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I was shooting my Garand today and with my rear sight centered, I was making adjustments to my standard frt sight, in order to get the groups centered. When I finally got it, I noted that my front sight is all the way to the left end of the gas cylinder.

I was thinking (dangerous) that maybe I could file one side of the frt sight to get it thinner and to hopefully end up moving the front sight block back a bit more towards to the center position. As I said, it's now all the way to the left side edge of the gas cylinder (though still on the flat top portion of the gas cylinder's platform).

So, the question is.......

Do I file only the left side of the frt sight blade?
or
Do I file only the right side of the frt sight blade?

I normally tell myself to move the frt sight in the direction of the bullet impacts. But, I've never tried filing the side of a front sight blade to narrow it and to move bullet impacts. Anyone wanna clue me in on how to do this?

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
I'm not sure I understand why you're not adjusting the rear sight?

Collectable or not, filing the front post so it won't be all the way over, makes zero sense if you've not touch the rear sight.
 
The rear sight is now set to mechanical zero. Yes, I know how to adjust the rear sight. However, I have not chosen to do so. Thus far, I've only adjusted the front sight to get the impacts centered.

The standard front sight width of an M1 is about 0.075" by my measurement.
The NM front sight width is 0.062".

I prefer the narrower front sight. I mostly shoot reduced NM targets at 100 yds. The standard front sight is thick and allows for a lot of sight hanging off, left and right, under a 6 o'clock bulls eye hold.

So, being cheap......I wanted to file a bit off the side of the front sight. Perhaps bringing it down to a thickness of 0.062".

And, because the front sight is currently all the way to the left......I figured that I might be able to file only one side of the front sight and maybe I'd also have to end up physically moving the front sight a bit more towards the mechanical center position. Humm.......killing two birds with one stone maybe?

Yes, I realize that I will more than likely not get the front sight all the way to the mechanical center. I don't expect that filing off only 0.013" (from only one side) will accomplish that or maybe not much of anything at all. But in the end, my plan might help. And, I'll still get a front sight of 0.062" without spending the extra money for a NM front sight blade.

So back to the question.......

Do I file only the left side of the frt sight blade?
or
Do I file only the right side of the frt sight blade?

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
Maybe.......if I re-imagined this problem? OK, say that I had non adjustable sights......my rear sight is placed at it's mechanical zero/centered (left and right, evenly) on the receiver and my fat front sight is at it's mechanical zero/centered over the barrel.

And, say that my bullet impacts were a skosh to the left (never mind about the height).......

So, do I file only the left side of the frt sight blade?
or
Do I file only the right side of the frt sight blade?

Yes, I know that given the problem, some people might choose to make the rear sight the subject of filing. But, let's stick to making adjustments to only the front sight in this scenario.

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
If the sight base is moved all the way over, filing off .010-.025 won't make it all better.
Rear sight will have to be moved off zero.

I've heard dremel tools work great for front sight thinning. :s0044:
:)
 
I think I may have found it (from The Smith & Wesson Forum).......

"Filing material off the left side of the front sight effective moves the front sight to the right and filing material off the right side of the front sight effectively moves it to the left. So, for example, if your POI (point of impact) is to the left, and you're obviously wanting to move your POI to the right, you would file off the right side of your front sight because you want to move the front sight the in the opposite direction to which you want to change your POI."

What's that again?

"Filing off the right side of the sight moves the front sight LEFT, which moves the POI RIGHT.
Filing off the left side of the sight moves the front sight RIGHT, which moves the POI LEFT."

And YES, I'm not expecting any miracles of a perfectly centered front sight. Thanks everyone.

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
Methinks you're treating the symptom and not the disease.

I had a similar problem some years back with a custom match M1A rifle.

Turns out the barrel was screwed in a miniscule amount too tight, which canted the front sight a tiny amount to the left. The front sight looked just fine - perpendicular to the bore looking at it through the rear sight. But I had to move the front sight all the way out to the edge of the sight base in order to get it to shoot center with the rear sight at MZ (mechanical zero). It bothered me.

So I took it to a ex-military gunsmith with the proper barrel and action blocks and described the problem to him. He said "no problem". He made a witness mark with a punch on the bottom of the barrel at the barrel/action junction and proceeded to use that to rotate the barrel just the right amount to clear up the problem.

By measuring the physical amount of rear windage needed to shoot zero with the front sight centered, and the diameter of the barrel at the witness mark, and the height of the tip of the front sight over the center of the bore, he was able to calculate the amount of barrel adjustment needed to correct the problem.

Damned clever fellow. He explained the mechanics of the calculation and I remember I understood it then. But alas the sands of time have erased my memory of how it worked.

Anyway, he did and it was nicely successful. Rifle how shoots center with only 1 minute of windage and the front sight centered on the sight base.
 
