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Since you are "Mr. Authentic", why not just order some 2.5" brass hulls (Cowboy action stuff) and roll your own and be done with it?
I have been tempted at times to get into reloading...I have done so in the past.
But to be honest...it really just doesn't interest me.

With that said...
Shooting does interest me...and if the only way to get to shooting is through reloading...
Well I should get into reloading....:D
Andy
 
I have been tempted at times to get into reloading...I have done so in the past.
But to be honest...it really just doesn't interest me.

With that said...
Shooting does interest me...and if the only way to get to shooting is through reloading...
Well I should get into reloading....:D
Andy

WTF? You're a muzzleloader, you reload every time you fire the damn thing, remember?
 
So I have this older single shot shotgun.
It is not marked as to maker , gauge or chamber length.

It is marked :
"Nitro Hunter" on the left hand side of the receiver...
"Belknap Hardware & MFG. CO. on the right side of the receiver...
"Reinforced Breech" and "Choke Bored" on the barrel near the breech...
And the # 7 on the lower receiver tang.

It is not a damascus barrel.

Found from looking at books and the internet...
I think it may be a version of the Hopkins and Allen 3612 single shot shotgun .
Which was made from 1915 - 1930 depending on what source you use.
I also know that it is in 12 gauge.

In any event....
I do not have a chamber length measurement device....is there any way to measure the chamber length without one...?

Also....
If it measures out to 2 3/4 all I will shoot from it is light field and target loads....as they are still cheap and fairly easy to find.
I have found some online sources for 2 and 2 1/2 inch shells as well as the Aquila "mini shells" , they make a 7 1/2 bird shot load...
I am hoping that this gun will make for a vintage grouse gun.

Thanks for any help here.
Andy
Made by H.&D. Folsom aka Cresent Firearms Co. in Norwich or possibly Hopkins and Allen, CT and "nitro" hunter means meant for smokeless powder but not heavy loads as most loads were black powder or what are considered target loads now. I would say it is most likely 2.5" and the 1.75" aguila, Federal, or challenger from canada shot shells would all be a good start, if ya was closer I would give ya some. Read several places but below link had alot and didnt read it all but some of the same info as several others.


1614195633462.png
 
WTF? You're a muzzleloader, you reload every time you fire the damn thing, remember?
"Reloading" with black powder , patch and ball...is a lot more forgiving than reloading with smokeless in a self contained cartridge...:D

I have reloaded before with both smokeless and black powder cartridge shells....Just really wasn't any fun for me.
But if the online sources for the shorter shells dry up or become too expensive...I'll have to get back into reloading.
Andy
 
Andy, a roll crimp for a drill and a shell holder are all you really need to get back into 12g reloading. That's how I load 12g these days. I buy already primed cases (sadly sold out everywhere now but usually readily available), as it's not a hazmat order somehow when primers are inserted into cases, and use a powder spoon with homemade wads. I make some low recoil 2" loads this way for my hand cannon and that old single shot.

The preprimed hulls can be trimmed to any length.

 
Andy, a roll crimp for a drill and a shell holder are all you really need to get back into 12g reloading. That's how I load 12g these days. I buy already primed cases (sadly sold out everywhere now but usually readily available), as it's not a hazmat order somehow when primers are inserted into cases, and use a powder spoon with homemade wads. I make some low recoil 2" loads this way for my hand cannon and that old single shot.

The preprimed hulls can be trimmed to any length.

I like that idea...thank you...:D
Andy
 
Understand this first.

If you're up to it.

If NOT....leave it to your gunsmith.

Aloha, Mark

PS.....you might have already been aware of the information in the first video. I only mentioned it because I once sold a Winchester 1897 and I wasn't sure of the chamber size. I recommended that he have the chamber size checked as it wasn't (as I recall) printed on the barrel.
Later, the buyer returned to tell me that he had it checked and now he loves to slam fire that old SG.:s0115:

IMHO....being that your SG is old. And mind you that I'm not actually looking at it (there might just be a "problem" with it). But a 2 3/4" chamber is GOOD ENOUGH.
 
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Is there any kind of chamber casting substitute such as modeling clay or? What is the widely accepted way to measure I wonder? I remember researching this a bit on the German hunting guns forum I think it was and it was universally stated not to use a shotgun shell as a measuring method. The reason being some will "fit" even though the chamber was actually 2 9/16" etc. I don't know anything about it, just passing along what some knowledgeable ppl were saying.

