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Geography aside, given it's blue voting habits, Bend is no longer considered 'East Side'.He IS on the east side.
Gotta use the "gangsta lean" over there to compensate.
Correct. I gotta go about 45 minutes east to get to eastern OregonGeography aside, given it's blue voting habits, Bend is no longer considered 'East Side'.
I read that article when it came out a few years back and have mixed feelings. I agree with him that some of the 'regions' and what causes movement there seem strange. I personally haven't identified shooters doing what is in the chart in some of the regions to cause the problem (e.g., 'wrist breaking up' for shooting high...in my experience this is almost always an aiming problem).
Can't really complain about those results.I totally get that my incompetence is the correct answer to this question coming from a random dude in the interwebs 99% of the time. Not even mad.
With that said, I'm not the greatest…I can yip a few here and there, but I'd like to think I'm not totally incompetent when it comes to the press. Pic attached, 210 rds from the 10yd line on 8" paper.
Locking block from a known good shooter installed. Curious to see if it has any effect tomorrow.
View attachment 1999293
Sounds to me like you have one of those über-rare "contract" Glocks, that Glock Corp sub-contracted out to Ruger's Mini-14/30 division to manufacture in order to keep up with demand.Hello all,
New to me Glock has a POI that's 4-5" left of the POA at 15 yards. Anyone else dealt with this before? Barrel is centered in the slide, crown shows no perceptible damage, not sure where to look for the culprit but my ocd would appreciate being able to drift the rear sight back to the center.
Cheers!
I still dont think its the gun.Well…clearly not an issue with the locking block.
Haven't changed triggers in any of my glocks, they're all as they came from glock, but slightly different in terms of break weight. (Some with blank connectors, some with dot connectors, and the problem child with a minus connector).I still dont think its the gun.
But factory Glock triggers arent the best. You mentioned you customized your other Glock triggers so it makes sense you will shoot this stock one different.
One thing you could do is break the edge on the trigger bar and polish it and the connector it will help make the trigger more crisp and maybe lighter.
Johnny Glock has a good video on this, queued up to the process... but the whole video is good.
View: https://youtu.be/OhHtYfuvVbM?si=G0Gly27R0l5qCoLl&t=1147
Ok technically not the trigger [shoe] itself but I may have misunderstood what you meant by "this is the only one with a factory - connector".Haven't changed triggers in any of my glocks, they're all as they came from glock, but slightly different in terms of break weight. (Some with blank connectors, some with dot connectors, and the problem child with a minus connector).
Stock gun, same as all my other glocks, although this is the only one with a factory "-" connector.
It sounds like he needs the "right" connector...Try a "+" connector and I bet it starts shooting right
Shoot it left handed with a "+" connector and it'll shoot left againShoot it left handed and I bet it shoots to the right.
Now were just going in circles...Shoot it left handed with a "+" connector and it'll shoot left again