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Gonna' build my first AR kinda'.

GOG

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It's finished, pics in the last post. :cool:

I decided it's time I build one. I don't care for them much, but I want to build a pistol for my fiance.
So I cheated and bought a nitride Shockwave pistol kit on sale at PSA and a Sig Romeo5 with 10 Pmags.
I know it's cheating to start with a kit, but it makes sense at that price.

I do want to buy and finish an 80% lower for it, but I don't have a drill press or an endmill, so I don't know if it's feasable with my hand tools.
I was looking at some Anderson and Machine Technology lowers as well as some no name stuff, but I really like the MT.
I just don't know if I can build it.

I could use more than a few pointers, I'm a rookie at the whole process.

Thanks.

Don't laugh.

;)
 
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You’ll have better luck with a router than a drill press. The 5D Tactical is THE jig to get. A bench vise is necessary. So is some cutting oil or other quality lubricant. That and time. Don’t rush or get cocky, it won’t end well. :)
 
OP
GOG

GOG

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I have a router & a bench vise.
I've seen so many different jigs it's crazy. I'm also being cheap because this is likely the only AR I'll ever build.

However, it has to be good stuff. It's for my gal and it has to be a good gun.
I believe the PSA upper will do, we want a solid shooter, not a match gun.
But then I don't know much. :s0092:
 
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For machining aluminum, WD-40 is hard to beat, it's my favorite for everything except threading. Google "feeds and speeds" for more detailed info on actually doing the machining, as Kruel J said, a router is a better choice than a drill press, especially a variable speed. The rest of his advice is spot on, as well. Later, and good luck.
 

v0lcom13sn0w

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You’ll have better luck with a router than a drill press. The 5D Tactical is THE jig to get. A bench vise is necessary. So is some cutting oil or other quality lubricant. That and time. Don’t rush or get cocky, it won’t end well. :)
true that!
 

v0lcom13sn0w

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@GOG buy the 5D jig used on here. i see them here from time to time with a router, drill bits and an endmill. it WILL be worth it to pick up a couple extra endmills on amazon for “OH MOTHER...WOOPS”. ive broken a couple end mills in the many 80% lowers ive milled. when youre done, sell the jig!
 

WoodsPlinker

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It's for my gal and it has to be a good gun.
If you mill it then it's likely not going to be transferable to her. Also you want to possibly get pictures of yourself making it in case you have to prove you did indeed make it.

If she wants it she needs to make it. Manufacturing a firearm without a license with the intent to transfer or sell it to someone else even a family member is a good way to tick off the BATF. It falls under the intent to distribute.

Does an individual need a license to make a firearm for personal use? | Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives

I think you can transfer it later as long as the intent of manufacture was originally for yourself. (But don't quote me on that)

I'm thinking of making a pistol, damn builds are addictive.
 
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As long as you don't make a business of it you can sell it, that's how it was explained to me by atf a few years ago.

how do you transfer something that doesn't exist, and has no serial number?
 

deckert

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We used an Easy Jig Gen 2. Could not have been easier or more simple. Three of us went in on the purchase. One guy owned a soft start router we shared that worked perfect. HIGHLY recommend using a small hand held soft start! We also ordered 2 extra end mills for just in case as well as the two side plate guides for drilling the holes. I supplied a super nice set of carbide bits (135 degree split points) that were better than the supplied ones.

1 can of WD40 did 4 builds. Definitely need a GOOD vacum. (Tape all bottom/side air inlets shut to keep max airflow into the vacum) Aluminum chips will hug the end mill like they're statically charged. You'll be wearing some chips before the job is over. Router @ 80% of speed, go slow in clockwise direction to avoid chattering and use 1/16~3/32 depth adjustments. Before changing depth we used canned air to clean the pocket and made 1 more circular pass and blew air with vacum for a clean start. Sprayed the bearing in the guide plate and the end mill before every pass and made a full run without spraying again. Keep the pocket & end mill Clean! Went 1/2 way through the job & quit then restarted the next day on the 1st build. 2nd job took around 1.5 hours because we didn't hurry. 3rd job was around an hour with experience but not forcing or pushing anything. DO NOT force the side plate drill bit holes. Go slow & keep them clean & lubed. Mis-drill those and you'll be buying a new lower.
Finished products near cnc quality.
We used AMT lowers & uppers for two 308's. One AMT lower with Sanders Armory side charger upper for a 5.56
Zero defects & zero issues on the uppers/lowers.

Dan

63bf021.jpg
 
OP
GOG

GOG

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I hate to say this, but a good stripped lower will cost less than all the stuff I have to buy to mill one.
I dunno' this is my only build. Like I said, I don't care for them. The FFLthing isn't an issue, I'm in every registry and log there is.

The whole idea is to build a smaller AR for her to handle. If it turns into IKEA then it's not the same, but I'm still building it with her preferences in mind.
And it's a surprise.

Who makes a good trigger that won't break the bank? I know CMC, but after that I'm lost.

Thank you everybody, this is hugely helpful.
 
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It's not going to be a target gun, right? Try a trigger job a good tutorial is on ar15.com.

make sure you put on the hammer spring right side up:). My first mistake on my first build a long time ago. Get a 4/40 tap ( and a few set screws)and make the safety detent spring captive.
 
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I hate to say this, but a good stripped lower will cost less than all the stuff I have to buy to mill one.
I dunno' this is my only build. Like I said, I don't care for them. The FFLthing isn't an issue, I'm in every registry and log there is.

The whole idea is to build a smaller AR for her to handle. If it turns into IKEA then it's not the same, but I'm still building it with her preferences in mind.
And it's a surprise.

Who makes a good trigger that won't break the bank? I know CMC, but after that I'm lost.

Thank you everybody, this is hugely helpful.
good call

any reason not to run the GI trigger till she gets good enough that the trigger is holding her advancement back ? That's the least expensive and best way to develop trigger skills imo.....
 

Taco_lean

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Just buy a stripped anderson lower.

I am concerned she won't like the shockwave. A hard plastic edge is no super comfortable.

I suggest an SBA3 + splitfix as a solution.

Use the trigger that comes with it, and I would leave it as is. When/if you want to upgrade, just get a geiselle G2s.
 

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