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I was wondering what distance others zero their handguns at. I basically zero my light, shorter barreled and self defense firearms at 10 paces. I figure a fist sized group rapid fire at that distance in the center of a paper plate is minute of bad guy. Next I zero my heavier and longer barrels, ones that are more target shooters at 25 yds. Again a fist sizes group in the center of the paper plate is the desired grouping but I struggle here. Lastly I have long barreled revolvers in what I would call hunting calibers that I like to shoot at 50 yds. A couple of these guns are new to me so I will be practicing more with them.
 
10 paces to me is 10 yards, as I've got a consistent 3 foot pace walk.

That's a good distance for general defense type zeroing. Depending on the caliber and load used, you won't come off of zero much extending the distance another 5-7 yards.
 
I check the guns accuracy off the bench first at 25 yards. Then I shoot off hand to check my accuracy. Gun always shoot better than I can o_O My best training is either 6 inch steel targets at 10 yards or 6 inch dueling tree at 10 yards. Reactive targets are best after you sight the gun in as it makes you a faster more competent shot....in my opinion.
 
Here's an interesting article on engagement distances to maybe help decide on practice distances:


I'd tend to agree with OP with the 10 & 25 yards. I like to use paper plates with dot sticker for targets due to how cheap they are. When I'm at the range and people claim how badly they shot, I simply hold the paper plate to my chest so they can see that it would still be pretty effective shooting.
 
Here's an interesting article on engagement distances to maybe help decide on practice distances:


I'd tend to agree with OP with the 10 & 25 yards. I like to use paper plates with dot sticker for targets due to how cheap they are. When I'm at the range and people claim how badly they shot, I simply hold the paper plate to my chest so they can see that it would still be pretty effective shooting.
Just funing now :D hopefully if I would ever have to shoot in self defense the bad guy would be wearing white so I get a good sight picture.
 
10 paces to me is 10 yards, as I've got a consistent 3 foot pace walk.

That's a good distance for general defense type zeroing. Depending on the caliber and load used, you won't come off of zero much extending the distance another 5-7 yards.

Here's an interesting article on engagement distances to maybe help decide on practice distances:


I'd tend to agree with OP with the 10 & 25 yards. I like to use paper plates with dot sticker for targets due to how cheap they are. When I'm at the range and people claim how badly they shot, I simply hold the paper plate to my chest so they can see that it would still be pretty effective shooting.

Just funing now :D hopefully if I would ever have to shoot in self defense the bad guy would be wearing white so I get a good sight picture.
I like practicing at self defense distance, at point blank, I get one little hole :s0140:
 
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I like practicing at self defense distance, at at point blank, I get one little hole :s0140:
I am an old fart, things changed over time switching from revolvers to semi autos.

Back when everyone shot revolvers one handed from the draw they used all black silhouette targets.

Idea was you won't see the bullet impact so you trained shooting the fundamentals.

Other changes along the way but now it seems a tan target like the IPSC target is the standard.

I like reactive steel but you get bullet splashing if you are too close. :confused:
 
I don't know that I've ever Zeroed a handgun at all. Except my hunting revolvers, but that's a different story to me I suppose.... I do the majority of my shooting between 30 and 50ft so as long as I can hit my 6" plate I'm content. You have me thinking a little more about that
 
10 paces to me is 10 yards, as I've got a consistent 3 foot pace walk.

That's a good distance for general defense type zeroing. Depending on the caliber and load used, you won't come off of zero much extending the distance another 5-7 yards.
I do shoot at other distances and range by guestamation, these act as solid reference points for me.
 
I don't know that I've ever Zeroed a handgun at all. Except my hunting revolvers, but that's a different story to me I suppose.... I do the majority of my shooting between 30 and 50ft so as long as I can hit my 6" plate I'm content. You have me thinking a little more about that
There is IMHO kind of two schools of thought, one with fixed sights is to find the load your particular firearm shoots to point of aim, some call this regulated. Again IMHO the other choice is to shoot the ammo you like to shoot and adjust the sights accordingly. This is why I prefer adjustable sights.
 
There is IMHO kind of two schools of thought, one with fixed sights is to find the load your particular firearm shoots to point of aim, some call this regulated. Again IMHO the other choice is to shoot the ammo you like to shoot and adjust the sights accordingly. This is why I prefer adjustable sights.
I think that is good advice.
It also depends on if the goal is bulleyes accuracy at distance vs. speed shooting at 6" - 8" or larger targets at close distances.
If I am trying to be as accurate as I can possibly be at 25 yards, I shoot the specific load that I zeroed that handgun with. Most of the time my hands are not steady enough to be an accurate bullseye shooter at 25 yards. I have not yet been successful shooting Kyle Defoor's B8 target challenge, but I keep trying...
I have spent enough time reloading and benchrest shooting various 9mm recipes to know that different recipes group at different locations on the target, so set your sights accordingly if trying for bullseye shooting..
An advantage of adjustable iron sights is they can be set precisely for a specific ammo and then readjusted for something different. I personally prefer solid sights on a defensive handgun for other reasons. Another aspect of the equation is if the handgun is equipped with a red-dot, in which case sight adjustments are fast and easy.
 
When I bought an RMR the instructions said to zero it at 25yds. I thought that was rather long, but I read somewhere the longer you zero the less vertical displacement at shorter ranges. I did it and it seems to work at closer ranges just point and shoot.

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My 6" woods-carry hunting/SD revolvers (.357 mag or .44mag) I always zeroed at 25 yards. Then I would hold over the front sight (above the line of the back sights) by about half the front sight at 6' distance, by about 1/4 the front sight at 12', and by just a smidge at 20'. (With full power heavy loads, 180 gr for .357, 305 gr for 44.) The sights would be close enough to dead on from 25 feet to 50 yards, and for the .44 about 1" low at about 75 yards and about 3" low at 100 yards. These latter two figures I lifted from Buffalo Bore ballistics tables, as the best outdoor practice area I had was good for 6 feet to 40 yards only. The corrections at near distances matter for shooting snakes in the brain at near distances. Or rabbits in the head while hiking. Or theoretical squirrels. (As far as I know, if I am thinking about small game for the stew pot, all squirrels magically transport themselves miles away. Fortunately rabbits dont.) Accuracy shooting small things at close range is also useful when butchering chickens or geese by shooting them in the brain at 12'-- emotionally easier on me and the poultry than chasing, catching, etc.

Basically I didn't need to correct for longer distances, as with small game, open sights, and offhand or sitting position, 30 yards was about my limit for small game and 75 yards was about my limit for deer.

25 yard sight in for handguns has the advantage that that is what is used in all the Buffalo Bore ballistic tables. And its a practical sight in distance for hunting with handguns with open sights.

I get revolvers with full size adjustable sights only so I can adjust them for the particular load. I also try to use practice ammo similar in power and bullet weight to my for-really ammo.
 
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