Forster case trimmer help - trying to setup the power drill adapter

[Lasers]

So I ordered and just received, from Forster, their drill adapter. The instructions say you just screw off the crank handle, counter clockwise.

When I cranked that way, I got no give and the piston just rotated with the crank handle.

I used some rubber gloves and a rubber padded vice grip to hold it in place while "unscrewing" but nothing was happening, I was able to "break free" and get counter clock motion with the piston remaining still, but it wasn't unscrewing.

I gave it a wiggle and it came free, but crank is smooth, not threaded. The threaded adapter will not fit as is.

It might be a threaded sleeve that got stuck on the crank shaft?

Any ideas?

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[thorborg]

The best coarse would be to contact Forster first to see what they recommend.
If dissatisfied with that route;
From what little there is to see. I'm guessing you have a case trimmer whos shaft was made before the power adapter concept was available, If that is the case, and the threads on the power adapter are of a lessor diameter, it could be drilled out to shaft size then tap a set screw hole to mate with the flat on the shaft. (use the set screw from the handle) It will be sans Key from the "D" hole the handle had, but should still give good service with a tight set screw and a little locktite on the shaft. In the unlikelyhood the thing was heat treated you may need to anneal it before drilling (If no torch, a camp stove burner can do that). If by measuring, you expect there be a goodly amount of threads left in the hole after drilling, I would degrease and fill the threads with a minimal amount of JB weld (let set several days before drilling) to maximize support. On the other hand, if the threads are much larger than the shaft, filling and drilling a concentric center may be a challenge with the usual tools available to the average handy person. you could get lucky though.
As a last resort, though you will be missing the convivence of the quick disconnect of the hex adapter, If you are using an actual drill with a chuck to power your trimmer, you may be able to chuck right on the threadless nub (keeping the jaws off the flat) though a little support for the drill when your hands are not on it might be appropriate. .
Good luck.

 

[DizzyJ]

Hard to tell from the picture, but is that a solid piece or is it possibly still screwed on up to the shoulder junction?

 

[Lasers]

That's what I'm wondering too @DizzyJ

It kind of looks like the crank handle had a threaded sleeve that stayed on the threads. I'll try for a better pic and see if I cant get it to move with some gentle vice grips

 

[Lasers]

The best coarse would be to contact Forster first to see what they recommend.
If dissatisfied with that route;
From what little there is to see. I'm guessing you have a case trimmer whos shaft was made before the power adapter concept was available, If that is the case, and the threads on the power adapter are of a lessor diameter, it could be drilled out to shaft size then tap a set screw hole to mate with the flat on the shaft. (use the set screw from the handle) It will be sans Key from the "D" hole the handle had, but should still give good service with a tight set screw and a little locktite on the shaft. In the unlikelyhood the thing was heat treated you may need to anneal it before drilling (If no torch, a camp stove burner can do that). If by measuring, you expect there be a goodly amount of threads left in the hole after drilling, I would degrease and fill the threads with a minimal amount of JB weld (let set several days before drilling) to maximize support. On the other hand, if the threads are much larger than the shaft, filling and drilling a concentric center may be a challenge with the usual tools available to the average handy person. you could get lucky though.
As a last resort, though you will be missing the convivence of the quick disconnect of the hex adapter, If you are using an actual drill with a chuck to power your trimmer, you may be able to chuck right on the threadless nub (keeping the jaws off the flat) though a little support for the drill when your hands are not on it might be appropriate. .
Good luck.

Thanks for writing this out. Good ideas. I took your advice and emailed Forster, hopefully they recognize the issue

 

[Idaho44]

Shaft of the cutter should have threads. Yours does not and would have to have threads cut if possible, otherwise a new cutter shaft is needed. The crank handle on mine has no 'sleeve' and it is an older but not the oldest model.

 

[jbett98]

What are you using to power the trimmer?

 

[Lasers]

Shaft of the cutter should have threads. Yours does not and would have to have threads cut if possible, otherwise a new cutter shaft is needed. The crank handle on mine has no 'sleeve' and it is an older but not the oldest model.

That helps. I probably have an older model as well that doesn't have the threaded cutter shaft.

 

[Lasers]

What are you using to power the trimmer?

I planned to use a 10V Ryobi, it has the quick change socket type end. Figured a 20V Dewalt would be overkill

 

[BillM]

My Forster is a bit over 40 years old--and it has a threaded shaft but it appears that there were some without?
From the Forster website----

 

[Lasers]

Hmm, that might help. Definitely got the PA1000, I wonder if I need one of those other parts to make it work. Supposed to speak with a technician this afternoon.

 

[Lasers]

More pics. It looks to me like my version didn't have threads, the flat edge on the shafy receiver end for the set screw on the crank is the big clue.

Oddly enough the crank handle had no set screw, I think it was just set in place by father time

 

[DizzyJ]

That sucks. Did you get ahold of Forster?

 

[Lasers]

Talked to a tech today, but he said he'd have to follow up with me because he wasn't sure what I was referencing.