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Thanks again everyone for your input, but I don't plan on using my M1 for any competition shooting. I want it to be as accurate as possible. PAX
 
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Change the op rod spring, new stainless ones are available for cheap money, the ones that come in the guns are old and usually beat. Hold the spring vertically and see how kinked it is. Dane barrels are sought after for thier accuracy,, if its off a gun i have to wonder why it was removed and how it gauges.
 
It's sad to think of a USGI Garand being modified into a sort of competition custom build project gun. I'd leave it alone and buy an accurized M1A instead. But in the end it is your property to make the choice.
 
If you have USGI furniture on that Garand and you stated that you weren't going to compete, do not accurize it! Leave it as is. If you want to mess around with accurizing get some cheap CMP take off wood to experiment on. Join this forum >>>>> CMP Forums There are a bunch of super knowledgeable folks here that will point you in the right direction as well. Also they have a marketplace similar to our classifieds. A little horse trading there and you can correct your rifle if it's a bit of a mix master or pick up a spare op-rod and springs.
 
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Not exactly apples to apples, my M1 Garand I just received from CMP a few weeks ago with a 1/1 reading, likely the same service grade Springfield selection you got, was hitting steel at 200 yesterday with some pretty underpowered loads I made up just to test her. I think it's a 10" target. You won't know until you shoot if the juice will be worth the squeeze as far as your plans go. Also, they're not built for heavy factory loads of you like your op rod.

I'll second user1234 and say get an M1A. That old Garand deserves to stay as issued
 
If you have USGI furniture on that Garand and you stated that you weren't going to compete, do not accurize it! Leave it as is. If you want to mess around with accurizing get some cheap CMP take off wood to experiment on. Join this forum >>>>> CMP Forums There are a bunch of super knowledgeable folks here that will point you in the right direction as well. Also they have a marketplace similar to our classifieds. A little horse trading there and you can correct your rifle if it's a bit of a mix master or pick up a spare op-rod and springs.

As I mentioned at the start, my M1 was acquired via DMC during the transition to CMP. I got all the correspondence from the original owner. Letters from DMC about sponsorship, then letters of acceptance from CMP, mess of magazines, data sheets, and articles about M1s. The wood is not GI, but it's nicely tiger striped, and I picked up some new Boyd's furniture to mess with. It's my onliest Garand and I intend to proceed with caution.

The fella I acquired the M1 from had been my go to 01 FFL. I've had it 3 years. I've got a few things from him in the past, including an SVT, 2 Romanian SKSs, a couple Marlin/Glenfield 60s, NFA lower, couple .22 pistols, and a ton of ammo. Here's a picture my Winchester Garand with some of my other iron. PAX

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Go with a new recoil and clip latch spring, check to ensure the op rod and gas cylinder are within spec and make sure the timing is good.

With a new stock bedding won't add much if it is tight in the right spots and fit properly.

USGI M1's are 2-3 moa rifles. I have found new USGI barrels are closer to the 2 moa or just under. Anything over 1 ME seems to open the groups, The crown needs to be good for accuracy.

The most accurate M1's I have had were both 308 with commercial barrels. One was full match prepped (bedded, gas cylinder mods, unitized hand-guards) that I got from a member here. The other was just assembled USGI parts with criterion barrel. Both made 1 moa groups from the bench with 5 rounds. The match rifle did 1 1/4 moa with the first 10 round group.
 

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