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so I just bought my first 10MM. Xdm 10mm with a 5.25 barrel. I don't reload yet but with the price of 10MM I see it happening in my future. I see Armscor, Magtech and S&B for decent prices. Around $15-16 per 50. I'm looking for good plinking ammo that is also good for reloading. I gave no plan on loading them hot.

Again.. I'm brand new to 10 MM and have never reloaded so please keep the flames down. Just looking for advice.
 
I have only fired a few factory 10mm rounds. I seem to remember Armscor being pretty weak sauce, I would assume the other two would be as well. Just be sure whatever you buy is brass cased so It can be reloaded. You will only shoot 10mm for so long before you try the good stuff. That's what 10mm is all about. No fun until the other guys at the range are expecting a 9mm and you start shooting fireballs down range.
 
so I just bought my first 10MM. Xdm 10mm with a 5.25 barrel. I don't reload yet but with the price of 10MM I see it happening in my future. I see Armscor, Magtech and S&B for decent prices. Around $15-16 per 50. I'm looking for good plinking ammo that is also good for reloading. I gave no plan on loading them hot.

Again.. I'm brand new to 10 MM and have never reloaded so please keep the flames down. Just looking for advice.

Should be no flames for this. I use S&B for practice and to get brass for loading. Seems great. When I saw that Springfield was offering the XD line in 10mm I liked the idea a LOT. Should make a great choice.
 
I can't think of any 10mm ammo that comes with such bad brass that I wouldn't want to reload... If this concerns you, I say just buy fresh Starline brass when you are ready to reload and don't worry about the once fired brass for now. What I would like to emphasize is the reloading dies. I strongly recommend the Redding dies if you could afford.
 
I think 10mm is best reloaded.

Or with specialty ammo, Underwood/Buffalo Bore/etc.

Lots of the inexpensive stuff is really weak. Probably close to that of 40sw.

Going from weak ammo to potent loads can be a surprise if all you have shot is weak loads.

Just my opinion.
 
beware of gun-show 'remanufactured' stuff.....I bought a case a few years back to feed my then-new 10mm pistol. Even though it wasn't 'hot' the 180 g load never performed very well regardless of platform. That led me to working thru a lot of different recipes to come up with a few loads I really like....and for considerably less cost/round than what I can buy retail.

In actuality, the most accurate 10mm rounds I personally have found, for my set up, is the factory Sig defense and the factory Sig target boxes. Still too spendy but a real pleasure that encourages further recipe development.
 
I've reloaded S&B, Sig, PPU, and Armscor 10mm brass.

I have had a few case mouth splits on the PPU brass after about 5 target loads. My target loads are 180gr clocking in at ~1250fps. Stouter than the factory loading of the PPU and Armscor stuff.

Enjoy the 10mm.

I'm not sure how durable those XDms are gonna be with heavy loads. Keep an eye out for excessive slide velocity if you start loading warm stuff. I think a lot of guns are timed and sprung to run with weak factory loads.
 
I'll confirm the PPU stuff being probably the worst.

I had cases split on first reloads.

I want to say they were the most noticeably weaker case.
 
Going from weak ammo to potent loads can be a surprise if all you have shot is weak loads.

I had shot a number of the bowling pin matches with 40 S&W in a short barreled revolver. It gave what I considered 'ample' for the task of knocking them down....yet required careful placement to get them OFF the table as required.

Then I gave the mighty 10mm a try....surprise surprise.....the dang pin actually moved back about 3 feet BEFORE it fell over, which by then was the ground, not the table....thereby producing a whole new game to enjoy.
 
Am I the only one having trouble with S&B brass?

I think the primer pockets are a bit tighter or the edge of the primer pocket is more squared off. I get about 3 to 4% where the primer doesn't go in. I tossed all my S&B brass and don't buy it anymore. Maybe I could have reamed them but for me it is not worth the effort.

A while back I weighed samples of various brands and found the Sig brass weighs a little more than Federal, S&B, and Starline. I don't know if the extra brass is in the right places but I figure for 10mm it can't hurt.

BTW, the factory Sig ammo cronographs quite a bit lower than the 1250 fps stated on the box. The Federal trophy bonded measures pretty much as advertised. And the difference in recoil is very satisfying.
 
It's pretty close to the same pressure as 9mm.. most people that load 9mm use mixed range brass and will toss any brass that's cracked and or won't hold a primer or bullet any more.
do that
 

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