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I received my much anticipated trigger from Franklin Armory yesterday. This morning I installed it in to a dedicated SEF lower. Overall I'm impressed with the quality and finish of the trigger.

My only complaint so far is with the trigger pack adjustment screw. The screw is meant to raise/lower to get the trigger pack to set correctly in the lower. However it appears that the screw had Locktite applied at the factory and try as I might, I could not get the screw to adjust without fear of stripping it entirely. My solution was to use a Swiss file to remove about 1/16th from the bottom of the screw to get the trigger pack to set correctly.

Once installed, the trigger passed all of the dry fire tests. Later today I will be heading out to the North Fork range to give it a spin.
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SOMETIMES;
For very small thread locked screws or set screws, the application of a little heat will allow it to move.
Obviously, one would want to keep the heat localized.
For this, use a small soldering iron (sans solder) for 4-40 and smaller or a medium size tinning iron for larger screws.
sol1.jpg
I prefer the induction soldering gun all sizes up to 1/4 inch and for a larger range of controllable heat stemming from to how long and how often you pull the trigger:
sol2.jpg
Nyloc style thread lock will usually reset if you don't overkill them but many adhesive thread lockers may require removal of the screw , clean, and reset with new Loctite or similar gumbo.

for 1/4 inch plus, the pinpoint handheld butane torch works well though a cooling period may be required to allow expanded metal to shrink and slacken up some before allowing to be turned. Also likely to alter many finishes:

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Yeah I tried that first.....it helped some but still took more effort than i felt comfortable applying to get a turn....no luck. After I put this through a test run I'll probably send it back and ask Franklin to replace the screw.

E
 
It takes 500-600 deg to get red loctite to release.... If you got it that hot and it did not let go then I would say sending it back would be warranted
 
Yeah I tried that first.....it helped some but still took more effort than i felt comfortable applying to get a turn....no luck. After I put this through a test run I'll probably send it back and ask Franklin to replace the screw.

E
Likely a smart move, many times I wished I had been more patient to let Kroil or heat do its thing before giving some fastener that last fateful twist of death!
 
These are the two videos that originally gave me the idea for this project firearm.



This was the result....and probably as close as I will ever get without spending $40k large.

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Last Edited:
Good Morning Nehalemguy!
I just found your video for the FA trigger for HKs. Would you mind telling me what you thought of the trigger pull itself? How does the actual trigger pull / weight feel compared to the stock trigger? Forums claim that the original trigger is around 8lbs and Franklin claims that their trigger is 4.5lbs. What are your thoughts? Trigger jobs on HKs claim to bring the weight down to 4-5lbs and if this can do the same and comes with a fun switch, I'd rather do this. :D I'd appreciate any comparison between this and the factory pull or even a trigger job if you have experience with that.
Have a great day and thanks for your time!
-Ded
 
Good Morning Nehalemguy!
I just found your video for the FA trigger for HKs. Would you mind telling me what you thought of the trigger pull itself? How does the actual trigger pull / weight feel compared to the stock trigger? Forums claim that the original trigger is around 8lbs and Franklin claims that their trigger is 4.5lbs. What are your thoughts? Trigger jobs on HKs claim to bring the weight down to 4-5lbs and if this can do the same and comes with a fun switch, I'd rather do this. :D I'd appreciate any comparison between this and the factory pull or even a trigger job if you have experience with that.
Have a great day and thanks for your time!
-Ded

Well.......its probably time for a update anyway.

My original trigger developed a bad habit of full auto fire when it was in the semi auto mode.

Binary mode worked fine, but in semi mode it would fire off a 4-5 round burst and then end up with a dead hammer sitting on a live round. Since I have no desire to have a federally sponsored vacation at Sheridan, I sent it back to Franklin immediately.

Initially I think Franklin was skeptical of my malfunction claim. They called and asked a series of questions that gave me the impression that this issue was unique in the short history of the HK trigger . I told them "Just install it in one of your guns and try it" which they then did. Two days later I had a new trigger in my mailbox. :D

As for the trigger pull....yes it is greatly improved over the factory HK and MKE triggers. I also think my replacement trigger has a cleaner pull than my original. So far the replacement has performed as advertised.

Currently I am waiting approval on a Form 1 to SBR a MKE Z5RS. I think the trigger will reside exclusively in that firearm since it seems best suited to that caliber.



E
 
Well.......its probably time for a update anyway.

My original trigger developed a bad habit of full auto fire when it was in the semi auto mode.

Binary mode worked fine, but in semi mode it would fire off a 4-5 round burst and then end up with a dead hammer sitting on a live round. Since I have no desire to have a federally sponsored vacation at Sheridan, I sent it back to Franklin immediately.

Initially I think Franklin was skeptical of my malfunction claim. They called and asked a series of questions that gave me the impression that this issue was unique in the short history of the HK trigger . I told them "Just install it in one of your guns and try it" which they then did. Two days later I had a new trigger in my mailbox. :D

As for the trigger pull....yes it is greatly improved over the factory HK and MKE triggers. I also think my replacement trigger has a cleaner pull than my original. So far the replacement has performed as advertised.

Currently I am waiting approval on a Form 1 to SBR a MKE Z5RS. I think the trigger will reside exclusively in that firearm since it seems best suited to that caliber.
E

That's fantastic. It's funny that they would be skeptical before trying to reproduce your claim. I'm happy you received a new and functioning trigger pack and it sounds like it may be an improvement. Thank you for your update!
-Ded
 
Smokes! 7 bills, plus a buck and a quarter for install? Sticker shock here. In the late 80s, I paid today's equivalent of $950 ($444) for a new 91 A2. I know the trigger is limited production, finely crafted and made in the US, but dang...
 
Smokes! 7 bills, plus a buck and a quarter for install? Sticker shock here. In the late 80s, I paid today's equivalent of $950 ($444) for a new 91 A2. I know the trigger is limited production, finely crafted and made in the US, but dang...

If you play HK you're going to pay.

I didn't pay quite that much since I purchased one pre release. Also you can use the ejector and associated parts from your existing trigger pack so you don't need to spend another $125 unless you are running a ambidextrous trigger housing.

E
 
Fortunately, I bought HK when they were only interesting and slightly expensive. The Binary is probably illegal in WA anyway. For the price of that trigger, I'm half way to what I wanted in the first place, a .308 AR platform. Blew one 91-A2 up when a case head let go. Bulged the sides of the receiver out. Long ago and lesson learned but I kinda lost a bit of confidence in them. Still have the replacement A2 though.
 

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