- Messages
- 4,913
- Reactions
- 12,782
So I shoot Speed Steel at TriCounty. I started with an XDM45 and decided the guys with the 10/22s were having more fun so I got one at BiMart and shot it a bit asking everyone what upgrades to make...
Number one comment was change the trigger before anything else. Sounded reasonable, so I researched and there are about 8 or 10 good choices. All were $200-250 except for the factory replacement BX trigger which was (is) on sale at BiMart for $60. Nothing flashy in bright brushed aluminium, but goodish reviews over all.
Well let me tell you that if you ever decide to install a BX trigger, there is ONE thing you want to do before you even touch the plastic it comes in. DO NOT TOUCH IT. In fact I suggest you get your spouse or child or friend to buy it for you and carry it to you so that you don't touch it in the package.
Wrapped around the replacement trigger housing is a gray gizmo that snaps over the housing from back to front where it clips. Its purpose is to stop the hammer from falling if you accidentally or non-accidentally dry fire the trigger which, of course, everyone does to test the trigger.
THAT GRAY COVER IS SUPER IMPORTANT
The instructions tell you it is important. I can confirm that Ruger's lawyers were not having a hissy fit, it is indeed important.
If you dry fire the trigger housing when the clip is off and the assembly is NOT in the receiver, the hammer over extends and you can't pull it back without removing the hammer from the assembly, re aligning it, and then re-inserting it into the housing.
Well that'd be fine, but the same problem happens when you are removing the gray clip. If you unclip the ends and move it to the rear and accidentally pull the trigger, the hammer goes down, won't come back up and now blocks the gray gizmo on the trigger housing in your hand.
After careful consideration, I cut the gray gizmo in half without damaging the trigger assembly and removed it. However, being new to Rugers, I had no idea that all the roll pins were a size small so that they all fell out the side of the assembly and I suddenly had a handful of parts all over the table and n-1 roll pins to put them back together.
Now YouTube.
After an hour of watching people do a range of asshattery to their 10/22s I figured that I could fix this.
All I needed to do was canabalize the original assembly and pull a pin there.
Well it worked... sort of... The trigger is in. The new one, and visually you can't tell it from the old one. (VERY important to keep them separate!) The trigger works and it feels pretty nice. No gauge but I think it is close to the 2.5-3# they claim. Everything back in one rifle.
Total time 7 hours of fiddling with the springs and pins and turning to put in another pin and having the last pin fall out. Now. Sitting here. I have to say use some scotch tape if you need to on the pins to keep them in.
Point of the story is READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. NEVER TOUCH THE ACTUAL TRIGGER of the new assembly till it is in the reciever. BE CAREFUL OF PINS FALLING OUT. Plan extra time and be sure YouTube is working.
That is all.
Number one comment was change the trigger before anything else. Sounded reasonable, so I researched and there are about 8 or 10 good choices. All were $200-250 except for the factory replacement BX trigger which was (is) on sale at BiMart for $60. Nothing flashy in bright brushed aluminium, but goodish reviews over all.
Well let me tell you that if you ever decide to install a BX trigger, there is ONE thing you want to do before you even touch the plastic it comes in. DO NOT TOUCH IT. In fact I suggest you get your spouse or child or friend to buy it for you and carry it to you so that you don't touch it in the package.
Wrapped around the replacement trigger housing is a gray gizmo that snaps over the housing from back to front where it clips. Its purpose is to stop the hammer from falling if you accidentally or non-accidentally dry fire the trigger which, of course, everyone does to test the trigger.
THAT GRAY COVER IS SUPER IMPORTANT
The instructions tell you it is important. I can confirm that Ruger's lawyers were not having a hissy fit, it is indeed important.
If you dry fire the trigger housing when the clip is off and the assembly is NOT in the receiver, the hammer over extends and you can't pull it back without removing the hammer from the assembly, re aligning it, and then re-inserting it into the housing.
Well that'd be fine, but the same problem happens when you are removing the gray clip. If you unclip the ends and move it to the rear and accidentally pull the trigger, the hammer goes down, won't come back up and now blocks the gray gizmo on the trigger housing in your hand.
After careful consideration, I cut the gray gizmo in half without damaging the trigger assembly and removed it. However, being new to Rugers, I had no idea that all the roll pins were a size small so that they all fell out the side of the assembly and I suddenly had a handful of parts all over the table and n-1 roll pins to put them back together.
Now YouTube.
After an hour of watching people do a range of asshattery to their 10/22s I figured that I could fix this.
All I needed to do was canabalize the original assembly and pull a pin there.
Well it worked... sort of... The trigger is in. The new one, and visually you can't tell it from the old one. (VERY important to keep them separate!) The trigger works and it feels pretty nice. No gauge but I think it is close to the 2.5-3# they claim. Everything back in one rifle.
Total time 7 hours of fiddling with the springs and pins and turning to put in another pin and having the last pin fall out. Now. Sitting here. I have to say use some scotch tape if you need to on the pins to keep them in.
Point of the story is READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. NEVER TOUCH THE ACTUAL TRIGGER of the new assembly till it is in the reciever. BE CAREFUL OF PINS FALLING OUT. Plan extra time and be sure YouTube is working.
That is all.
, BTW!!!
