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Can you drive in a close enough width flat tip screw driver and turn it out with that? You may have to tap on the end of the handle with a hammer as you turn it out. Then when it gets out enough grab it with vise grips.
 
Can you drive in a close enough width flat tip screw driver and turn it out with that? You may have to tap on the end of the handle with a hammer as you turn it out. Then when it gets out enough grab it with vise grips.
I'm not set up for anything like that. Thanks though.
 
Usually customers like to start drilling out the bolt/screw off center and then break the drillbit or bolt extractor off before taking it to get help. I would always shake my head and mumble crosswords while fixing what they made worse. Your doing the right thing by sourcing a competent machinist to fix the problem.
 
Find a torx bit that is a snug fit when you start in in the hex. Tap the torx bit in until it bites, and remove. Torx bits are tapered from the tip. If you can get the six points to bite in at the corners of the rounded hex, you can get it out. Done it many times before.
 
Looks like Oregon Timberwolf is packing up and moving out of the state. Today or tomorrow is their last open day.

Anyone know of someone else in the area, in case they can't get to it?
 
Find a torx bit that is a snug fit when you start in in the hex. Tap the torx bit in until it bites, and remove. Torx bits are tapered from the tip. If you can get the six points to bite in at the corners of the rounded hex, you can get it out. Done it many times before.

The head is cracked, so it just flexes open whether I use an allen or torx bit.
 
OT just got back to me. He said he'd look at it on Tuesday. If that doesn't work out, I'll get in touch with you. Where in Portland are you?
 
In the meantime, if it won't hurt any finishes near the screw a small amount of Kroil could help greatly and it's pleasant aroma doubles as an attractant. If you have any knowledge about red Loctite being used, pass that information onto the person doing the repair.

Find a torx bit that is a snug fit when you start in in the hex. Tap the torx bit in until it bites, and remove. Torx bits are tapered from the tip. If you can get the six points to bite in at the corners of the rounded hex, you can get it out. Done it many times before.

Sometimes this kind of stuff will work, however you can also end up breaking off a piece of hardened and tempered tool steel in the part. After that happens the repair person is pretty much stuck using more expensive carbide tooling instead of a cheap left hand drill bit, that probably would have backed the screw out shortly after making contact with the screw.
 
Last Edited:
UPDATE:

I went to Oregon Timberwolf yesterday afternoon. You were right - great guy! Wished they weren't moving, but I understand why they are.

Anyway, he looked at it and tried the simple stuff. He managed to break off half of the head and found that the screw was flawed. The screw head thickness was thinner than it should be. I left it with him - sounds like he'll have to use the mill to take the rest of the head off.

I'll update again when I get it back.

Thanks to everyone for their recommendations!
 

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