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PS Since an ideal distance from the chrony is about ten feet, it's easy to shoot the chrony body with a scoped rifle. Don't ask me how I know. While it's ideal to shoot just a few inches over the chrony's body sensors, it's not ideal to shoot the chrony, LOL.

I've seen a few chronographs that suffered at the hands of shooters with a scoped rifle. I have a simple and not too expensive solution. I bought one of the inexpensive Laser Bore Sighters that sell for around $25. As a "Bore Sighter" they're "so-so" but when used to see where the bullet will pass over the sensors of a chronograph they're great. I set my rifle up on the "bags", align it with my target, and put the bore sighter in the muzzle. With it turned on, I set up my chronograph. The laser "dot" shows where the bullet will go regardless of my line of signt. My Chronograph is a PACT XP Professional (printer and IR sensors) which uses some plastic screen supports which also double as glare guards from side light flashes. I've made some lexan screens that I put between the supports with circles in the sweet spot for the sensors. They slip in quickly, allow me to see the dot while adjusting the tripod, and slip out real quick. Total setup time for the tripod and sensors is about 1 minute. Unlike the "Shooting Chrony's" the "brains" of the Pact Chronograph are back at the shooting table. Even if one were to hit a sensor it's a $25 repair part. Almost cheap enough to have a spare on hand.
 
deadshot2, I can understand why you use the chrony the way you do, and I respect that. But, in my case, after I bought my first chrony, when developing new loads, I'd never leave it home. First, the novelty. Second, I was eager to learn what the actual chrony capabilities and limitations are, and you know, how perfect they are not. Thirdly, the more data you gather, the more you understand the interrelationship between case fill, powder charges, powder burn rates, bullet weights, calibers, seating depth, crimp, etc. and their effect over average muzzle velocity and spread.

If something goes very unexpectedly wrong, as sometimes it happens, even to the experienced shooter/reloader, the additional data can save the day at the range. For instance, if you are working up a load on totally new-for-you rifle, caliber, powder, bullet, and you get vertical stringing, but you did not bring the chrony with you, you start to wonder if barrel was not as good as expected (float issue?), or spread is too wide or will take longer than expected for the barrel to cool down.

This is only a generic example for a generic advise. There are a number of factors, variables, that will influence your decision about using a chrony. As I said, over time Davef will get a good idea of what data he needs to gather and record, and will adjust methodology according to his reloading/shooting goals.
 
civilian75, while we use our chronographs differently I doubt we disagree much on their value. I've just found that one can all to often get "deafened by the noise of excessive data" (to steal a line from "Charlie" on the TV show Numbers).

What's truly annoying to me is having a particular load have a low, single digit, ES, SD, and MAD, number and still not be accurate. Especially when other loads that don't look as good on the chrony shoot nice little "bug holes" at 100 yards. Go figure. Another case of Logic being defied.

Totally agree about using a chronograph to avoid surprises. Some cases and primers won't give one enough warning of overpressure but a speed that's way above published speeds just might.
 
My #1 priority for my chrony is to get the bullet speed right. I don't want overpowered or underpowered loads. I don't want 55gr AR 5.56 rounds in LC brass traveling at the speed of .223's. I'd rather have 1 1/2 MOA at full speed than 1 moa at wimpy speed, although by trying different powders I can get it all.

Since I know my AR is good and fires factory rounds well, if I can't get the same on a reload, I need to change powders or primers or both, but usually just powder. I'm fortunate to be able to test rounds at home, so I load 5 and try them.

After all, once I figure out the load which will match factory in speed and accuracy, I just stick with it, testing only when I get a new batch of powder. Once I find the right formula, I buy primers and powder in bulk and lot #. I've never found significant differences in lot #'s.
 
Old thread; but I had the same issue with not cycling the slide when I loaded using Lymann's 49th low end powder charge for Bullseye on 115gr. RN Berry's. I now take their high number and reduce by 5% and call it good, and everything works fine. No problems with any of my loadings since then.
 

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