping a weighted bag to the front.

Expensive options include ARCA, which is basically just the standard for DSLR crowd, or camera enthusiasts. Gun guys added it to stuff and all of a sudden that R&D will raise the cost of the rail from 100 to 300-400. Then there are all sorts of ARCA rails and weights that can be added to further increase weight.

Ghetto jerry rigging options, you can drill holes everywhere the receiver thickness allows and epoxy lead into all the holes. This might be more aesthetically pleasing. If F1 can remove this much and remain functional, you could replace it with lead and weight that mofo down.

I did a 24" AR because I wanted to. It was very heavy. It was still a semi though so it was still plagued by feeding related inaccuracies. You will likely have the same potential for precision and accuracy being a semi as all semis. It won't matter how much weight you add, it won't outweigh a precision bolt gun of similar weight. So if weight is the deciding factor for added precision, maybe it isn't all that necessary to try and get it into the 20# class?
 
I'm guessing this is because you have lowers already? Otherwise I'd recommend going the bolt action route. Custom stocks in that realm can be manufactured to specific weights. Weights can also be interchangeable on some models.

If that's the case, and since you already started buying parts, there are plenty of means to add weight. It just depends on what you want and how you want to do it.

It can be as simple as placing wheel weights wherever possible. Or just strapping a weighted bag to the front.

Expensive options include ARCA, which is basically just the standard for DSLR crowd, or camera enthusiasts. Gun guys added it to stuff and all of a sudden that R&D will raise the cost of the rail from 100 to 300-400. Then there are all sorts of ARCA rails and weights that can be added to further increase weight.

Ghetto jerry rigging options, you can drill holes everywhere the receiver thickness allows and epoxy lead into all the holes. This might be more aesthetically pleasing. If F1 can remove this much and remain functional, you could replace it with lead and weight that mofo down.

I did a 24" AR because I wanted to. It was very heavy. It was still a semi though so it was still plagued by feeding related inaccuracies. You will likely have the same potential for precision and accuracy being a semi as all semis. It won't matter how much weight you add, it won't outweigh a precision bolt gun of similar weight. So if weight is the deciding factor for added precision, maybe it isn't all that necessary to try and get it into the 20# class?
It's for fun. I have 3 lowers I need to do something with and absolute precision isn't necessarily the main thing here, though I totally understand what you're getting at.
 
It's for fun. I have 3 lowers I need to do something with and absolute precision isn't necessarily the main thing here, though I totally understand what you're getting at.
Well in that case!!!

Id totally have fun messing around with it if I were you. I'd be a mad scientist in the corner drilling holes everywhere and putting lead rod into them! It be as heavy as one of those rail guns by the time Im finished! Then I'd still find a way to bolt it to a bench!
 
I'm looking at "building" a 6.5CM AR10 with the intent of shooting no less than 1k yards. I'd choose a bigger cartridge if it'd fit, but anyway... 114 changes things. I want this sucker to be heavy to suck up any recoil the already pipsqueak 6.5 produces. What I've found for options are a 24" heavy profile BA barrel, likely using my sandman L on front and a Magpul PRS at the back. From there, I'm not sure how to get more weight than standard AR10s. Quad rail? Steel inserts? I'm open to suggestions.
.950 barrel. I have one in 308, it flings disasters. I used to have a steel buffer tube too.
 
I'm looking at "building" a 6.5CM AR10 with the intent of shooting no less than 1k yards. I'd choose a bigger cartridge if it'd fit, but anyway... 114 changes things. I want this sucker to be heavy to suck up any recoil the already pipsqueak 6.5 produces. What I've found for options are a 24" heavy profile BA barrel, likely using my sandman L on front and a Magpul PRS at the back. From there, I'm not sure how to get more weight than standard AR10s. Quad rail? Steel inserts? I'm open to suggestions.
I have a Safety Harbor 50cal upper on a magless AR lower and I used an A2 but stock filled with lead. It does help dampen recoil.
 
"It Flings Disasters" LOLz
That's better'n a rifle that "patterns"!

Joe
I was totally fixing on selling it until I hit something out to about 800 just "guesstimating" drop in my simple cross hair scope. That's when it flung a disaster at my wallet; needed to be lightened. Skelton aluminum stock and carbon handguard, poly/alum bipod.

IMG_20230215_154456_01.jpg
 
I'm looking at "building" a 6.5CM AR10 with the intent of shooting no less than 1k yards. I'd choose a bigger cartridge if it'd fit, but anyway... 114 changes things. I want this sucker to be heavy to suck up any recoil the already pipsqueak 6.5 produces. What I've found for options are a 24" heavy profile BA barrel, likely using my sandman L on front and a Magpul PRS at the back. From there, I'm not sure how to get more weight than standard A.R10s. Quad rail? Steel inserts? I'm open to suggestions.
I'm curious. If you are only going to use it for "no less" than 1k, why buy a semi-auto?

I have a similar bucket list item (1 mile) But I'm using a bit action rifle, in .338 Lapua Magnum.

The problem I'm having is finding a place to shoot a mile. :)
 
I'm curious. If you are only going to use it for "no less" than 1k, why buy a semi-auto?

I have a similar bucket list item (1 mile) But I'm using a bit action rifle, in .338 Lapua Magnum.

The problem I'm having is finding a place to shoot a mile. :)
Because I can.
 
I'm looking at "building" a 6.5CM AR10 with the intent of shooting no less than 1k yards. I'd choose a bigger cartridge if it'd fit, but anyway... 114 changes things. I want this sucker to be heavy to suck up any recoil the already pipsqueak 6.5 produces. What I've found for options are a 24" heavy profile BA barrel, likely using my sandman L on front and a Magpul PRS at the back. From there, I'm not sure how to get more weight than standard AR10s. Quad rail? Steel inserts? I'm open to suggestions.
 
I don't believe in adding dead weight. I prefer useful weight you can use a shooting bag that you can strap around your rail as mentioned a heavy scope, heavy bipod, I muzzle break with a large muzzle blast redirector, PRS Style stock. I pistol grip insert with spare parts or tools, scope mount with attachable gizmos like data card holder.
 
I don't believe in adding dead weight. I prefer useful weight you can use a shooting bag that you can strap around your rail as mentioned a heavy scope, heavy bipod, I muzzle break with a large muzzle blast redirector, PRS Style stock. I pistol grip insert with spare parts or tools, scope mount with attachable gizmos like data card holder.
Neat. I want some dead weight and I don't care how useful it is. It's my project, you can have a "most useful AR possible" thread if you prefer
 
Neat. I want some dead weight and I don't care how useful it is. It's my project, you can have a "most useful AR possible" thread if you prefer
don't you just love when your thread is poo-pooed for someone else's better ideas?

Anyway, I have an idea for ya.. Get one of those grips with the battery storage compartments and cut some steel round stock to fit, or epoxy lead shot into the inside of your regular A2 grip. you'd have to stick an evil plastic straw (assault straw) into the screw hole to make a channel for it, or grease a super long bolt. I think the easier off the shelf is the bar stock in the battery storage tray. hope this helps.
I have a brand new Taiwanese A2 stock laying in my parts pin. If you want, i could fill that with epoxy and fishing weights for ya.
 

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