FYI also this site has tons of various 2 1/2" and similar shells. Sounds like they are down for the moment to catch up but I was very impressed with the variety of loads (and various powder charges) they had for now obsolete shell lengths. Prices seemed reasonable to me also. U may already know all about this just passing it along. http://www.rstshells.com/store/m/2-12-Gauge.aspx
 
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Gonna ask a dumb question. Couldn't you use a skinny ruler and slide it down the bore walls until it contacts something? Is there even a ledge to contact? I'm guessing this won't work because nobody else brought it up
 
I am not entirely familiar with the process of loading brass shotshells, but from what I can recall reading, it is not a complicated process and the crimp is merely a hard roll crimp only on the edge that keeps the forward (shot retaining) wad in place. I think hand tools exist for it (kinda like an old Lyman tool).

With 10 shells loaded up and just a single shot to digest them you could do a lot of quail hunting. Black powder would be the icing on the cake.
I am lobbying hard for you to be the guinea pig and teach us how its done.
It'd beat the hell outta U-tube.:cool:
P2250375.JPG
 
As stated a shotgun chamber leaves room for the crimped portion of the hull to blow forward during firing. It's possible to chamber 3-inch shells in a 2 3/4 chamber. Firing in this situation could be messy!

Take a very straight section of wire, like from a hanger, and slide it into the chamber riding the chamber wall.

You can then find the stepped down section where the chamber ends and measure how far the rod is inserted.
 
So I have this older single shot shotgun.
It is not marked as to maker , gauge or chamber length.

It is marked :
"Nitro Hunter" on the left hand side of the receiver...
"Belknap Hardware & MFG. CO. on the right side of the receiver...
"Reinforced Breech" and "Choke Bored" on the barrel near the breech...
And the # 7 on the lower receiver tang.

It is not a damascus barrel.

Found from looking at books and the internet...
I think it may be a version of the Hopkins and Allen 3612 single shot shotgun .
Which was made from 1915 - 1930 depending on what source you use.
I also know that it is in 12 gauge.

In any event....
I do not have a chamber length measurement device....is there any way to measure the chamber length without one...?

Also....
If it measures out to 2 3/4 all I will shoot from it is light field and target loads....as they are still cheap and fairly easy to find.
I have found some online sources for 2 and 2 1/2 inch shells as well as the Aquila "mini shells" ,
they make a 7 1/2 bird shot load...
I am hoping that this gun will make for a vintage grouse gun.

Thanks for any help here.
Andy
Nitro Hunter was a name used by that Hardware store and you're right, the gun was made by Hopkins and Allen, also by Crescent Firearms.
Probably dates from around WWI.
It is safe to use with modern powders. Thus the "Nitro..." name.
Not sure on shell length, but all the variations I know of, from that time, are within 1/4".
Most singles (and some doubles!) transition so smoothly from chamber to barrel, I don't think it will make much difference, but if it concerns you enough, go ahead with the shorter shells.
If I find anything more out about that, I will update.

Dean
 
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I had an old Iver Johnson .410 2 1/2" shotgun that I would shoot 3" shells in, it just stretched out the crimped plastic of the shell case. so if you shoot a 2 3/4" shell in your gun inspect the end of the spent shell for stretching and you will know if it's a 2 1/2" gun as stated above the crimped end needs to expand. I don't think there is any reason to fear the gun blowing up as the shot and wad will compress to let the shot out, a slug would be dangerous if it was used in too short of a chamber.
 
You have a gun/skeet club in your area?
Surely they would have an armorer associated with the club.
Probably see's/works on a lot of shotguns.
He'd probably like seeing your old blaster.
 
Andy if I was closer I could turn a piece of aluminum rod on my lathe the exact diameter of a 12ga shell. you could then drop it into the chamber and even if the transition is tapered the no go gauge would show the length.

If you can not resolve this soon let me know I would be glad to turn you a No go gauge so to speak and mail it to you.
 
My goal is to use this gun as a grouse gun....if I can't use Aquila....then Gamebore and RST both make 2 and 2 1/2 shells loaded to a lower pressure for vintage guns....I can find them online and they ain't too expensive...

But if it is safe to do so...I'd rather use 2 3/4 shells as they are easier to find locally.
Andy
@Reno ... I use Polywad loads in my old 1911 Ithaca Flues sxs 20 ga. Great for grouse and quail.

Vintager Shells | Polywad Manufacturing, LLC
 

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