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A lot of the Ti etc. models have a blast shield thingy.. probably be nice on like a magnum used with hot 110's and stuff..

325pd_r.jpg
 
Yes. It would have been nice if it had the small shield like they use in there Scandium frame guns.
I guess I have one of the few that doesn't have one of those plates but I mainly shoot it with mid-range lead handloads and save the "hot" stuff for the bad people.
lol
no cutting at all, thankfully
 
I guess I have one of the few that doesn't have one of those plates but I mainly shoot it with mid-range lead handloads and save the "hot" stuff for the bad people.
lol
no cutting at all, thankfully

Now that you mention it. I have a 342 [.38] pre-lock with Titanium cylinder and no blast shield.
Always figure it was because it didn't have a scandium frame like the magnums? :s0153:
 
Now that you mention it. I have a 342 [.38] pre-lock with Titanium cylinder and no blast shield.
Always figure it was because it didn't have a scandium frame like the magnums? :s0153:
I have a pre-lock 342 AirLite Ti too.. I'm not worried about it as I mainly shoot mid-range (+P level) lead and no signs of cutting at all..
good lord it's filthy though.. better clean
 
For some strange reason, I find that little .45 auto kind of sexy! LOL
No kidding.. that thing is awesome. Back when I was a kid I CC'd a 4" M-29 (the ammo weighed more than my 342 probably).. and while still a wide lunk, at least that .45 would be a light dream to carry in comparison.. with light ammo especially.. lol
 
I was originally thinking some one had taken a grinder burr to that, but I can see where it may be burning! Do you know what the frame is made of? Unless it's some exotic alloy, I would think you could have it TIG welded up and then have the cylinder gap tightened up a skosh! While your in there, have that forcing cone polished up a bit too!:D

The close up of the forcing cone is ugly!
Must be a Friday at 3 PM gun? Or a Hard hungover Monday? :D
 
That's what I was thinking! LIGHT and handy! Loaded up with some 165 gr. Remington GoldenSabers, that would be one hell of a wheel gun! I feel a tingle "Down There":D:p:D
Unless I actually lived in Alaska (I used to live in bear country Montana) I'd prefer one of those over the Scandium .44 magnum.. even though I reload, a box of practice .45's is pretty cheap and you can load them pretty darn heavy if needed.
 
Yup! I regret selling my Dan Wesson .44 and the awesome Air Weight .44 that replaced it! Damn, sold them both, biggest mistake I made! Now I don't have any good wheel guns to fill that nitch!
 
I'm interested to see how S&W responds.
As you are probably aware, Aluminum is one of those things that "work fatigues", and when it goes, it ruptures rather than breaks.
I've shot worse, and had hot powder in my face as a lesson. YMMV.
 
Barrel gap is still okay at .008, .006 is recommended as perfect. I think .012 is where you really start blowing the hair back on the guy in the next lane. :D

http://www.friedmanhandguntraining.com/Gun_Maintenance/S&W_revolver_inspection.pdf

Barrel-to-cylinder gap: The ideal B/C gap is .006". A close gap will cause the cylinder to drag when fouled from shooting residue. A wide gap will loose muzzle velocity and may spit particles. The normal usable range is from .004~.010" Hold the cylinder to the rear and insert the thickest gap gauge that will fit between the cylinder face and the rear of the barrel (with friction). This will be the B/C gap.

I've got to figure that gun of yours has had a butt-load of rounds through it. Either that or that "Alloy" isn't much in the way of durable. I had a Smith that I didn't buy new and had to send in. It was reasonable, but not free. They paid shipping both ways, thankfully. Sending it yourself, better take the lube and prepare to bend over. Been there done that.
 

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