Headspace gauges

[TTSX]

Recently I've been getting more and more into old milsurp rifles and have decided that headspace gauges are in order before I even attempt to shoot them. As of so far i have 8mm Mauser and 30-06 gauges but I can't for the life of me find a 6.5x52mm (carcano) set. Just bought an old carcano but I'm understandably concerned that anything from ww1 may have..... wear. Anyone know where I can find some of the less common gauge sets, specifically field and no-go. Or am I just unreasonably concerned? None of my milsurps have yet to close on a no-go, let alone field. Any advice/experience/input highly appreciated.

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[Joe13]

If I were asking that question I would start with:

@Velzey
&
@LuckySG

 

[Lazyfaire]

6.5 x 52 Carcano (CIP) Headspace Gauge Set (Min / Max) - Pacific Tool and Gauge

6.5mm x 52 Mannlicher-Carcano Headspace Gauge Set (Go / No-Go / Field) Made in White City Oregon USA. Making Firearm Parts and Chamber Reamers Since 1957.

pacifictoolandgauge.com

 

[TTSX]

saw that link, but didn't like the description of min/max gauges. States on the site that it should still be checked with gauges if it closes on a "max" so i don't know that I'd gain anything unless I was re-barreling?

 

[arrowshooter]

Here is the whole statement, and IMO it is stating that if you want to know if the chamber is still serviceable you should use this MAX Gauge. The wording is kind of tricky.

MAX: Corresponds to the maximum headspace recommends for gunsmiths chambering new, bolt action rifles. To determine if there is excessive headspace, the chamber should then be checked with a gauge. Max gauge is a valuable tool for checking a newly-reamed chamber in order to ensure a tight and accurate chamber.

 

[bolus]

Headspace Gages Archives

Headspace Gages Exclusive Forster quality offers the best way to check your rifle chamber for safety. Your safety and performance are on the line. Improper headspace may be dangerous to the shooter as well as an impairment to accuracy. The proper use of Headspace Gages is the most reliable way...

www.forsterproducts.com

They have go, no-go and field sizes

Field size is the maximum longest safe headspace. But I'd be a little worried if it closed on a field gauge because it would be the dangerously close to the maximum safe headspace.

 

[LuckySG]

NATO callibers are a bit different. They have max and Min. Feel free to exchange 5.56 for .223, but I would not go on record to do the same for .308.

 

[TTSX]

Headspace Gages Archives

Headspace Gages Exclusive Forster quality offers the best way to check your rifle chamber for safety. Your safety and performance are on the line. Improper headspace may be dangerous to the shooter as well as an impairment to accuracy. The proper use of Headspace Gages is the most reliable way...

www.forsterproducts.com

They have go, no-go and field sizes

Field size is the maximum longest safe headspace. But I'd be a little worried if it closed on a field gauge because it would be the dangerously close to the maximum safe headspace.

But not in 6.5x52mm. Or at least, not that I could find? Grrrrr. Darn things

 

[LuckySG]

Recently I've been getting more and more into old milsurp rifles and have decided that headspace gauges are in order before I even attempt to shoot them. As of so far i have 8mm Mauser and 30-06 gauges but I can't for the life of me find a 6.5x52mm (carcano) set. Just bought an old carcano but I'm understandably concerned that anything from ww1 may have..... wear. Anyone know where I can find some of the less common gauge sets, specifically field and no-go. Or am I just unreasonably concerned? None of my milsurps have yet to close on a no-go, let alone field. Any advice/experience/input highly appreciated.

Here are the common 6.5 gauges:

Belted / Rimmed -
6.5 STW
6.5 Rem. Mag.

Rimless -
6.5-06
6.5-284
6.5 Creedmoor
6.5x257 Roberts
6.5 x 55 Swede
6.5 SKAN

 

[TTSX]

NATO callibers are a bit different. They have max and Min. Feel free to exchange 5.56 for .223, but I would not go on record to do the same for .308.

right on. So I should be fine with a min/max set? if it closes on max, what then?

 

[whitney]

Start here. Cartridge & Chamber Drawings – SAAMI

I did not see the chamber you specified but there is a general theme to all chamber specifications per SAAMI.
Note the machining tolerance for length is + 0.015". You can have these manufactured to the tolerance you like but MAX length corresponds to max allowable wear of the chamber from the bolt face, this is why the chamber should be checked if it closes on a MAX gauge. You would be safe with the $70 gauge set from PTG.

~Whitney

 

[LuckySG]

right on. So I should be fine with a min/max set? if it closes on max, what then?

Bad news, too much room in there. The Max gauge is longer than a Field gauge.

 

[Sniper03]

If all the parts on the Rifle is Original I would be more worried about the Throat Erosion. Because the Throat will be wearing away long before the Headspace Dimensions change. However if a Barrel or Bolt is changed on the Rifle Headspace needs to be checked. Regarding the Throat you will usually see signs of a severely worn Throat by inspecting the Fired Casings. One thing is what we call Primer Flow. Where the Primer looks flat in the Primer Pock Hole and the Primer has flowed and completely fills in the pocket all around. The Primer looking very Flat from the pressure. A normal fired primer should have a very small gap between the Pocket and the outside of the Primer if the Throat and Headspace is OK. The one on the far Left is perfect. The Second Firing Pin Protrusion Issue being a Punctured Primer (Serious Issue and the Rifle should not be fired until the issue is remedied) The Third from the Left show the Flow of the Primer need to keep an eye on it. The Fourth from the Left is a serious issue. And the Fifth a hazard.
But best to go On Line and locate the Gauges. And for the best price possible. I get most of my Gauges from Brownells and Forster Products.


03

 

[TTSX]

Thanks for the input, guys! I'll set the min/max set coming and rest easy

 

[P7M13]

If it closes on a field gauge, add a piece of cellophane tape to the end of the gauge (~4 mils). If it still closes, think on whether you want to continue.
If the maximum shoulder is too long for spec, you have to realize, you can still shoot the gun, but it's now a wildcat. Also realize, you may have case stretching that makes the brass just above the case head unsafe.
If you go this route, run at lower pressures anyway. The old Karl Gustav Swede rifles were not built for the 50K PSI cartridges of today and shouldn't be loaded as such. I imagine the same goes for the carcano.

 

[BoringCruffler]

Have you talked to the folks at Clymer Tool?

They'll make you a one-off for what always seems too cheap to me (my last ones were $45/gauge).

 

[whitney]

If your chamber is "MAXed" out you can have it re-chambered. I am not familiar with this firearm but typically you would unscrew the barrel from the receiver cut a little off and make a new / fresh chamber. There is a LOT more to it than that, I have oversimplified for brevity. There is of course a cost associated with the machine work and you will have to weigh that factor by your own standards. Machine work is not inexpensive, but a good machinist could prolong the life of your rifle for your grandchildren to enjoy.

~Whitney

 

[Velzey]

right on. So I should be fine with a min/max set? if it closes on max, what then?

In this case that they don't make a field gauge. Take a piece of thick masking tape and place it on the base of the max gauge. And gently try to close the bolt.
Always remember to remove the extractor when checking headspace.

 

[Cheapdad]

There has been much discussion regarding headspace over the years on Gunboards forums. It seems to mage a big difference if you are reloading, not so much if you leave the case lay?

 

[TTSX]

There has been much discussion regarding headspace over the years on Gunboards forums. It seems to mage a big difference if you are reloading, not so much if you leave the case lay?

To me, it's a single step towards making sure an old rifle isn't going to blow up in my face. Would be nice to load for it, though I'm not sure I plan to shoot it so much the dies will really be worth it. Historical/collectors value. Neat parts of history