As Mr Natural stated above, an incorrectly timed barrel will cause this issue.


.......................
 
just because a barrel shoots one way or the other does not mean the barrel isnt properly timed. These are battle rifles not match rifles. This is the reason the front and rear sights are adjustable
 
MrNatural,

Yes, the issue of the "clocking of the barrel" had crossed my mind.

STORY TIME
I once had a newly purchased (though used) short barrel Garand in .308 Winchester that had sight alignment problems. After shooting it a little, I noted that the front sight had to be adjusted so that the front sight had to hang over a bit of the flat portion of the cas cylinder. I thought that all it needed was a better timing of the barrel. So, I had my friend/gunsmith remove and correctly re-install (time) the barrel. Then, I took it out to shoot again. The problem with the front sight sight alignment did not improve. Lucky for me, the seller refunded my money. My guess was that the barrel was bent.

Yes, you could clock the barrel a bit.* That is....if you wouldn't mind a front sight that was "cocked/canted" in relation to the rear sight. Then, yup....upon a quick visual examination (sometimes), a little bit won't be noticed.

Then, there is the issue of wanting a thinner front sight. Not to mention, having access to a gunsmith that will do the re-clocking job for a nominal fee.

Anyway, thanks for your input.

Aloha, Mark

*Caution that headspace should also be re-checked.
 
Last Edited:
With the rear sight centered your front sight moved to one side is not
a problem? It is common to have to move the front sight to center the rear.
Windage adjustment changes if you're shooting left or right handed,
from the bench, or slung into the rifle and shooting prone. If you want
a narrower front sight simply install a NM front sight. Couple different width sights are available.:rolleyes: How is your G-ran shooting?
 
I don't have access to (nor do I KNOW) the exact US ARMY's specs for acceptable M1s. That being said.....

I figure that if I'm shooting M2 ball through my Garand and I center my rear sight and I can still keep my front sight entirely on the gas cylinder without an overhang....then I'm GTG.

Right now, I'm GTG.

Though I figure (dangerous), that it could use a little improvement and a thinner front sight will cost me nothing (only file work).

Speaking of "How is it shooting?"

My eyes ain't what it used to be......seeing the front sight and target clearly enough, even through a peep sight, at 100 yds. is not easy for me anymore. Old age. Yup, it happens. And YES, I've also thought about different corrective lenses. Anyway, I usually use a reduced NRA match target (such as MR-31c, SR-21, or the SR-1) with a 6 o'clock hold. I mostly stick to zeroing in (for windage) at 25 yds and 50 yds. Then, I'll pop off a couple at 100 yds. to confirm things. I figure that IF I can keep them all in the black at 100 yds....I'm GTG.

YES, I'm aware that shooting off the bench isn't the same as shooting prone (or off hand standing, sitting, kneeling, supported/unsupported, whatever....). Unfortunately, the range where I'm shooting at will not let me shoot "in position." Unless, I pass their test (which I haven't bothered to do).

BTW (for those that are unaware).....FREE REDUCED TARGETS can be downloaded here: Targets for Download and Printing within AccurateShooter.com

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
OK, Ok, ok (with my last post, about my eyesight)......it dawned on me.

Maybe, before filing the standard front sight.....I should try a NM front sight with the standard sized rear aperture?

OK. In theory (because it's cut "on center"), the thinner NM front sight will not help much with moving the front sight block more towards it's mechanical center. BUT MAYBE (just as importantly), I might not like, the thinner front sight in combination with the standard rear sight?

Or.....

I might think that it's still a good idea to go with a thinner front sight and standard rear sight?

Yes, I have another match built M1 Garand that I could remove the NM front sight from for this experiment. Humm.....I guess it's a good excuse to take two M1s to the range. LOL.

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
Sounds like you belong to Clark Rifles. Me too.:D I know the "qualification" to shoot
from position is a PITA. Sounds good if you can hold the black on the SR-1
@ 100 yards. For a Rack Grade Garand with ball ammo that is good. IMHO
You have a good sound Garand. If there was something "wrong" with the rifle
it would not hold the black @ 100 yards. Such as worn barrel/muzzle, loose
fitting stock or worn out parts. I have seen a M-1 rifle with a worn muzzle
you couldn't even hit the paper(SR-1) with it at 100 yards?:eek::eek::eek:
Now with better ammo, NM sights, good sling and coat she would easily hold
the "10" ring. Smaller rear NM aperture is a big improvement.;);) I don't
know if you are an old fart like me but I find the narrower front sight gets
harder to see as you get older. A lot of shooters me included have gone to a wider
front sight post on their AR service rifle.:eek:
If you want to qualify to shoot position at Clark I can help. I can loan you an AR set up
with scope and sling to shoot position. Much easier to shoot then a Garand.:rolleyes:
 

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